pic of the head or GTFO

 

I'm getting closer to tearing down my 20B for a port job and rebuild. I want to make 300rwhp NA. Gtorx7, are your RE templates what I should get?

Do they have primary and secondary?

What's your advice on the exhaust ports?

Thanks.

 

All this time and still no video of this car in action. I've been very curious about how it sounds. Please get up a video.

 

Any updates? I'm keen on a similar setup for my SE.

I know this is a typical question, but whats an estimate for the cost?

 

Bump... any updates?

 

I think I should chime in here gtorx7 had a little disagreement with 7club not sure if hes on here now. as for the fb its still the shops parts runner. daily driven no real issues at all. as for hp he was thinking about a new exhaust should make some more hp after thats done. about the video's I can ask him but I dont think he has any uploaded right now.

 

yea some bs went down..i dont know if i know the whole story but what i do know...its stupid.

 

Well, that's a shame. He seems like a good guy. I guess the "Collections Hold" status under his avatar has some sort of meaning. Damn...


I wasn't even aware of his show until finding this thread last night. Here in the Detroit area, land of the Muscle Car, there are NO rotary shops. Bonzai used to be here years ago, but Chris moved the operation to Indy. Well, his shop, in Columbus, is "only" 3 hours away. I guess that's an improvement!

I'm running a stock engine in a clean car and been looking to find more hp. This thread caught my eye, as I'd like to gain power without having to do a turbo swap. Sounds like GTO's car really pushed that putton!

 

Had a chance to speak with Logan. seems like a good guy. ported 13B-RE, with intake and headers, for 240 hp? Sounds sweet to me. Would love to see this puppy in action....

 

I am getting a 86 RX7 that was built for SCCA racing. The guy that I am getting from calls its a Pro 7. It has coilover and not sure what can or has been done to the engine. It's non turbo but can I change it to turbo? It think it's class EP with out the turbo. I haven't been around SCCA racing since 1968 when I went to racing sprint cars and dirt Modifieds till 1988 when I retired from racing. Or I thought I retired the dam bug bit me again. If anyone out there understands SCCA roadracing class's and what I should be looking for please fill me in. Thanks

 

Go check out the road race tech forum. That forum is all for road racing, etc. You should find the answers that you're looking for over there.

 

Yeah I am still around, just added a period to my name so I can post at least Apparently if you dont want be a vendor anymore, your name gets banned for life too. Harsh if you ask me. Anyway, only update at the moment is the car ran over a big rock and dented the muffler, which led to the muffler blowing a hole in it. lol. So I took the opportunity to chop it all off and make it all nice and stainless Shooting for some more power once I get some time for the FB again!

 

Necroing this one because I am curious of potential updates.

 

Ah the old thread has been brought back to life. Well, in the most pure goal of the 1st gen always being the "test mule", progress for more power street ported has temporarily been placed on hold. Sure a new exhaust and some more tweaks I have learned this past two years would put it strongly in the 240-245rwhp..... but its still fighting the good fight at 230 wheel.

SO..... lastest update....... the engine was removed! Now dont think bad thoughts, it is for a good cause. And no she is not blown After 45,000 miles of 9,000 rpm daily, we removed and tore down the engine to see how it was holding up. Answer? Freaking great! Pre-mix and proper clearancing has kept this sucker looking nearly like when it was assembled almost 4 years ago! Side iron wear is getting high now, otherwise perfect from top to bottom.

Look at this poor sucker, looks like I left it at the bottom of the ocean! Winters in ohio and never popping the hood will do that I suppose. Hard to believe this makes 230wheel any day of the week. lol.










I will be adding some pics of the engine tear down, and the super badass (or should I say super ugly) header that was on it.


Plans for the engine-

Test mule's engine was tore down to get some real testosterone placed in it.

Rotors will get milled to 3mm and side clearancing done
Stationary gears actually upgraded to the FD factory hardened ones
Race rotor bearings
Taper the journals on the eccentric shaft
New oil pump
Carbon apex seals
Semi p-porting
ITB's for the p-ports
All new exhaust system using all the latest tricks

This should make for a baby version of my 3 rotor. Or aka 275+rwhp
More development will be done with intake setups to further promote the 20b power

Unfortunately the engine will not get placed back into the 1st gen
It is finding a new home in this FD! Our rental track car!



Plans for the 1st gen chassis-

Getting a FULL factory 6 port engine. BUT with semi p-port! The 1st gen keeping with time honored tradition will be testing out un-charted waters with the power of semi p-port combined with factory non-ported engines. 6 port will be first, then TII based so on so fourth.

So there you have it! Always something going on here at Defined Autoworks

 

Nice, that's going to be a great combo.

One question though. Why are you going with 3mm apex seals, when 2mm apex seals are lighter? And if you really want the most power, go with the 2mm 2 piece ceramic seals. Very light and will produce more compression than the one piece.

 

Interesting on the no-porting 6-ports. Does that mean no exhaust porting either or just no intake porting?

 

ps, how did you put oil in that engine? With a straw?

 

sounds like a great plan. i've always been intrigued by this idea. you'll be the second person i know of to do this. i can't wait.

 

3mm because it will be running carbon apex seals. Help reduce the wear rate of the seals. I use 2mm 2pc ceramic in my 20b, and yes they are excellent But for this engine its more budget oriented. Ceramics are $1200, and I would have to get two brand new rotor housings at $1200. $2400 is a big leap in engine budget.

Not sure just yet. I wanted to do no exhaust porting. But the rotor housings that are being semi p-ported are out of this engine. Which already are ported. since the apex seals are already broken into these housings it will reduce break-in on the 6-port engine assembly.

Hahaha, you like that? I was too lazy to fab up a new filler neck and figured I never needed to check or add oil anyway.... lol. Unbolting two bolts every 3-4k miles isnt too hard

I am pretty excited to try as well. Guess I should rephrase and say "lightly treaded waters" with the idea, haha.

 

Why 3mm carbon? 2mm are available and work well enough.

 

The engine needs to easily last a full season of racing. 45 min races for the full summer. After speaking with Carlos about old school carbons, he said at 9k rpm 3mm carbon seals wear .004" per hour. 2mm is going to wear even faster than that.

 

That's interesting and is going to make me have to do more considerating. I have an unbelievably good GSL-SE rotor housing and just scored another one and I wanted to use 2mm carbons with my S4 rotating assembly, just so I don't kill more rotor housings by wear or by damage, but now I'm not so sure.

I might only see an hour's worth of high RPM use per year, but it's all that driving in between that gets me. I don't want to use another set of Atkins seals, they aren't very housing-friendly and after about 50-60k they have no low RPM compression because there isn't any more spring tension on the seals - the seals are worn out where the springs ride.

 

Valid point. I've seen varying amounts of wear on 2mm carbon seals in the past. Lube is, obviously, a big factor in making them live.

 

Hmm I have a 13bre bridgeported w/3mm seals what hp can be expected from that motor n/a

 

Hmm I have a 13bre bridgeported w/3mm seals what hp can be expected from that motor n/a