yeah, I bought my corolla SR5 for $600 and it's great

185s work well in the slow

and I like it because I can beat the crap out of it without feeling bad.. because it was $600

 

$600 is three TIIs!!

 

i need help!

anyone have a haltech e6k?

i need to see if my ecu works so i would like test my e6k in your car. please help if you can.. i need this done asap.

mike

 

Nevermind that one was wrecked with an N/A engine; one was a parts car, also wrecked; and the other was actually $250 instead of $200.

I'm gonna float right in the $1500 neighborhood. Below $1000 and 90% of the time it needs quite a bit of work. Above $2000 and it's too rich for my blood.

All of my vehicles have been right in that neighborhood.

 

yeah... I also neglected to mention that my corolla took over $700 to get it passed inspection

so technically it was totalled when I got it/ I got it for $1300ish

 

But after that $1300, DangerDoom helped you get that sweet ride.

 

DangerDoom for America!

 

heh...even with a vehicle running me around $4k, i'd probably have bad luck with it. that seems to be the story of my life when it comes to vehicles.

i'm absolutely enamored with the scoob, though. i've ALWAYS loved the GC8 body, so i went nuts when Bo said he was selling his for such a low price. i mean hell...that car, with that work done to it, could EASILY fetch $10k. the price is right, and everything works...and works reliably. i'd be a fool to pass it up.

 

funny...this car's going to cost me right around $1500 all told...after the corolla's sold, that is. the loan is merely a float to get me in that car, so i can clean out the corolla and get rid of it.

 

Not having a car payment makes you beat the crap out of it a little harder unless it's a 7.

 

Throw out your stock ECU! Cold solder joints and fixed fuel maps are for suckers!

 

Unless the car is registered to your buisness and you can right off the payment, intrest, maint, oil, gas, and mods.

In those cases its a very good decision to get a really good CPA. There is nothing like beating a car that you are getting free from the IRS.

 

Bleh.

The TII only fails inspection because of the reverese switch

A part that was discontinued six months ago, according to Ray Crowe at Malloy Mazda.

ARRGHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

the big thing that plugs into the tranny that tells the reverse lights when to switch on? mine is broken too but my inspection people didn't say anything

 

Yeh, I grabbed another one and IT was broken.

I am not happy.

 

mine is broke on the vert turbo aswell.

 

I'm gonna have to buy a whole stack of these.

 

take it apart and see what's wrong with it then.

 

remind me again why i bought a manual???


so i picked up the RS today from Bo. yey...finally.


it's a great car. i LOVE this car. it, however, is hating me right now. i picked it up at 08:30 this morning, and spent the day trying to get everything done to put it in my name. i drove(and stalled and stalled and stalled) an hour and a half from Silver Spring to Baltimore, got her inspected, drove(and stalled) my way to my work, so i could get my loan check from the in-house credit union(confusing, i know, don't ask...), and drove(and stalled and stalled) home. i never did get to the DMV to get tags on it...bleh.


i haven't driven a manual in over a year and a half, back when i had my 3.1L Z24...and that was a ginormous piece of crap.




i'm so tired i could collapse...but i get to drive(and stall and stall) in rush hour traffic to get to the fiance's house for his birthday. someone shoot me, please...

 

Turn up the idle

 

Fixed

 

Subie's are a PITA sometimes... my '98 LGT was "interesting" to get going at times. It takes a little getting used to get a good start. Hell, I'm on my second LGT and sometimes it makes me feel like I'm learning to drive stick, I've driven stick from age 15.

BTW, it's worse in the winter. No one seems to have a straight answer as to WHY, but it chatters like hell in the winter.

Also, IIRC, you have a '98 with DOHC's? If you ever need help with a timing belt I'm somewhat of a pro at changing them... best time was 1.5 hours (go me). Not sure if you ever heard about **the leak**. The one that ALWAYS, just a matter of time, will happen between the oil pump and engine block. If it hasn't been fixed yet it's coming at some point. No expensive to DIY but just a PITA.

Anyway... great weather today, to bad it's supposed to rain all weekend.

 

KEM automotive electrical parts has a replacement for it I don't remember the part number, but I have a friend that works at PAPA who found it for me the last time I needed it.

Let me know and I can probably get it for you.

 

It's one of those oddities of life that I've never bought a car from a dealer, and never bought a house from a real estate agent (I've owned 3) I've never bought a car that cost me more than $3500 - OK, the RX7 cost $3K and I had to put about $2500 into it , but that's different

I figure I put $1K/year into each car to keep it on the road - basically treat it like a car payment (budget wise) - my 86 ford van has 209K miles

Anybody want a 85 Chevy short schoolbus that needs some work? It runs OK, but has an exhaust manifold leak, needs a new radiator, and burns a quart of oil every 300 miles (about a 2 cycle mix we figure )

 

it's a 99...SOHC. she passed inspection with flying colors, and there were no leaks.

i'm going to be bugging Hill over at Agile Auto if we can't get her moving.