Ongoing Montana thread
Plane tickets are cheap. We can look into getting a car hauler with the amount of people we would probably have. I want to take both cars. I might be able to take just one. Or we can rent one of those big assed RV's from Modern RV or something. I am going to look into options a little more.
I am down with doing whatever this weekend. I have no plans on saturday.
I am down with doing whatever this weekend. I have no plans on saturday.
yeah i was thinking we should all drive down there(pain in the *** for gas but probably worth it) or like you said haul them all down there lol. oh and i know matt works till 3 on saturday but im free all day for sure.
SevenStock is fun!
Plane tickets are gonna KILL everyone! Best bet would be to drive.
It would take me 17 hours straight through to get from here back to Riverside, CA.
Irvine Mazda R&D Center (where they usually hold the event) is about another 45 minutes from there.
It is a fun drive and given the price of gas RIGHT NOW hopefully it stays the same or lowers in price by October of next year. JUST make sure we all get some of that Spray-on-bra-liner to keep the front of our cars getting eaten alive from rock chips from Salt Lake through Vegas.
I am down for going IF I can save a little cash on the side and not be tempted to dump it in my FC. PLUS bring extra cash for the goodies the vendors sell.
Plane tickets are gonna KILL everyone! Best bet would be to drive.
It would take me 17 hours straight through to get from here back to Riverside, CA.
Irvine Mazda R&D Center (where they usually hold the event) is about another 45 minutes from there.
It is a fun drive and given the price of gas RIGHT NOW hopefully it stays the same or lowers in price by October of next year. JUST make sure we all get some of that Spray-on-bra-liner to keep the front of our cars getting eaten alive from rock chips from Salt Lake through Vegas.
I am down for going IF I can save a little cash on the side and not be tempted to dump it in my FC. PLUS bring extra cash for the goodies the vendors sell.
SevenStock is fun!
Plane tickets are gonna KILL everyone! Best bet would be to drive.
It would take me 17 hours straight through to get from here back to Riverside, CA.
Irvine Mazda R&D Center (where they usually hold the event) is about another 45 minutes from there.
It is a fun drive and given the price of gas RIGHT NOW hopefully it stays the same or lowers in price by October of next year. JUST make sure we all get some of that Spray-on-bra-liner to keep the front of our cars getting eaten alive from rock chips from Salt Lake through Vegas.
I am down for going IF I can save a little cash on the side and not be tempted to dump it in my FC. PLUS bring extra cash for the goodies the vendors sell.
Plane tickets are gonna KILL everyone! Best bet would be to drive.
It would take me 17 hours straight through to get from here back to Riverside, CA.
Irvine Mazda R&D Center (where they usually hold the event) is about another 45 minutes from there.
It is a fun drive and given the price of gas RIGHT NOW hopefully it stays the same or lowers in price by October of next year. JUST make sure we all get some of that Spray-on-bra-liner to keep the front of our cars getting eaten alive from rock chips from Salt Lake through Vegas.
I am down for going IF I can save a little cash on the side and not be tempted to dump it in my FC. PLUS bring extra cash for the goodies the vendors sell.

Cars coming along good. I was out and about today after I replaced my primaries with some new 750 siemen decka's. Needed to restart all my tuning AGAIN! **** me man, this is like the third time.
It must have been a rotary day because I saw a **** load of RX-7's out today! Ran into Matt on 10th, saw my uncle in his 3rd gen on Smelter, saw a red S5 NA by Eklunds and ran into Kyle on 1st North.
By the way Kyle, your FC is looking great man! It has a very mean stance. I think this is actually my first time seeing it with the coilovers, lip and wing. The wing looks good, I always thought those look oversized in pic's but it looks proportional with the side skirts and the stock lines.
I am gonna start working my suspension this winter. I don't think I could handle coilovers here in GF though. Are they pretty rough?
It must have been a rotary day because I saw a **** load of RX-7's out today! Ran into Matt on 10th, saw my uncle in his 3rd gen on Smelter, saw a red S5 NA by Eklunds and ran into Kyle on 1st North.
