well i'm back. this time with a spark issue.

i'm getting fuel and combustion. need one more thing.

i'm getting 12v ign. at each coil. but i stuck a screw driver in the one of the leading coils and i got no spark.. how can i tell if my coils are bad? i wired everything correctly, i just went over it.

 

put the ecu into test mode, to do this change the number of cylinders in the setup screen to 0, this will pluse the injectors, coils etc

Dale

 

okay.. did that just now and the coils still aren't firing...

nice to know my efan works though

what do you think? they have GOOD grounds. coils bad? they were working fine in my other running car...

 

ok... i touched the coil after it was in test mode. it's pretty damn hot..

should i be getting 0-5v somewhere instead of 12v?(on the coil wires)

 

how have you got the coils wired up?? what do you mean by good earths?? the coils dont get earthed, if you have earthed the -neg side of the coil it will never run,

the coil gets +12v to one side, and trigger from igniter or microtech on the other, nothing else.

if the ecu is a LTX8, LT10s with X4, LTX12 etc you must have the 2 black wires that run through the ign harness hooked up to the engine block and no where else.

did you have the coils hooked up to the spark plugs when in test mode??

if so dissconnect them and try again with just the lead resting on the block

 

the coil works with 12v ignition power and off/on signal that comes from the microtech.

 

well i'll be damned..

i grounded the f*cking coil. wow. i feel.. pretty dumb.

i'll try to start it again tomorrow. it's an lt8s. thanks man.

 

LT8s you would be using stock coils,

you might have to have a wire from the stock igniter to ground, you only have to hook up the wires that are in the Microtech wiring digram tho, i havent got a s4 one handy so just do it as it says in there and it will be fine

Dale

 

well, i left the ground off and still no spark... i do get spark at the trailing coils.

 

ok hook the leading trigger to one of the trailing coils and see if that sparks, if it does then it is the coil pack

 

well, it turned out to be that the body of the coil it's self is earth, and there's a wire from the actual coil it's self routing to the top of the coil onto that little "-" terminal. so now i'm getting spark.

and it STILL won't start. my injector wiring is right, i'm getting spark, fuel(good pressure), and i have great compression. i'm seeing alot of white smoke coming out of the downpipe which i assume is normal. what else is there? the injectors are clicking in test mode. it's not flooded.

 

put another set of plugs in it just to be sure,

make sure the timing is right

Dale

 

are you using new injectors in the primaries, if not make sure they are not locked up
it happened to me

 

i'm using GSL injectors.. but i had them flow tested and cleaned.

 

ok, bare with me. the CAS MAY be wired wrong.

you see, i went by the colors on the HARNESS side of the connector. i did NOT wire the 4 CAS colored wires on the CAS side of the harness. each side has diferent colors in different places on the connector. does this make sense?

 

thats the problem,

you need to go by the colours on the CAS not the wiring harness side of the plug

Dale

 

ok, so i rewired it the right way. still no go. new plugs BTW.

hmmm. so back to the injectors. it's weird how i'm not flooding and i'm cranking ALOT. when it's in test mode, i can feel/hear the primary's clicking. that should mean that they're firing, right? so why am i not flooding?

 

If you have injectors cleaned by Marren or the sort and they sit for an extended period after the cleaner they use can solidify and plug them up.

 

son of a bitch, what a bloody headache.

so, could i just take off the injectors and see if they're spraying? i just don't see how BOTH of them would be clogged because they were sitting for a pretty long time.

 

is your CAS stabbed correctly? i know that's a basic question but just because you have it wired properly doesn't mean that it's timed properly.

check the CAS timing using the factory procedure, not the haltech procedure.

an engine needs four critical parts to function - AIR, FUEL, SPARK... and the often overlooked TIMING!

once those 4 are straightened out it should fire right up.

Ray