Finding power for your N/A
if were gonna get into putting money in to this car like none other, throw some fuji racing ITB's with a standalone on there... a lot more air into the engine but make sure it doesnt lean it out too much, so you have the standalone... throw money on there and make some power out of a stock motor
Ls1????
If you can do that, I will pay you a decent amount of change to give me an engine on stock ports that can make 200 whp. I won't even ask how you did it, as long as it makes 200 whp on a properly calibrated dyno.
If you can do that, I will pay you a decent amount of change to give me an engine on stock ports that can make 200 whp. I won't even ask how you did it, as long as it makes 200 whp on a properly calibrated dyno.
So it has to be 100% stock. No header, must use OEM converters, factory ECU, etc.
So, are you 14? Just curious. You're talking about a setup where racers who are under similar constraints struggle to make 190hp at the crank and would sell their grandmothers to a dog food company to get another 5hp, and you can find 40 more horsepower?
So, are you 14? Just curious. You're talking about a setup where racers who are under similar constraints struggle to make 190hp at the crank and would sell their grandmothers to a dog food company to get another 5hp, and you can find 40 more horsepower?
So it has to be 100% stock. No header, must use OEM converters, factory ECU, etc.
So, are you 14? Just curious. You're talking about a setup where racers who are under similar constraints struggle to make 190hp at the crank and would sell their grandmothers to a dog food company to get another 5hp, and you can find 40 more horsepower?
So, are you 14? Just curious. You're talking about a setup where racers who are under similar constraints struggle to make 190hp at the crank and would sell their grandmothers to a dog food company to get another 5hp, and you can find 40 more horsepower?
You guys will need to throw emissions and confort out if you want to get even remotely close to your goals. Just an FYI, I don't think the Speedsource ITS engines (stockports, stock manifold) are making much more than 180whp if that. I would make that a goal first and go from there. A lot of people have trouble getting that with streetports.
Please don't take this as me telling you not to try as that is deffinatly the last thing I want to do. I respect anyone who actually makes an effort to make n/a power as too many people say it's not worth it. I think it is possible to break 200 whp on stock ports if not get very close, but it would involve opening the motor and quite a bit of money to make it even feasible.
Also, some of the people you are arguing with know what they are talking about. If you listen you may learn something.
Please don't take this as me telling you not to try as that is deffinatly the last thing I want to do. I respect anyone who actually makes an effort to make n/a power as too many people say it's not worth it. I think it is possible to break 200 whp on stock ports if not get very close, but it would involve opening the motor and quite a bit of money to make it even feasible.
Also, some of the people you are arguing with know what they are talking about. If you listen you may learn something.
Why do i sense that his "secret" trick would be some sort of fuel additive or something like that. Or maybe even adding some hydrogen or propane mixed with the air charge.
But that is no longer natural aspiration. Natural aspiration is air and fuel.
I don't know how well rotaries would take to nitromethane...
But that'd be an emissions killer for sure.
"Passing emissions" is a rather nebulous term. An idle sniffer test is different from a IM240 is different from an IM2525 is different from the federal test procedure, and some places' visual inspection is down to things like physically checking timing and other places' is just checking for visible smoke and if there's something in the exhaust that looks like a converter. So the only way to say it "passes emissions" is to be 100% factory except for CARB-approved modifications.
In Ohio, only a few counties have emissions testing, and it's an IM2525, which oddly enough a stock RX-7 can fail because it's outside the Federal test loop to run the car at 4000rpm in 2nd gear. I *have* passed it with some things not exactly conducive to good emissions, but the car was far from "smog legal". Basically emissions tests are a joke.
Stock OBDII cars can fail if someone resets the PCM before taking the test... because if the emissions monitors haven't run, then they do an IM2525, and many times a car can pass the on-board checks but fail an actual sniffer. (Lot of Fords, for instance, don't *actually* check the catalysts to see if they're working or not!)
I don't know how well rotaries would take to nitromethane...
But that'd be an emissions killer for sure."Passing emissions" is a rather nebulous term. An idle sniffer test is different from a IM240 is different from an IM2525 is different from the federal test procedure, and some places' visual inspection is down to things like physically checking timing and other places' is just checking for visible smoke and if there's something in the exhaust that looks like a converter. So the only way to say it "passes emissions" is to be 100% factory except for CARB-approved modifications.
