So I looked for other posts regarding this but they all see,s to be related to modified issues. I have a 95 FD mostly stock. I tried to start it today and nothing. The battery is new and power is fine. I hear 1 click and starter doesn’t even attempt to engage. . Does this sound like the solenoid or could it be the clutch switch. Because I can hear the solenoid give 1 click it’s got me spinning. Maybe an electrical ground issue ? Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

There’s some easy things you can do to help figure out what’s going on, and this is one of the most common no-start symptoms you could have.

I’m sure you’re familiar with The old trick of “smacking” or poking the starter? Get a broom handle and give the starter a few good jabs. This can jar loose the internals if you have a failing starter, and often allow the car to crank.

If you’re able/willing to get under the car, ensure the car is in neutral, and simply jump the starter solenoid connection to the battery lug, physically at the starter. Easiest to just use a long screwdriver for this, but you could also use a piece of wire. If the starter spins immediately you know you have an issue with voltage on the starter circuit and can trace through the circuit with a multimeter, clutch switch being an easy place to start. If you have the same symptom even with the jumper then I would recommend pulling the starter and having it tested (under load by a parts store, not just free spinning on a bench), but anticipate it to fail and replace with new/rebuilt.

 

the non Lazy way would be to pop the small wire off the starter and see if it gets 12V with the key in the start position. if yes, then its the starter, if no then you go through the circuit.

the starter circuit is basically the ignition switch -> clutch switch that goes bad all the time because its an add on for the US market -> the alarm relay -> starter

the lazy way is to hold the key in the start position and pump the clutch, if it clicks and then eventually cranks, you need to replace or remove the clutch switch.

 

Don't overlook the ground circuit. Many time a failed ground has caused just the symptoms you describe.

 

So 1 click and nothing. I have replaced the starter and the cutch switch with no change. Can someone explain the ground circuit and where it’s at. Or maybe it’s the ignition switch itself. I upgraded the starter to the 2kw knowing that the starter may have not been the issue.

 

I tried to make a post but it took too long and i got kicked off the forum and lost the post.

So I'll make this quick,

try voltage drop testing you can google it.

here is a decent link I found https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/A...e-Drop-Testing

 

The ground circuit includes those connectors and connections from the negative post of the battery to the various points on the body and the engine. The cables need to be corrosion free, the connections clean and tight. The same is true for the positive circuit, but it seems the ground circuit is most often overlooked.
A good idea would be to download all of the available info on your car from
Foxed.ca - Mazda RX-7 Manuals

 

how do I address the ground circuit. I’ve replaced starter, ignition switch, clutch start switch and added 50 amp relay kit. Still won’t start. I’m at a loss. It’s started twice randomly since the issue started. Started right after I had a custom detail. Note that the detailed did not spray water in engine. I’m at a loss.

 

Start at the battery negative post and look for corrosion, follow the ground cable to the next connection and repeat, follow each and every related cable and connection to ground. Remove any corrosion you find. When you have done this, you will have located any ground faults if you have any. It is the only way I know how to do it.

 

Thank you 🙏🏼

 

Quickie
One jumper cable from battery negative post to the bell housing and the other from the battery positive post to the solenoid. Test solenoid and starter by putting positive voltage on the solenoid start terminal.
I'll try to post a picture

 

You'll need to check voltage at the starter when cranking like j9fd3s mentioned, both at the S terminal and at the B+ terminal. You should have roughly the same voltage that your battery has at the S terminal and maybe 0.5 - 1 volt less at the B+ when cranking.
If you are losing a lot of your voltage at the S terminal, you will be investigating the clutch switch, starter relay, 15 amp engine fuse, and ignition switch.
If you are losing a lot of your voltage at the B+, you need to do a voltage drop test on both the power side and the ground side like Vicoor mentioned.

https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/H...or%20tightness.