By the way Kyle, your FC is looking great man! It has a very mean stance. I think this is actually my first time seeing it with the coilovers, lip and wing. The wing looks good, I always thought those look oversized in pic's but it looks proportional with the side skirts and the stock lines.
I am gonna start working my suspension this winter. I don't think I could handle coilovers here in GF though. Are they pretty rough?
You will not regret putting in coilovers. You don't have to get crazy with huge spring rates. You can compromise with lower spring rates and still get the benefits of full range of adjustment. I am not sure on kyles rates he will have to chime in there. I don't think I can give ya a ride before snow so you can compare my spring rates but I don't think they are much if at all higher then kyles. Plus I have monster bouncy stock sidewall tires, no motor, exhaust, registration, an rx2 butthole, and yeah hi.
At least this spring is looking promising.
At least this spring is looking promising.
Knock one thing off my list my motor showed back up today. Hoooray
Haha I am not really worried about paint chips on me FC or the Rx2 really. I was looking at round trip air fair right now is around $500 bucks to LAX. Wich is crazy my wife just bought round trip tickets to Germany and they where only $850.
Haha I am not really worried about paint chips on me FC or the Rx2 really. I was looking at round trip air fair right now is around $500 bucks to LAX. Wich is crazy my wife just bought round trip tickets to Germany and they where only $850.
Still another 4 hour drive to Irvine from Vegas.
WOW, plane tickets are cheap again!!!!
Flying would be good but ............500$ is a lot of gas money and I can tell you how bad *** it is to be waiting in that line of 200 or so rotary vehicles waiting to get into that show. You won't be able to wash the smell of gas off of your skin for weeks!
You will definitly want your FC there.
WOW, plane tickets are cheap again!!!!
Flying would be good but ............500$ is a lot of gas money and I can tell you how bad *** it is to be waiting in that line of 200 or so rotary vehicles waiting to get into that show. You won't be able to wash the smell of gas off of your skin for weeks!
You will definitly want your FC there.
Still another 4 hour drive to Irvine from Vegas.
WOW, plane tickets are cheap again!!!!
Flying would be good but ............500$ is a lot of gas money and I can tell you how bad *** it is to be waiting in that line of 200 or so rotary vehicles waiting to get into that show. You won't be able to wash the smell of gas off of your skin for weeks!
You will definitly want your FC there.
WOW, plane tickets are cheap again!!!!
Flying would be good but ............500$ is a lot of gas money and I can tell you how bad *** it is to be waiting in that line of 200 or so rotary vehicles waiting to get into that show. You won't be able to wash the smell of gas off of your skin for weeks!
You will definitly want your FC there.

Driving would be best though but if we can take some miles off with the train that would be kind of fun. Plus it runs west then down the coast. I guess I am just scurred to drive my car down there. If I book flights I know the cost if something breaks it could cost a lot more so I don't know what to think at this point.
Still another 4 hour drive to Irvine from Vegas.
WOW, plane tickets are cheap again!!!!
Flying would be good but ............500$ is a lot of gas money and I can tell you how bad *** it is to be waiting in that line of 200 or so rotary vehicles waiting to get into that show. You won't be able to wash the smell of gas off of your skin for weeks!
You will definitly want your FC there.
WOW, plane tickets are cheap again!!!!
Flying would be good but ............500$ is a lot of gas money and I can tell you how bad *** it is to be waiting in that line of 200 or so rotary vehicles waiting to get into that show. You won't be able to wash the smell of gas off of your skin for weeks!
You will definitly want your FC there.

