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Haltech Erratic Spark E11v2

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Old Oct 31, 2009 | 09:05 PM
  #1  
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Erratic Spark E11v2

After all these years I'm finally ready to fire up my NA 20b. I'm showing an rpm signal on the Halwin gauge page, but when I ground ANY spark plug to ground (to check for spark), all I get is two sparks. The engine will crank for about 4seconds then I will get two quick sparks, then 4 seconds later, I will get two more quick sparks. This happens on any plug wire lead comming from my Ls1 coils. My cranking rpms are dropping as my battery is getting weaker. Crank rpms are showing around 120rpms. Anyways here are my specifics:

E11v2 1.89 software build 35 firmware
NA 20b ITB'S
Fd front trigger
Milispec Harness
Ls1 Coils
Trigger Angle 65
Tooth offset 11
Direct Fire
Constant Charge
Falling Edge
5ms
Internal Reluctor
Trigger Edge Falling
Home Edge Falling
Trigger/Home Filters 1
Trigger/Home Gains 2
Timming Locked at -5 with 15 on the split.

I'm trying to follow the tips and set-up page as best I came but can't figure out this weird spark problem. Any help would be greatly appreciated


Oh yea I just recently uploaded build 35 firmware to elliminate some software glitching I had. Since I never had an original map, I never uploaded a Default Map after doing the firmware update. Could that be my problem?
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Old Oct 31, 2009 | 10:10 PM
  #2  
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From: Floyds Knobs. IN
1) You need to load the default map after you do the firmware update. No way around that. Go back and do it again.
2) The cranking RPM is low. What is the voltage dropping to as you're cranking it? Possible the voltage is low enough while cranking that you don't have enough power to create a spark. It happens and sounds like a distinct possibility if you're only seeing 120 RPM. Charge the battery, pull the plugs out of the engine, and crank it while checking for spark. You should see 250+ RPM while cranking.
3) Drop the filter and gain to zero to start.
4) I've always ended up with a tooth offset of 10 with the FD. Just zero your timing once you get it firing correctly. Don't be surprised if 11 doesn't work.
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by C. Ludwig
1) You need to load the default map after you do the firmware update. No way around that. Go back and do it again.
2) The cranking RPM is low. What is the voltage dropping to as you're cranking it? Possible the voltage is low enough while cranking that you don't have enough power to create a spark. It happens and sounds like a distinct possibility if you're only seeing 120 RPM. Charge the battery, pull the plugs out of the engine, and crank it while checking for spark. You should see 250+ RPM while cranking.
3) Drop the filter and gain to zero to start.
4) I've always ended up with a tooth offset of 10 with the FD. Just zero your timing once you get it firing correctly. Don't be surprised if 11 doesn't work.


Ok I'll do the firmware again and load the default map this time. Do I use the regular detault or the default e8 version? Once this is done I just need to reload all my above info again with me also changing some of the settings your suggesting? I'll get my battery situation taken care of as well.
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 12:18 PM
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From: Floyds Knobs. IN
Originally Posted by t-von
Ok I'll do the firmware again and load the default map this time. Do I use the regular detault or the default e8 version? Once this is done I just need to reload all my above info again with me also changing some of the settings your suggesting? I'll get my battery situation taken care of as well.

The default map is the one that loads when the software first opens. It should be saved when the software was first downloaded, but if you can't find it, just open the software offline and save what opens.

After you do that you can just reload what you have right now and make changes to that.
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 01:57 PM
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Well I reloaded the firmware, default base map, and recharged the battery. I relocated it back to the engine bay to make sure I wasn't getting any unneccessary voltage drops. I've been using 0 gauge wire. When the battery was in the bin I was showing 12.6 volts. It dropped down to 10.2 while cranking the engine. When I re tested the voltage again with the battery back in the engine bay, it showed the exact same voltage drop on the Halwin gauge page. Cranking rpms are 220 now. My ecu's positive leads are wire directly to the battery. I'm still having the exact same spark problem.


Edit: Also on the advance settings page, I changed the firing angle to:

1,2,3
0,120,240

Is that right?
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 02:19 PM
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From: Floyds Knobs. IN
Everything is setup right as far as what you have posted. I'd try sticking some clean plugs in the leads and grounding the plug to the fender or engine block to see if the plug actually arcs instead or trying to get an arc out of the wire.

Open a display page to watch "trigger at last home" while you are cranking the engine. Or log it if that is easier. You should see a constant 12. If that number fluctuates you have an issue with the trigger.
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Old Nov 1, 2009 | 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by C. Ludwig
Open a display page to watch "trigger at last home" while you are cranking the engine. Or log it if that is easier. You should see a constant 12. If that number fluctuates you have an issue with the trigger.


Yep I definetly had a problem there at the home trigger. The counter would go all the way up to 255 and start over. I had a couple extra triggers lying around and none of them were the problem. It turned out that I still incorrectly wired the home signal wire. My Milispec harness really caused me some growing pains and confusion with the diagrams on the tips and set-up page. All plugs are now sparking properly. I finally was able to plug in the injectors and she fired up. I bought this 20b engine nearly 6 1/2 yrs ago. And to finally hear it roar! Man I'll tell yea! I have the biggest **** eating grin you could imagine. I'm also supprised how well it already idles considering that I built the intake from the intake flang all the way up to the ITB's. I really appreciate all the help.
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Old Nov 2, 2009 | 03:46 AM
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From: Floyds Knobs. IN
Good deal!
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