I have 1993 FD touring I picked up last Sunday, its bone stock and 53000 miles.

It sat for 5 years, wont start obviously, so I trailered it home. Let me state the car is mint and absolutely untouched except a new radiator replaced by mazda. All plastic and vacuum lines are very fresh and pliable believe it or not.

I do own another single turbo fd so I am familiar enough with Rotary's and have a handful of people around me.

I followed standard procedures for getting a sitting car ready to run.
https://www.aaroncake.net/rx-7/unstore.htm

The car just turns over, no grumble, no putter, nothing..even trying starter fluid. It is almost like the timing is off, however, there is fuel, there is spark, one would think it would at least try to combust.

Before you have the inkling to jump my case about not researching, please read below. I have researched this and always leads to bad compression, no spark, no fuel etc....that is not the case here.
Obviously there is a lot of information out there and I cant read through it all.

The known:
I have new battery and also jump it with my WRX running to get full crank.
I have spark and new spark plugs. ngk 7 for leading 9 for trailing. The wires all lead to the proper locations as I copied it off my running FD and triple checked online sources. L1 bottom left, T1 top left, T2 Top right, L2 bottom right
I have new fuel, filter, and have flushed the lines using the diagnostics jumper.
I am getting fuel to the chamber but have also removed fuel pump fuse and used starter fluid..nothing, I know for sure I am getting fuel because I have flooded multiple times trying all the methods.
I am confident with the compression, however, I have a rotary compression checker coming tomorrow to verify. I can tell you I have strong flow out of the exhaust when cranking and strong suction at the throttle body.
I have done the MMO and Premix methods, I have done each at least 4 times up to 24 hours rotating the crank 1 full rotation every 6-8 hours. Saving the ATF for after the compression check if necessary.
CEL 40 Solenoid Valve, Purge Control - open or short

The Unknown:
Bad Sensors to check? Crank angle, TPS?
Would the diagnostics tool catch these without the engine running?
Fuel pump does not prime when key is turned, but you can it hear it run for about 5 seconds after cranking. Is this normal? I am used to priming prior to cranking.

Any help would be wonderful, I have never owned a absolutely stock FD before so I am sure I am missing a trick or 2.

Thanks
Myles

 

How do you know you have spark?

As for the fuel pump priming, i hear mine. Have you check fuel pressure? You can T in a gauge. You may want to pull you injectors and test per the FSM (and send out for cleaning). It should start with starting fluid if it's a (lack of) fuel issue. It may not start if you have an injector stuck open.

What compression did you read. Did you get consistent pulses

If you still have the stock ECU, you can check if it's throwing any codes

If all fails, Banzai Racing may be near you

 

Start with a compression test. Fuel pump should prime when the key is turned to the on position.

 

TomU,
I have checked spark on all four plugs by the old school screwdriver in the plug wire. I have also pulled the all the plugs, plugged them into the spark plug wire and checking spark from the tip to the block. Any other suggestions?
I will check pressure, it has really good flow visually but I know that doesnt mean much necessarily. I will check with a t and a gauge.
It will not start with starting fluid and fuel pump fuse pulled(so I know its only starter fluid).
My Rotary Compression Tester will be here tomorrow so I will get solid numbers tomorrow, but I have compared it to the pulsing and pressure coming out of the spark plug holes to my other that runs and no noticeable difference. Once again, doesnt mean much, not actual data.
Its all stock, I have been using the diagnostics plug and jumping to check CEL. I am getting a code 40 which is 40 Solenoid Valve, Purge Control - open or short circuit, but cant find any information on whether that is occurring because it wont start or keeping it from starting. I forgot to add that to the original post.

 

Will get my Rotary Compression Tester tomorrow from Mishawaka.
Right now what is concerning me is that common consensus is the pump should be priming when the key is in the on position. It definitely is running after I stop cranking for about 5 seconds.
Would the CEL 40 Solenoid Valve, Purge Control - open or short circuit keep the ecu from priming initially?

Thank you

 

Starting to sound a bit like a possible grounding issue somewhere to me. I thought I checked them all but maybe I missed one. Will check those tonight as well.

 

It has been sitting for 5 years, pull the fuel pump out and inspect it. You can easily jumper the fuel pump at the diagnostics box and make it run continuously.

What ECU do you have in your other car?

 

I already have had it out, first thing I checked when I got it home. Its in great shape, I tested it with my desktop power supply, and moves fuel great. I will post a pressure reading this evening when I get home and hook up a gauge. I made it run continuously with the diagnostic box when I purged all the fuel lines to get out all the old fuel.

Apologies, I misread your ecu question. It is a haltech sprint ecu and is wired in using the stock system.

 

Fuel pressure is 38-40 psi using the diagnostics jumper