TII777

iTrader: (2)

So heres the deal.. The S5 TII motor i have came with a aftermarket pulley on it.. It has 7 consecutive marks all looking to be about 5 degrees apart, and there is one mark way left (counterC) from the 7...I couldn't find any info on the pulley. I don't think its made anymore..

In order to find 0 or TDC and find out if this pulley was put on correctly and what marks were what, i pulled both rear rotor plugs. Lined up the rear rotor apex seal centered on the trailing plug hole, made a mark, then lined up the same seal on the leading plug hole, made a mark, then measured the distance between the 2 and center should be close to TDC... I found that the center mark of the 7 was 0..Lined the mark up at 0 degrees, stabbed the CAS per the FSM, then went in the ECU and locked timing at 0 degrees..disabled injectors, and cranked to see if any CAS adjustment would need to be made to get it dead on before starting...The marks were way off..i have a base trigger angle of 65..I know that this number can be increased to try and zero it in, but in my past experience these settings usually land you within 1 or 2 degrees, and its firing nowhere close...so for the hell of it I decided to adjust trigger angle until it was on... I was unable to go high enough to get it there, in fact the only trigger angle I can get it to fire at 0 with is 15 degrees, which is obviously messed up and makes no sense to me.. After getting it to 0, i unlocked timing, confirmed both leading at 0, and trailing at its 15 split..decided to start it to see what it would do...It fired right up and idles at a ridiculous 2950rpms...

I did some checking for a vacuum leak to see if that was raising the idle, but found none..throttle is closed all the way, so Im thinking this is all timing/trigger issue? Could the timing issue cause a really high idle speed? It doesn't sound bad at 2950, pretty smooth actually..

Now one thing I noticed is on the Elite you choose your trigger from a drop down menu.. I chose the 13b fc3s trigger..It auto enters in the number of teeth and tooth offset when you do this..It shows 12 teeth with 2 missing..I thought the CAS was a 24-2? I haven't set up a ecu in 15 years, and that was on a old e6k, but I was pretty sure you used to select distributor, 24 tooth, 2 missing, and a trigger angle of 65, and the base elite has it at 12 tooth with 2 missing, and had the trigger angle at 90...I changed the trigger angle but would those other default settings cause this issue? thoughts? Just can't figure out why this motor will not time or idle correctly.

TII777

iTrader: (2)

I found a leak doing a smoke test...it now idles at 1k to 1200...i thought I had low vacuum but it turns out my MAP sensor is not reading correctly..though calibrated off the available calibration file, it is showing -9in vacuum while the industrial gauge I hooked up to the manifold shows -16 to -18, and matches my boost gauge.....

I'm still curious if it is ok to have such a different trigger angle...why is it that I need a -50° adjustment to my trigger angle to get it to fire at the right time?

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

1) To stab the CAS per FSM, you set the crank at 10 ATDC, not TDC. So that's your first issue. But, it's really not. You can stab the CAS anywhere and take up the difference with ECU programming. If you stab the CAS per FSM, the trigger angle ends up being about 5*.
2) You assume the Elite should have a trigger angle of 65* because that's in the area of what the older Haltech ECUs used. The Elite uses a completely different trigger scheme so what worked before has no bearing on what you'll do with the Elite. The old ECUs also used a tooth offset value which isn't part of the Elite setup. The easy way to explain it is to say what you knew from the old ECUs has nothing to do with the Elite.
3) If you locked the timing at 0*, shot L1 with a light and it lined up, you're good. I always go back and do a dynamic check with the engine running and rev it with the timing locked to make sure it doesn't drift. With your pulley giving you the option to lock at different values, I'd lock it at 10* BTDC so that it idles and revs more easily with the timing locked.
4) The CAS is a 24+(plus)2 pattern. But, since it rotates at half crank speed the ECU sees 12+1 per crank rotation. So that's why Haltech calls it a 12+1.
5) Your MAP sensor is probably reading correctly just reading in PSI. PSI is about half in/hg. So 9 psi at vacuum would be 18 in/hg, roughly.

TII777

iTrader: (2)

i feel so much better..thank you for the info and help...so does haltech just put the trigger angle at 90* just as a starting point for all triggers? You either add or subtract to the trigger angle until you have it firing on the mark and the end number is your trigger angle?

TII777

iTrader: (2)

car is running flawlessly...After 2.5 years it feels good to be able to rev it up and hear it purr...only thing I'm yet to get working is the tach..its hooked up to DPO1, 12v pull up enabled..started with 2 pulses per cycle..needle jumps all over while cranking then soon as the car starts and is running the needle drops dead to 0 and doesn't move..changing the pulses per cycle hasn't changed a thing...its wired to the Y/BLue wire by the brake booster that had the bullet connector on it

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

That's the correct setup. What coils are you using?

TII777

iTrader: (2)

Aem smart coils

C. Ludwig

iTrader: (27)

You have the correct settings. I'd double check continuity between the ECU and cluster.