edit: oops, forgot there was another page.lol, ignore this.

 

sorry everyone. didnt mean to make anyone think is was directly talking to them. i was just talking in general. drifting is all about having fun so keep that way bros. to be honest im still working on the heal toe trick. i wear size 13 so its easy do it but somtimes i press to hard on the brakes. but a very great technique also rev matching will save ur trany when under great strains like drifting. happy drifting!!

 

rotary junkie: although not often used to initiate drifts, there is a technique commonly called "shift lock" where you downshift right before the corner with no rev match to initiate your drift. basically shifts your weight to the back when you get back on the gas after the quick down shift. essentially the same effect of a good clutch kick. not many use it as clutch kicking is easier I guess. but might be easier on the clutch and harder on the tranny?lol. most people would rather change their clutch I'm sure. just another technique.

 

I thought a shift lock was the complete opposite of a clutch kick. (For the record I've never shift locked) My idea of it was that you down shift with no revs so it locks the rear wheels, like using the e-brake, this slowing would shift the weight of the car forward and when you hit the gas you would be in a lower more powerful gear. This is all just speculation from me though.

 

You're using the clutch to lock the wheels. It's the same a clutch kick just changing gears, like if you came into a turn mid third you'd down shift and be in high second. Which as the same as kicking the clutch at the top of second... That's my thought at least.

 

The way I've done a clutch kick doesn't lock the rear wheels. (Maybe I'm doing it wrong) But the rear wheels don't lock, they break loose. When I've done it I hit the clutch and the rpms go up in the same gear and then re-engage the drivetrain and the rear wheels spin faster than they did before. No locking about it.

 

Maybe locking is the wrong word. Idk, they sound like they show do the same thing.

 

Deciding to up my spring rates for next year. Think 8/6 or 8/7, maybe 7/5 idk yet. Thoughts?

Also need to toe adjusters for the rear. What's a good alignment for the rear?

 

shift lock is used to initiate the drift.. doesnt anyone watch drift bible anymore?

top of second you come to the corner, press in clutch and let rpm drop to idle speeds basically, let the clutch go, the speed difference between the engine and rear end will cause the wheels to lock. once they lock the rear will slide out if your timing is right, then just press the gas.

shift lock is retarded easy, easier than even ebrake imo. people say its bad for components, which i can understand, but i have never had a mechanical failure due to the technique. i havent used shift lock for years now, but that is how i learned. race to a corner, clutch in, turn in, clutch out, hammer down, brag about how im d1 material..

 

The super drifts on my FC use 8/6. They feel pretty good. The valving is different from the flexes, but the higher spring rate will still make your ride stiffer I think.

 

Hmm that makes more sense. I'd always clutch kick and not let the RPMs drop and just end up spinning.

 

I just need to reduce the body roll by a tad and the valving on the flex shouldn't kill me for DDing.

 

ive used shift lock a couple of times but i never really drift any faster then 50 mph. especially at the track that im given to drift on. its soooooo tiny. lol clutch kicken and power over is mainly what i do all the small course but when street drifting i have done shift lock a couple of times. Also i learned as im sliding and giving it some gas.....if i feel like im about to spin out i let off and let the car continue to slide and then give gas when i feel i have control from spinning again. this all goes back to what i originally said. more seat time and as you drive/drift more you can adapt to how your car controls. thanks everyone with tips. maybe some day with the help of cash i might make it big lol

 

Diff question, on the mazdatrix site they have the KAAZ 2-way for both n/a and turbo. Are the same strength, just built for the different stub shafts? And if I was going to upgrade power would it make sense to get the turbo version with the TII stub shafts? (On a side note which stub shafts should I get, the shorter ones or the longer ones? Or doesn't it matter)

Also anyone know how well the n/a trannies hold up? I'm thinking of doing a heavy port (heavy street or bridge maybe PP) NA build way down the road and wanted to know thoughts on the transmission. I've killed the original that was in the car (50k+ daily driven and some track miles) after a few minutes of high rev 1st gear clutch kicks... so worth it lol.

 

. Voodoo crap.

3.9 gears ******* suck dick. Enough said.

Get rid of those ******* by any means. ESPECIALLY IF YOU'RE NA. I thought i'd be ok with them tooling around in first and second....which i was but the more i drive, the more i realize i need to get my 4.10/4.30 back in asap. Nobody likes downshifting into 4th on the highway just to maintain speed on slight uphill grades.

Third gear drifting is pretty much useless and downshifting from 2nd into 1st is my personal (dont ******* do ever) type thing. Pisses me the **** off you can buy 5.1 finals for the s2k.

Clutch kicking technically can LOCK the wheels in terms of how they're coupled against one another (see: lsd) but i just use it to break traction and step out. I haz not the luxury of a limited slip anymore.

You can FEEL the weight of the car shifting forwards if you downshift without rev matching/heel-toe. I dont know where someone gathered it transfers the weight to the rear..... Try it. Just driving on a straight and not turning/drifting. You can feel yourself being jerked forwards. That can't be good for your gearbox either. Atleast not a weaksauce n/a box.

 

clutch kicking is a good way to show that you can't commit to a turn. it scrubs off a lot of entry speed. Combine that with the fact its (IMO) the most detrimental initiation technique and you can see why Im def not a fan. Especially, if your trying to hold any type of significant angle.

I know this is going to sound like a noob's statement, but....

Who in D1 shift locks to initiate... no one

 

I said that shift lock moves weight to the back WHEN you floor it after the downshift, which it does. I figured it went without saying that when you clutch in to shift that the weight would go forward and then to the back when you got back on the gas. shift lock isn't very popular when a clutch kick is easier and essentially the same thing.

best way to initiate is feints and power over as it has the least strain on driveline components. e-braking can be ok too but most people don't keep their revs up when they e-brake/clutch in so it essentially ends up being a clutch kick/shift lock when they get back on the gas after as the revs have fallen and need to catch back up. and before anyone says it, you can feint and power over an NA stock. you just gotta feint pretty big before hand and get that weight to the outer side and commit to it. having stiff suspension helps though.

 

Imamura used to shift lock a whole lot back in the Apexi FD3S days. He actually got embarassed when he applied as a driver for Hot Version because he couldn't brake the habit of shift locking and drifting into turns.

That said I do agree that it seems to be an inferior technique

 

na trannies let go if you make more than 250hp or so. na diffs are weak as **** too. i sheared all the teeth of a na trans with my old turbo conversion. put a new trans in, next day i sheered the ring gear teeth off.. **** na garbage

 

Quick question as far as the stress a clutch kick puts on the drivetrain. I'm not sure which components get the most stress put on them and how to fix this problem. Any advice would be helpful.

 

Who ******* cares... go drive and see what works.

 

whichever breaks first was the weakest component..

 

you should be a detective

 

I've looked at all that. But since I'd be keeping the n/a stuff besides the stubs and diff which would be the proper on to get? Shorter or longer?

 

Say the 87-88 Kaaz 2-way. (SBZ1310-WPC-2). Or would swapping in the TII make more sense?