Thanks for the compliments on the car!!!! I looked through alot of pics to decide what I actually wanted to do. I stick with the keep it simple method. If u are interested in coilovers i am more then happy to give you a ride so that u can get an idea.....if the weather stays. I was kinda iffy about them but I am really happy with them.
hey guys.. so i've been gone for a while. went to hawai'i, had a kick *** time. now i'm back to the grind stone.
so, enlighten me about 7stock? when, where, how much? i'm guessing in cali somewhere from the posts, so how do you plan on getting through the state line emissions? i know damn well niether of mine would pass.
i don' t remember who posted it, but i thought that bridge porting was for constant high rpm motors, not good at all for street daily driver?
and speaking of, what's this "tier" porting people here keep telling me about?
so, enlighten me about 7stock? when, where, how much? i'm guessing in cali somewhere from the posts, so how do you plan on getting through the state line emissions? i know damn well niether of mine would pass.
i don' t remember who posted it, but i thought that bridge porting was for constant high rpm motors, not good at all for street daily driver?
and speaking of, what's this "tier" porting people here keep telling me about?
hey guys.. so i've been gone for a while. went to hawai'i, had a kick *** time. now i'm back to the grind stone.
so, enlighten me about 7stock? when, where, how much? i'm guessing in cali somewhere from the posts, so how do you plan on getting through the state line emissions? i know damn well niether of mine would pass.
i don' t remember who posted it, but i thought that bridge porting was for constant high rpm motors, not good at all for street daily driver?
and speaking of, what's this "tier" porting people here keep telling me about?
so, enlighten me about 7stock? when, where, how much? i'm guessing in cali somewhere from the posts, so how do you plan on getting through the state line emissions? i know damn well niether of mine would pass.
i don' t remember who posted it, but i thought that bridge porting was for constant high rpm motors, not good at all for street daily driver?
and speaking of, what's this "tier" porting people here keep telling me about?
giggle......don't worry about the emissions guys. I lived there for about 3 years and onky got pulled over once. I told the cop that I was a temp deployer for the USAF and he was fine with it. Like Ransom said, you have to go through emissions ONLY if you plan on living there and registering your car.
OFFSET: One of the most asked questions, what's the offset closely followed by what is the biggest wheel that can I fit onto my car? The offset is a gauge of how much a wheel will stick out from the arch of a car or how far it will recess into the arch of the car. If the offset is wrong, the wheels will stick out too far and will almost be a like a beach buggy!
If you take a wheel and cut it in half and draw a line down the centre of the width of a wheel (Figure 1), the offset would be the distance between the back face (mounting face) of the wheel and the centre line that you have just drawn (shown as a dotted line in Figure 1).
It is very important not to deviate too far from the offset of the wheel originally fitted to the vehicle. A wheel of radically different offset can cause serious clearance and handling problems along with accelerated tire and bearing wear.
The offset is commonly shown as a et number, i.e.et49. This means the offset is 49mm. The offset is always measured in millimetre's and can normally be found at the back of the wheel or stamped behind the centre cap (if fitted).
Negative scrub geometry had the intention that if you got a flat tire you were still able to control the car (so long as you weren't going motorway speeds). So its best to keep as close to the et49 figure as possible.
However the bigger the alloy wheel goes, the more difficult it becomes to stay close to the et49. The reason being is that as wheel gets bigger in diameter, it also becomes wider, and so does the tyre that fits it. This is when other items in the wheel arch can begin to foul with the alloy wheel or the tyre. Namely the arch lip of the car and the suspension strut (Figure 2). When this happens the offset must change for the bigger wheel and tyre to fit in the arch. Plus if the car has been lowered, this will have to be considered too as the wheel is now tucked further up in the arch.
OFFSET: One of the most asked questions, what's the offset closely followed by what is the biggest wheel that can I fit onto my car? The offset is a gauge of how much a wheel will stick out from the arch of a car or how far it will recess into the arch of the car. If the offset is wrong, the wheels will stick out too far and will almost be a like a beach buggy!
If you take a wheel and cut it in half and draw a line down the centre of the width of a wheel (Figure 1), the offset would be the distance between the back face (mounting face) of the wheel and the centre line that you have just drawn (shown as a dotted line in Figure 1).
It is very important not to deviate too far from the offset of the wheel originally fitted to the vehicle. A wheel of radically different offset can cause serious clearance and handling problems along with accelerated tire and bearing wear.
The offset is commonly shown as a et number, i.e.et49. This means the offset is 49mm. The offset is always measured in millimetre's and can normally be found at the back of the wheel or stamped behind the centre cap (if fitted).
