Your mom sounds gay.

Tee-hee.

I will try hockey puck mounts. Any ideas what to do for everything else? I'm wanting to replace my trailing arm bushings, lower control arm bushings and the trans mount as well. I dunno. If anything it will make the go pedal more responsive. It doesn't bother me to get a motor massage sitting in my seat. What bothers me is hearing all the noises my **** makes just rolling down the street.

 

Back on the topic of those damn sway bars....

I can't sleep because i'm rather disappointed in myself after every one of my slide sessions after getting the car "ready" resulted in spin, spin, spin except for one time where i let the dynamics of the car do all the work and was a bitch with the throttle. I DO NOT like to drive that way. It's boring and i'm sure it looks lame from outside the car.

I've been thinking back to when the car had a 2 way and no sways. Stepping the rear out and NOT spinning, even with full juice was awesome. Just counter and smoothly come out of the drift. I put the sways on to stiffen things up so my wheels aren't all over the place and because i read if you daily your car, it's good to keep them in.

Well i daily my car and get the urge to slide here and there. Especially tonight b/c it rained. I have spun out nearly every time. I had a good drift going around a light pole and was going to transition and hit a figure eight around the adjacent pole. Before i even made it to the point where i wanted to transition, i spun. I was trying to use my throttle to get more angle and for sure had enough momentum to keep it without spinning and snapped over into a spin. No loss of front grip and i didn't hear any rub on my front sway (tires wont hit the sway anyway, rim does...just barely). I attempted this about 3 times before i decided i was at my spot too long and didn't want to wreck my car or get impounded.

Anyway, enough banter. Opinions on NORMAL ROAD/STREET driving with the rear bar removed only. I'm keeping the front one connected for now.

 

i have no reasoning for or against this statement. just how i had it... lol

when i street cruised my TII i had the front removed (rubbing issues with it on)
but i left the rear sway on.... (never felt like removing it.)

the car drifted/drove fine with it like that.

BUT then i smashed my **** into a wall pretty bad, and swapped subframes. at that time i removed the rear swaybar and daily'd the car for the week before FD vegas, and i honestly have to say it was somewhat sketchy at 80+mph. anything under and i didnt notice it...

then again, i didnt notice any benefits from removing them. im so used to having a shitty feeling car that i just dont know what helps and doesnt... i just adapt, and drive.

the only thing from removing/running them in the above sequences that i honestly did notice was that at 80+mph the car was twitchy in the rear like i had low air pressure in the rear. it just felt like it would take off if it got worse.

but i wouldnt say you cant street drive without them... do it. you have coils, so your car is stiff. plus your NA so you're never going to go passed 120mph ever in it so just cruise.

 

I disconnected mine at the track one day and drove an hour plus home without reconnecting and it was fine. Felt fine for normal cruising and such.

 

cool beans. I have no desire to go over 60-65 (posted speed limit is 55) on the street anyway unless i'm passing someone or want to hear my upshift buzzer in second gear.

I'll give it a go then.

 

Your wheels and tires are wider than mine so you should be fine. I didnt take the bar off, I just bulled out one of the bolts and through it my glove box

 

Hey I'm looking for some good setups for an fd. It is an r1 model with an ls2.

 

Well an LS2 will give you more than enough power, so... LSD, Coilovers, Driver Mod

 

this is my build up to date so far... still a work in progress for DRFT

Engine:
Stock 13b 6-port
Racing beat header
full straight pipe exhaust 2.5" to single flowmaster muffler

Suspension:
PBM coilovers 10k/8k
JTP camber mod
racing beat DTSS eliminators
tanabe rear sway bar
rear amber link

Wheels:
ARE mesh staggered 16x7/16x8

 

Does anyone know what alignment specs dudes like JTP, Essa, and Mohan used to run in their FC's? Or are you guys on this site?

Had my fc with ls1 out for the first time on sunday and it felt awesome, really easy to control and keep at full lock with knuckles and custom inner rack ends very similar to mazdatrix ones. have every bushing and adjustable arm from mmr, custom rear toe rods, 25mm longer front balljoints with extra castor built in.

alignment i was running was pretty basic, just based of my previous s-chassis experiences:
fr camber -5.2deg
fr toe neutral
rr camber -1deg
rr toe neutral

the problem i'm having, is the car doesn't feel like it wants to hook up when i put the power down. It's just baking the tyres. my first though is heaps more toe in in the rear? maybe .5 or 0degree camber in the rear? running 265's. stock ls1.

thanks fc bros

 

I'm sorry but this sounds completely backwards to me. The only time I ever have to left foot brake is when I'm following a slower car, or if I want to really pour on the smoke. I think that less camber and less tire pressure is what you need. Just my opinion.

 

yeah, in my experience left foot braking makes for more tire speed/more smoke while maintain a stable vehicle speed.

Maybe toe out/camber out the rear a bit. if the car is squating hard under acceleration, it might toe in/camber in a little too much and reduce your tire's contact patch.

or maybe its not squating enough like the rear is just too bouncy. Maybe try backing of the rear dampening a little so it cant squat down and push down on the rear end

shitty, overheated tires wont ever hook up, even if they are 265s...especially on a LS1
idk man, i could come up with ideas all day long but i probably could give you a solid answer

 

What springrates?

What tire pressure?

