^ They say that because doing an alignment on a car with very worn down tires throws the alignment off. Doing an alignment without putting on at least decent rear tires will result in camber and toe issues when you put new tires on. Spacers will throw the alignment off a little too. I've seen it quite a few times. Maybe borrow some wheels that are close to the size of your wheels and get the alignment done like that.

I would've done it for you but they changed the rules about working on other cars in the shop

 

Firestone by alameda and corrales aligned this a couple times, I'd say everything about it screams liability issues:

 

have you tired chets on menual?? i remember the SCCA guys would get there race cars straighten there

 

I don't mind if i have to get it redone when i buy new tires, i just need to try and extend the life of these as much as i possibly can until i can afford to get the new ones. This is what they look like now:

http://i42.tinypic.com/2dkd8i8.jpg

You can see the front tires as well...To my knowledge, they were all bought at the same time. If i can get everything adjusted i should, theoretically, be able to run on the other half that is still good (It even still has the little nubs on them) until i can get new tires, and then I'll just get it aligned again. I'll head down to a firestone or chets or something once i get my first paycheck (Got a new job )

 

I use Firestone on Central and 7th (manager is Perry Yardley), but you're probably right about it being a liability issue. They're likely to tell you the same thing as Discount Tire.

When I need a very precise alignment I go to Boulevard Automotive. Kevin is the alignment expert there (he was formerly at Chet's).

If your rear is dropped low enough to induce an amount of negative camber that justifies purchasing a camber kit then there's not a lot that can be done about your toe-in. You might be able to remove some of the toe-in, but the adjustment bolt will max out before the toe is zeroed. The only way to get zero toe is to raise the rear.

AWR sells a very nice kit that solves the issue. It's best used with spherical rear control arm bearings, but the stock rubber bushings should have enough play.

 

See thing is, i bought this without doing a whole lot of research (Dumb mistake, i know). But now that i have it, i figure i may as well use it right? I spent a bit of cash on it, might as well not let it sit in a corner. I do have a fair bit of negative camber, but all the guy that owned it before me did was put lowering springs on it, so i wouldn't think it would be low enough to not be able to correct for the toe...We'll see, if not I'll just tell them to get it as close to stock as they can. I want to salvage as much of the tread i have left as i can before i wear them down to the belts or something.

The car doesn't even really sit very low either, in fact i kind of want to go lower with it, so it should be fine...Just gotta wait for a paycheck to roll in.

 

Looks like my ecu is blown.... -__-
At least thats what Digital Tuning says. I guess that explains the problems I have been having.

 

bummer to hear man hope you can get her fixed soon

 

Got the camber kit installed and somewhat adjusted and an alignment, rides a lot better.

 

Whats up eaststreet. This is the guy with the Black Z32 TT.

 

That sucks. I have an S4 TII ecu if you wanna buy it. PM me if you's interested.

 

i might have one, whats it for?

 

oh is it audi? nevermind i thought it was for an fd

 

Its for an fc, an n332 to be exact. I already bought one, thanks though guys. My questions is this: My car has Denso 550cc s5 injectors wired in, but still has a resistor pack. I'm guessing this had something to do with the ecu getting fried. Should I go ahead and just install s4 low-z injectors, or disconnect the resistor pack and run high-z injectors? Either way I have to resolder in the old square style clips.

 

Hey whats up...no I'm the black guy with the maroon Z32 TT LOL!!!

your talking about "The black plague" with the black Z32 TT killer car by the way..

I forget his name but he rolls with Alex at NMImports

 

want them??? come and get them..first come first served... there collecting dust in my garage and i can't use them for anything....they make for great daily drivers or track wheels with racing tires on them..

let me know bro!!!

cause if no one gets them by this weekend there outta here to the D U M P!!!!!

 

Pick me pick me pick me!!! I want drift spares haha. Will you hold them till monday? I am going out of town for some usmcr bizness till then.

 

yep if you will promise cross your heart to take them???

 

Cross my heart and hope to die!

 

oh!...ok

 

Yes, if you are running high-impedence resistors(I.E. s5 or late s4) they will toast your ecu, I'm suprised it even ran with those in there. It is not as easy as it sound to just bypass the resistor pack. You would need to split the entire harness and re-wire it. Easiest and cost effective solution is to put low impedence s4 injectors back in with the right model ecu.

 

my bag man.....see that what happens when you read a post with to many beers and working on cars in the middle of the night....

Hope the Z coming along well...looked good last time I saw it....hey i had Alex put in my Megan down pipes and i installed the BOV i bought from you .....MAN!!!! now it sounds like a Beast...wow!!! you gotta hear it!!!

 

Anyone have a junk 13b they want to get rid of? I'd like to start a little side-rebuild so i can drop it in later down the road, mine is starting to not sound too healthy.

 

Random question for all of ya. Anyone know anyone in the market for a plain 'ol mustang 3.8 v6?

@ Justin: A friend of mine found one up in a Santa Fe salvage yard some months back. Might be worth a look if you can't get it from one of these guys.

 

what's the cost?