In Ohio, only a few counties have emissions testing, and it's an IM2525, which oddly enough a stock RX-7 can fail because it's outside the Federal test loop to run the car at 4000rpm in 2nd gear. I *have* passed it with some things not exactly conducive to good emissions, but the car was far from "smog legal". Basically emissions tests are a joke.
Stock OBDII cars can fail if someone resets the PCM before taking the test... because if the emissions monitors haven't run, then they do an IM2525, and many times a car can pass the on-board checks but fail an actual sniffer. (Lot of Fords, for instance, don't *actually* check the catalysts to see if they're working or not!)
Joined: Mar 2001
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From: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
yeah in CA we have a visual, to make sure that ALL of the emissions is there, then they run the im240 test, like pj says, out of the test loop the cars were originally designed for, then they test the evap system on non obdII cars to see if it holds vacuum.
that limits the CA people to the stock exhaust manifold and 2 cats....
that limits the CA people to the stock exhaust manifold and 2 cats....
So it has to be 100% stock. No header, must use OEM converters, factory ECU, etc.
So, are you 14? Just curious. You're talking about a setup where racers who are under similar constraints struggle to make 190hp at the crank and would sell their grandmothers to a dog food company to get another 5hp, and you can find 40 more horsepower?
So, are you 14? Just curious. You're talking about a setup where racers who are under similar constraints struggle to make 190hp at the crank and would sell their grandmothers to a dog food company to get another 5hp, and you can find 40 more horsepower?
yes it is still an N/A, its just fuel and air and thats what hydrogen is, fuel and air mixed.
i found a way to make it run like a full time nos system. im still working out the variable pressure though. it will run like a pressurized fuel system when im done with it though. it SHOULD pass emissions the way im gonna have it set up, and it will make some extra horses too!
if someone could find me an air injector that works like a fuel injector it would speed this process up!
I know of the system you're talking about that you want to use your alternator to do the work using those cells that I cannot remember what they're called right now. But as mentioned, its not really saying its NA anymore because its more of less like nitrous
Your a joke. I have done work with hydrogen before and have seen the results. I would be glad to put everything on my car that i want, but i dont have the money to buy the stuff. This is just a sure fire way to get a stock port, N/A rotary engine to 200 + RWHP and have good gas mileage.
I will be trying to make the 200 with out the hydrogen first, but in the end, it will be on hydrogen for the extra boost in power and gas mileage.
No, the question is "Who are you?" and also, Wrong. This thread is not about "ideas" to make power, it is about making power, 200+ RWHP to be exact.
No, what you posted up is info that has already been discussed in this thread multiple times, you just wanted to look smart and gather up everything that we had all discussed and put it in your own words.
Also, i wasn't criticizing your information, i was correcting for the purpose of the thread, which you did not seem to grasp to well.
So, before you come in here trying to sling bull **** and repost information from everyone else, use your brain and think of something useful to add, instead of being a ******* troll. if you would have read my first post, I told everyone, like you, to keep this kind of **** out of this thread. If you dont like it then dont ******* click on the link.
this is a thread for technical information, not your ****.
now, unless you have some useful information for this thread, DON'T COME BACK!
Now, lets get back to making power. I dont want to turn this thread into a "hydrogen controversy" thread so, well leave that out for now.
Lets talk about wiring. has anyone else noticed all the unused plugs and wires? I bet that would take out a good amount of weight. so, the question is, do we NEED the diagnostic wires and plugs?
I will be trying to make the 200 with out the hydrogen first, but in the end, it will be on hydrogen for the extra boost in power and gas mileage.
No, what you posted up is info that has already been discussed in this thread multiple times, you just wanted to look smart and gather up everything that we had all discussed and put it in your own words.
Also, i wasn't criticizing your information, i was correcting for the purpose of the thread, which you did not seem to grasp to well.
So, before you come in here trying to sling bull **** and repost information from everyone else, use your brain and think of something useful to add, instead of being a ******* troll. if you would have read my first post, I told everyone, like you, to keep this kind of **** out of this thread. If you dont like it then dont ******* click on the link.
this is a thread for technical information, not your ****.
now, unless you have some useful information for this thread, DON'T COME BACK!
Now, lets get back to making power. I dont want to turn this thread into a "hydrogen controversy" thread so, well leave that out for now.
Lets talk about wiring. has anyone else noticed all the unused plugs and wires? I bet that would take out a good amount of weight. so, the question is, do we NEED the diagnostic wires and plugs?






