whinin

iTrader: (1)

Got my fuel problem fixed. New pump, strainer, filter, and clean tank. Plenty of pressure coming out the feed line (Don't have a pressure gauge, should probably get one soon).

But now, no spark.

Background.

Bought car a few weeks ago, been sitting, wouldn't even turn over. Replaced main fuse, car turns over but won't fire. Spraying starter fluid in the intake causes a different noise on cranking, but still doesn't fire. Acts like it wants to, but never fully catches.

I pulled both leading plugs and grounded them, and no spark. So, I need some guidance on where to proceed.

New plugs already in.
What are the plug wire resistances?
Which wire is power wire on ignitor? Any resistance I should check on that?
My car came with no fuse box covers. Where is the ECU fuse?
Which pin is the ignitor on the ECU?
Lastly, I've read the crank sensor is a pain to get to. Roughly how much time needs to be invested to get to it and check it/change it? Any shortcuts?

If anyone has anything extra for me to check, I would appreciate it.

whinin

iTrader: (1)

So I guess I'm on the right track then since no one responded.

Anyways, I got around to checking some things.

Crank sensor resistance measured on 2000 ohm setting
1) @ 1135 ohms (1.135k)
2) @ 1145 ohms (1.145k)
So, those are good. Cleaned off the surfaces with scotch brite pad for good measure.

Checked continuity between ECU and:
NE signal - .007 ohm
G signal - .006 ohm
Ground (I'm guessing it's ground, each measure at the same pin on ECU) .007 ohm

Map sensor - .007 ohm
Igniter - .007 ohm
Circuit opening relay - .007 ohm

So now my thinking of crank or ECU is gone. So now I think I separate spark and fuel issues.
Fuel is more than likely the injectors since I have replaced the pump, strainer, and filter as well as cleaned out the tank and I have good pressure at the feed line.

So any way to check the igniter with stuff laying around the garage?
Left to check.
-Igniter
-Coils
-Plug wires.

Anyone selling a good used igniter?