Negative scrub geometry had the intention that if you got a flat tire you were still able to control the car (so long as you weren't going motorway speeds). So its best to keep as close to the et49 figure as possible.
However the bigger the alloy wheel goes, the more difficult it becomes to stay close to the et49. The reason being is that as wheel gets bigger in diameter, it also becomes wider, and so does the tyre that fits it. This is when other items in the wheel arch can begin to foul with the alloy wheel or the tyre. Namely the arch lip of the car and the suspension strut (Figure 2). When this happens the offset must change for the bigger wheel and tyre to fit in the arch. Plus if the car has been lowered, this will have to be considered too as the wheel is now tucked further up in the arch.
giggle......don't worry about the emissions guys. I lived there for about 3 years and onky got pulled over once. I told the cop that I was a temp deployer for the USAF and he was fine with it. Like Ransom said, you have to go through emissions ONLY if you plan on living there and registering your car.
OFFSET: One of the most asked questions, what's the offset closely followed by what is the biggest wheel that can I fit onto my car? The offset is a gauge of how much a wheel will stick out from the arch of a car or how far it will recess into the arch of the car. If the offset is wrong, the wheels will stick out too far and will almost be a like a beach buggy!
If you take a wheel and cut it in half and draw a line down the centre of the width of a wheel (Figure 1), the offset would be the distance between the back face (mounting face) of the wheel and the centre line that you have just drawn (shown as a dotted line in Figure 1).
It is very important not to deviate too far from the offset of the wheel originally fitted to the vehicle. A wheel of radically different offset can cause serious clearance and handling problems along with accelerated tire and bearing wear.
The offset is commonly shown as a et number, i.e.et49. This means the offset is 49mm. The offset is always measured in millimetre's and can normally be found at the back of the wheel or stamped behind the centre cap (if fitted).
Negative scrub geometry had the intention that if you got a flat tire you were still able to control the car (so long as you weren't going motorway speeds). So its best to keep as close to the et49 figure as possible.
However the bigger the alloy wheel goes, the more difficult it becomes to stay close to the et49. The reason being is that as wheel gets bigger in diameter, it also becomes wider, and so does the tyre that fits it. This is when other items in the wheel arch can begin to foul with the alloy wheel or the tyre. Namely the arch lip of the car and the suspension strut (Figure 2). When this happens the offset must change for the bigger wheel and tyre to fit in the arch. Plus if the car has been lowered, this will have to be considered too as the wheel is now tucked further up in the arch.
OFFSET: One of the most asked questions, what's the offset closely followed by what is the biggest wheel that can I fit onto my car? The offset is a gauge of how much a wheel will stick out from the arch of a car or how far it will recess into the arch of the car. If the offset is wrong, the wheels will stick out too far and will almost be a like a beach buggy!
If you take a wheel and cut it in half and draw a line down the centre of the width of a wheel (Figure 1), the offset would be the distance between the back face (mounting face) of the wheel and the centre line that you have just drawn (shown as a dotted line in Figure 1).
It is very important not to deviate too far from the offset of the wheel originally fitted to the vehicle. A wheel of radically different offset can cause serious clearance and handling problems along with accelerated tire and bearing wear.
The offset is commonly shown as a et number, i.e.et49. This means the offset is 49mm. The offset is always measured in millimetre's and can normally be found at the back of the wheel or stamped behind the centre cap (if fitted).
Negative scrub geometry had the intention that if you got a flat tire you were still able to control the car (so long as you weren't going motorway speeds). So its best to keep as close to the et49 figure as possible.
However the bigger the alloy wheel goes, the more difficult it becomes to stay close to the et49. The reason being is that as wheel gets bigger in diameter, it also becomes wider, and so does the tyre that fits it. This is when other items in the wheel arch can begin to foul with the alloy wheel or the tyre. Namely the arch lip of the car and the suspension strut (Figure 2). When this happens the offset must change for the bigger wheel and tyre to fit in the arch. Plus if the car has been lowered, this will have to be considered too as the wheel is now tucked further up in the arch.
