Does this look like a fouled plug
#1
Full Member
Thread Starter
Does this look like a fouled plug
Having issue with car not starting. Car died out while i was driving, got it towed back to my house about two months ago. Car will crank and i can smell petrol but wont fire so i thought it might be the spark plugs. What do you guys make of these?
Edit: The background to the car breaking down is that i was out late on a friday night for some spirited driving, started it up to drive to work on the saturday morning and drove mint. When i went to drive home, she started up fine and about halfway back i had to slam on my breaks for some old lady. The abs definitely came on and that was the first time during my ownership they have (for what its worth).
Literally 30 seconds after that my car just cut out on me while i was driving, I started it back up and it drove fine for another 10 minutes when i got to an intersection and it cut out again, only this time it wouldnt fire. It would crank, and if i mashed the gas it might catch and splutter a tiny bit but really i was getting nothing.
Fast forward two months and here i am, please help me guys im desperate to get my car back on the road.
Edit: The background to the car breaking down is that i was out late on a friday night for some spirited driving, started it up to drive to work on the saturday morning and drove mint. When i went to drive home, she started up fine and about halfway back i had to slam on my breaks for some old lady. The abs definitely came on and that was the first time during my ownership they have (for what its worth).
Literally 30 seconds after that my car just cut out on me while i was driving, I started it back up and it drove fine for another 10 minutes when i got to an intersection and it cut out again, only this time it wouldnt fire. It would crank, and if i mashed the gas it might catch and splutter a tiny bit but really i was getting nothing.
Fast forward two months and here i am, please help me guys im desperate to get my car back on the road.
Last edited by Aramir; 09-26-15 at 05:11 PM.
#3
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Thread Starter
So should i replace them, or can i try repair them and brush the crap off?
Also are these the best plugs i could be using, theyre BUR9EQ top and BUR7EQ BOTTOM
These are the plugs, im assuming they are the factory mazda ones? if so i should probably replace them since theyd be about 22 years old right
Also are these the best plugs i could be using, theyre BUR9EQ top and BUR7EQ BOTTOM
These are the plugs, im assuming they are the factory mazda ones? if so i should probably replace them since theyd be about 22 years old right
Last edited by Aramir; 09-26-15 at 02:09 AM.
#7
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Thread Starter
The background to the car breaking down is that i was out late on a friday night for some spirited driving, started it up to drive to work on the saturday morning and drove mint. When i went to drive home, she started up fine and about halfway back i had to slam on my breaks for some old lady. The abs definitely came on and that was the first time during my ownership they have (for what its worth).
Literally 30 seconds after that my car just cut out on me while i was driving, I started it back up and it drove fine for another 10 minutes when i got to an intersection and it cut out again, only this time it wouldnt fire. It would crank, and if i mashed the gas it might catch and splutter a tiny bit but really i was getting nothing.
Fast forward two months and here i am, please help me guys im desperate to get my car back on the road.
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#8
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Update: Have compression tested the car, was getting 35 psi bounces on both front and back rotors with the release valve pressed down, and showing a max of 87 psi front and 90 rear.
What do you guys make of these results?
What do you guys make of these results?
#9
roTAR needz fundZ
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by Aramir
Update: Have compression tested the car, was getting 35 psi bounces on both front and back rotors with the release valve pressed down, and showing a max of 87 psi front and 90 rear.
What do you guys make of these results?
What do you guys make of these results?
Either way, the bounces are what really matter, shes shot
#10
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#16
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#18
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#20
Sharp Claws
iTrader: (30)
holding the release valve on the tester is the lame way of doing a compression test. remove the schraeder valve from the hose on the tester and don't touch the release valve on the gauge for a more accurate result.
35 is rather normal for the lame test though, so i doubt your engine is toast just yet.
i'd start by checking the fuses, EGI and engine in particular.
if you want any more advice you should probably list what model car you have.......
35 is rather normal for the lame test though, so i doubt your engine is toast just yet.
i'd start by checking the fuses, EGI and engine in particular.
if you want any more advice you should probably list what model car you have.......
Last edited by RotaryEvolution; 09-29-15 at 08:45 AM.
#21
Okay
Okay, hope you get it up and running again. I will be checking up on this tread to see if you ever got it on the road again mate. please keep us posted in any update or issues that you came across.
#22
Senior Member
You should get new plugs if anything regardless. Mines always get fouled and i have to changes them pretty often. The 1st time it happen to me i was car less for 3 weeks trying to figure out what was wrong. I put new spark plugs in.. the car started in the 1st try.
#23
roTAR needz fundZ
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by aeenox
You should get new plugs if anything regardless. Mines always get fouled and i have to changes them pretty often. The 1st time it happen to me i was car less for 3 weeks trying to figure out what was wrong. I put new spark plugs in.. the car started in the 1st try.
#25
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Thread Starter
Ok guys so today my car is officially back on the road.
What I found was that my fuel pump power feed was broken somewhere, I'm not sure where to be honest because I just ran a new 4mm cable straight from the battery (which I relocated to the boot) into the fuel pump, switched by a relay that is triggered from the ignition being switched on.
For those that are wondering, by passing 9v/12v two stage system and running constant 12v to the pump has next to no effect, car seems to run exactly the same as before.
Anyways, what I think my issues with the starting was, when I had the auto electrician around and he diagnosed the fuel pump problem, he ran a temporary feed to the pump and turned the car over. It started of course but he killed it after a second. This flooded the engine I'm guessing, as when I compression tested the car a heap of fuel vapour streamed out. As soon as the new spark plugs were I she fired right up
What I found was that my fuel pump power feed was broken somewhere, I'm not sure where to be honest because I just ran a new 4mm cable straight from the battery (which I relocated to the boot) into the fuel pump, switched by a relay that is triggered from the ignition being switched on.
For those that are wondering, by passing 9v/12v two stage system and running constant 12v to the pump has next to no effect, car seems to run exactly the same as before.
Anyways, what I think my issues with the starting was, when I had the auto electrician around and he diagnosed the fuel pump problem, he ran a temporary feed to the pump and turned the car over. It started of course but he killed it after a second. This flooded the engine I'm guessing, as when I compression tested the car a heap of fuel vapour streamed out. As soon as the new spark plugs were I she fired right up
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