Corner weighed?

More toe will give you better recoverability, but not necessarily more rotational grip.

Check how much dynamic camber you are running, once the susp. is compressed.

Also, if you are bottoming out the strut, then you will have an infinite springrate, and you will lose traction. If the springrate is too high, the suspension will not be doing it's job very well either.

Tires are where it all happens. Try going to a larger tire, or lowering pressure. Measure tire temps after a hot lap, if you have uneven temps across the tread, you may want to get back into alignment.

Talk to some drag race guys who are running FC's down there... they will give you a desired straight line grip alignment, which you could try and incorporate into a track set-up.

 

Id run more rear toe in, neutral never felt right on my car.

The front will feel better toed out a touch with knuckles too.

 

You're only gonna get so much grip on Nankangs.

 

Nankangs are by far the worst tire i have ever ran in terms of compound.

They are waaaay too hard. They chunk ran forwards or backwards and if you drift cheese grater....well i hope you didn't pay more than $20 per tire.

Well, i take that back. The NSI's i had were better than the nsII's. Kumho ecsta were better than both. Really. I think they were 280 or 300aa though. nankangs are 340aa.

I've never smoked bct s800's (china tire but lotta front grip, even in the wet, atleast for my shitty low power car) or 595's but i want to.

 

oh yea, 60+ psi smokes like crazy. doesnt chunk as much as nankangs

 

I like my Nexen n3000. I run them at 40psi front and 45 psi rear. Even at that pressure they have great grip in the rain (which I didn't expect at all). I think with v8 torque they would smoke all day, but I'm not really sure

 

I mean, i've never actually slid on them. Never ran em out back.

They're a softer tire which is why i'm interested in them.

Nankangs smoked just as much on 70 psi than they do at 40 psi. 595's just have that reputation for wearing down very evenly and stay consistent

 

love me or hate but i dont believe a fc3s doesnt need fancy mods like more steering angle or sway bars removed. you need more seat time. i have drove/drifted my fc for 5 years and i have learned all the ins and outs. i adapted to the fact that i cant push my rear end out as far as my 240 becuz 9 times out of ten my fc spins out so i do not have huge angles but i am sidewayz and i am putting up smoke. i am not a professional so i dont need all those doodads to make my car do crazy angles. i drifting is drifting. lil angle or outrageous. learn your car and keep it reliable. that is the secret of being a racer period. i do reccomend small things that will make a lil easier such as springs/coil overs to lower your center of gravity.

My point being is get more seat time. FC's are not a begginers drift car like a 240sx. it is for the experienced driver/drifter.

have fun and keep it sidewayz!!

 

also lol find some dry rotted tires that will hold air. talk about crazy smoke and easy to slide like on gravel lol. ive done it twice and drift events to get the crowd going. it worked

 

^^ I hate you.....JK.

I don't disagree that any car can be used without much modification, but many people want the bigger angles and more smoke, and some want to thrive in competitions. That sort of driving will require modification.

 

true. i fully agree man. i was just saying that cuz i have good freinds that are bum that they cant drift awesome after 5 months of owning the car and they think they need crazy mods to start out. which is not true. as you progress as a driver you need to progress with your car and start modifing and have do it lol drifting is all about having fun and you dont need a crazy bad *** monster do that.

My current mods:
Bride Bucket seat with f4 point nrg harness
E-Bay quick release steering wheel a freind gave me :P
new sway bar bushings
rear strut tower bar
quick release front bumper so i can remove during comps to keep my rotary cool
also electric fan
tein springs
3 inch exhust to apexi muff muff lol

future mods:
full coilovers
wheel spacers
half bridgeported 13b dropping in one day
cage
some deep dish rims
full body kit
new brake setup not sure what i want
and im installing my custom hydrallic ebrake very soon

 

what? when did I ever say I'm a beginner. I don't have a million dollar budget where i can do alignments at the track so would like to try something that another high power/top level drifter has tried. and who wouldn't want more steering angle, it rocks!!

left foot braking is never going to make you faster through a corner. I was left foot braking when following slower cars on the weekend to pull my line further outward and keep rear wheel speed up. this was the same technique i've used regardless of the vehicle I'm driving.

tyre pressures were 40psi, then dropped to 35psi, a noticeable difference in grip but I could tell it wasn't the tyres fault for the lack of grip under power. My silvia has alot more power and runs narrower nankang tyres at 42psi, but feels more grippy under acceleration than the fc. maybe it's to do with how much lighter the fc is?

how does the trailing arm react as opposed to s-chassis in the rear? I know with silvias, you get heaps more negative camber under compression, is this the same with fc3s?

I'm running HSD (stance gr+pro) i think they're 8kg/6kg? full soft in the rear, two up from soft in the front. no sways front or rear. front feels all good, it's the rear that feels vague.

I've got a big wing at home I'm chucking on for next track day. I think I'll try like 2mm toe in each side on the rear, and .5deg camber.

DaveEdge, good ideas dude. I do know someone that has corner weight, so I might try to setup my car on those and use the alignment jack to pull the rear down to the bumpstops and see how it changes the camber/toe angles.

thanks for all the advice, whether it's stupid or good it's still better than figuring it out on my own in the short amount of time i have before competition really gets underway.

 

I almost took that guy serious until he sidewayz...ZZZZZZZ