Motor is back and going back together today a little bit. Still need some turbo line gaskets and a couple other things to get er back in. Then all I need is a FPR and the PLX and some an fitting to run parallel with the fuel rails and its time to fire it up agian. Yay
I also need a gastank for the rx2 I wonder if a FB tank will fit or if I should just go for the 20 gallon cell with sender out of summit for $249
Meh choices.
What are you guys doin today sataurday? Someone call meh I will be at the shop for a while.
Oh I am going to be an Amsoil dealer here soon I think. I don't get much of a price break but I am not going to use Royal Purple anymore. They have failed a lot of the tests they claim to pass. Also my pah just changed the oil in the tundra from Royal to Ams and got almost 2 miles more per gallon with the ams. If you guys are interested enough I may become a full dealer if not I am just going to go for their preferred buyer status. So either way I should be able to get us oil at about $10 a quart and a little less then $10 a quart in a gallon.
I also need a gastank for the rx2 I wonder if a FB tank will fit or if I should just go for the 20 gallon cell with sender out of summit for $249
Meh choices.
What are you guys doin today sataurday? Someone call meh I will be at the shop for a while.
Oh I am going to be an Amsoil dealer here soon I think. I don't get much of a price break but I am not going to use Royal Purple anymore. They have failed a lot of the tests they claim to pass. Also my pah just changed the oil in the tundra from Royal to Ams and got almost 2 miles more per gallon with the ams. If you guys are interested enough I may become a full dealer if not I am just going to go for their preferred buyer status. So either way I should be able to get us oil at about $10 a quart and a little less then $10 a quart in a gallon.
Last edited by chibikougan; Nov 8, 2008 at 03:31 PM.
Motor is back and going back together today a little bit. Still need some turbo line gaskets and a couple other things to get er back in. Then all I need is a FPR and the PLX and some an fitting to run parallel with the fuel rails and its time to fire it up agian. Yay
I also need a gastank for the rx2 I wonder if a FB tank will fit or if I should just go for the 20 gallon cell with sender out of summit for $249
Meh choices.
What are you guys doin today sataurday? Someone call meh I will be at the shop for a while.
Oh I am going to be an Amsoil dealer here soon I think. I don't get much of a price break but I am not going to use Royal Purple anymore. They have failed a lot of the tests they claim to pass. Also my pah just changed the oil in the tundra from Royal to Ams and got almost 2 miles more per gallon with the ams. If you guys are interested enough I may become a full dealer if not I am just going to go for their preferred buyer status. So either way I should be able to get us oil at about $10 a quart and a little less then $10 a quart in a gallon.
I also need a gastank for the rx2 I wonder if a FB tank will fit or if I should just go for the 20 gallon cell with sender out of summit for $249
Meh choices.
What are you guys doin today sataurday? Someone call meh I will be at the shop for a while.
Oh I am going to be an Amsoil dealer here soon I think. I don't get much of a price break but I am not going to use Royal Purple anymore. They have failed a lot of the tests they claim to pass. Also my pah just changed the oil in the tundra from Royal to Ams and got almost 2 miles more per gallon with the ams. If you guys are interested enough I may become a full dealer if not I am just going to go for their preferred buyer status. So either way I should be able to get us oil at about $10 a quart and a little less then $10 a quart in a gallon.
can i still use synthetic eventhough i still have the oil metering or are you just using it because youre using premix? i just thought the only synthetics you could use were the idemitsu and the royal purple
No do not run synthetic until you get rid of the OMP you don't want synthetic in the combustion chamber. Although I do use a synthetic premix oil. You can use any synthetic you want. I would not use royal purple but that is just me. They claim to live up to many things that they failed tests for so I chose not to use them anymore. If you are going to run a synthetic. The top goes pretty much Amsoil, Castrol, Redline, Mobil 1. The Castrol and Redline swap 2nd and 3rd spot on the list on many things but the Ams pretty much stays on top. All of wich are good syn oils.


