not true. just cause its not public doesnt mean it didnt happen.

 

thats what i meant, theres not much public info on this stuff.

 

actually it would be nice to have a number for just removing the sleeves and rods from a 6 port. not so much for the 3-4 more peak hp, but so you see what it does to the midrange.

thats the one we know made the race car faster, but on the track we didnt care about anything sub 5000rpms

 

and one pineapple sleeves to see how much they make.

blackball7 are going to step up and volunteer to be the dyno dummy

 

yes i think so, but i am out of money now seeing as i just spent 800 i dont have... got the car back though! its sitting in my driveway right now, i couldnt be happier!

 

That might be me. But it was done with a 4-port, haltech fuel computer and 1st gen dizzy.
Edit- I cant read, you said stock port. Mine is a street port. Please link us to a stock 6 port with 206rwhp.

 

well, im not to sure if anyone has before and i kind of hope no one has. That would be great for me to hit it, good publicity for my shop! lol i have a few bugs to work out on my project car, but i hope to have all my bills paid by the middle of next month, then ill be able to start on that adventure.

 

Too be honest .. by the sound of your lack of funds ... that might hold you back. Alot of this stuff does need alot of trial and error, and testing time on a dyno. Dyno's aren't cheap. But a properly tuned intake and header system (not just a racing beat header) will go a long way. There a guy on the forum (pirsq) who claims he has a pipe that you add at the end of the header and can increase your HP across the whole range. Worth investing in it maybe.

To get the most of all your mods too you will need a standalone ECU and a really good tune. Tuning an engine properly alone can net another 10whp or so.

 

well, the dyno part has been taken care of. i have a friend with one were i can run for free or at least a very discounted rate.

this is going to be a very slow process though, i just found out i may have a bad TPS as well as a few other things i need to fix first.

ill have to look into the pipe, it sounds a little to good to be true, but it cant hurt to check into it. as for the ecu, all i have so far is a S-AFC II, i got it for $150 in perfect condition, so i couldnt pass it up. it should be able to get me along for the time being.

the funds i am also taking care of, i have a few projects in the works that will, hopefully, get a little more cash coming in very shortly. only a few more snags on that line before i get it cast out there.

thanks for all the help and interest in this project guys, its gonna be great to prove that the N/A stock ports can kick some *** too!

 

I know this hasn't been mentioned, you should get a lightened driveshaft with your lw flywheel. Thats gotta deliver a few more engine ponies to the ground.

 

true, but, how many lightened drive shafts have you seen around?

 

http://www.mazdatrix.com/g9.htm

scroll down.

 

I noticed it said "aluminum driveshaft" but it doesnt say anything about the weight difference there.

 

Well it says it is 10.65lbs so if you could just find someone who had a drive shaft out to weigh theirs

 

Stock drive shaft felt somewhere around 20 when it fell and hit me in the face.

Course you could go to a driveline specialty shop, and invest in a Carbon Fiber one...youd also be paying out of a bleeding ******* if you did...but itd be lighter than 10 lbs too.

Could upgrade to the turbo 2 transmission and see if theres anything gained there...I know that 5th is different, but the bearing sizes are different internally (larger in turbo 2). Changing diffs too maybe? Turbo ring gears are larger diameter than NA ones...you could also try a miata diff...same as NA (think the arms are the same...could be different)

Lighter CV arms from the diff might help also...

Aluminum pulleys, (read, waterpump and crank underdrive) might pick things up slightly too.

Could also check the HP number with racing plugs (that NGK sells for rotary race use) as compared with stock NGK plugs.

As for what ive tried...a 13lb (counterweight included) flywheel definitely picks up faster...not sure on actual power gain.

 

Exactly wrong. The clutch fan moves a LOT of air especially at higher RPM. That is why it is such a power hog. The electric fan, by definition, should require more power to move the same air because the power is going through two more changes (instead of belt-fan it goes belt-alternator-motor-fan) and each change adds loss. However, it doesn't move *as much* air, so the power required is lower, so it's a net power gain.

I would suspect that switching to 5W20 motor oil would net you more power than removing the double throttle assembly on an EFI car. But then, the colt start equipment is broken or misadjusted 90% of the time and it doesn't do much of anything useful, anyway, so removing it is a nice way of eliminating a probable failure point.

 

Bottom end power on my -SE engine *sucked*, my stockport 12As would walk all over it, but the torque curve just kept going up and up and up until the tach ended and I'd get scared and upshift.

Really wish I could've had it on the dyno. All stock engine except for removed sleeves and actuators. The actuator rods are huge and all air going to the end housings has to work its way around them.

Didn't do any smoothing, just removed the rods/actuators/bushings, tapped 14x1.5, and installed blanking plugs made out of old spark plugs.

The double throttle assembly was borked, so I removed it, no porting though.

 

More importantly, they're larger in diameter, so the resonance frequency is altered. The stock driveshaft in a 1st-gen hits a resonance at about 8000rpm. When you go to shorter rearend gears, this seriously puts a hamper on your top speed. With the 4.78's I pretty much kept it under 80mph in order to keep the transmission alive. The resonance destroyed trannies.

 

So in this case bigger is better?

And just curious, where did you get your final drive gears from? Thats going to be the next step to get a n/a "faster".

 

correct me if im wrong but, doesnt the clutch fan stop after, like, 30 mph or so? im not 100% but i am pretty sure.

 

The clutch fan stops when the fluid inside the clutch assembly cools enough to release the clutch. If that fluid is cool enough (ie: when the air is moving through the radiator and over the cooling fins on the clutch assembly) then the coolant itself is going to be cooled better by the moving air, not the air pulled by the fan, so the fan is no longer needed.

 

yes, according to theory orion is correct. However, go outside when your car is cold and try to spin your clutch fan, it still has resistance. This resistance is there even when the fluid is cool, meaning even when the engine coolant is "cool enough," it will still drag and turn with the motor. This is what still robs horsepower.

- Chris

 

could takeing off the smog pump by itself make a difference

 

No, it doesn't, unless you count the lost drag because when you remove the air pump, the alternator belt slips on the water pump because the main drive for the water pump and fan is from the air pump belt.

The clutch fan's main failure mode is sticking "on". Good for cooling but horrible for power. Additionally, the clutch is still taking power when it is freewheeling because it never really freewheels.

And you can run the electric fan with the engine off! Try that with a clutch fan

 

being able to run the fan while the car is off is definitely an upside to the clutch fan, so the e-fan is "all around" better than the stock clutch fan. now that this has been put to rest, lets move on.

i heard a little bit about someone making the mustang MAF fit our car. i believe, but im not sure, that it was Icemark. has anyone read up on this, done it, or even had it dyno'd?

EDIT: Nevermind, it was Mazdaspeed7, but that sounds like more work than what its worth.