no these



yeah right about. i mean weldeds cool but i dont wanna run an na diff and stubs. were building this thing to last a while without breaking

i like your enthusiasm lol

 

we freed up some time to work on this damn thing lately so we got some stuff done

got the ring gear swapped over onto the tomei. decided to go with new side carrier bearings and a few other little things so its gonna take us a little longer before we can assemble the rear end even tho im getting antsy as hell.



got sick of looking at those stupid speaker shock towers so i got to drillin that garbage. the spot weld bit i got handles biz.



while i was at it i took out some other random brackets and the cheesy jack holder thing in the trunk



heres the finished product. looks 100x better without those dumb things. shoulda come like that from the factory.



we wire wheeled the whole inside of the chassis so that means theres absolutely NO sound deadening or any of that crap left in there. it took a couple days of grinding away and looking like you came out of a coal mine but the cars ready to get caged now



heres an outside pic in case you forgot how ugly it was



a buddy of ours just happened to bring a pressure washer over so we put that **** to good use. engine bay was filthy



theres nothing in this world you cant clean with a gallon of simple green



and guys.....



......



.......



.......


we decided that rotaries are gay and swapped in an LS



lol well have some more stuff happening real soon

 

That motor looks pretty light weight haha

 

Should've just dropped a cardboard JZ

 

One of the most entertaining builds i've read, subbed for more awesome-ness...

 

Drilling out useless crap and saving weight: >9000 respect

 

so does the sound deadening crap actually save that much weight? Ive helped do it a few times but never got the whole car and from what I can tell it might be 3-4lbs of material tops. for all that effort I plan on just leaving mine in there and paint over it. might not be as pretty but it sure saves me a TON of work.

regaurdless looks great man! love the motor setup!

 

Rx7's have a lot If I had to guess out if mine 30lbs plus it's flammable I do believe

 

i think total weight would even be a little more than what slydur said, maybe like 40 lbs. the ***** pretty much everywhere and once you add in the thick fuzzy mat stuff over the wheel wells and the huge padded blanket that goes across the firewall it comes out to a considerable amount. it is not fun to do and would i do it again on another car? probably not but i know if i didnt do it id regret it later. i wasnt really trying to achieve a crazy weight reduction by doing it i just like that the car is more clean looking

 

damn, didnt realize it was that heavy, and I agree it looks much better when its all removed, just trying to decide if its worth the effort or not. oh well I have a few months to decide if I want to do all that or not haha cant wait to see your next update man!

 

Yea there's a lot

 

Removing the sound deadening material will make a big difference in your DD (I don't know if yours is)as far as doing exactly what its intended to do. It's amazing how 25-40lbs. of tarry mat can turn a nice cruiser into an almost unbearable headache with the amount of volume that will get trough with out it. You hear everything going on, amped 20-30dB. Every bang, pop, every stone hitting the wheel well, all of it. Great for a track car where you need 100% situational awareness. Rollin' down the 405: not so much.

 

lol yeah Im well aware, mine is not a DD but it will forever be a street car built for the track. I just cant go through all the effort of building a nice car and only drive it 4-5 times a year. plus driving race cars on the street is the most fun haha

 

all things considered you would get more benefit dropping a moon roof and having the roof skinned and re upholstered versus 'just' carving out sound deadening mats. Hell, pulling the passenger seat will make more difference. But if the chassis is getting seem stitched and a full cage, the stuff pretty much has to come out.

 

not really relevant to our build but i was able to make it out to All Star Bash on Saturday just to spectate. it was cool seeing guys out there still rocking sick style on the track





and they were able to break the world record for most donuts at one time. this video doesnt nearly catch the amount of dicking around that went down.


in other news we tackled the diff installation. neither of us had really done this before so it was all pretty new stuff and kind of an interesting process.

like i said we got new carrier bearings for the LSD cuz i figured why not and i didnt feel like going through the trouble of taking the old ones off



after installing everything we measured backlash (notice the tidy cats boxes>>>>>PERFECT diff stand)



the FSM specs are .0035-.0043 in. we set ours to 4 thousandths exactly



after setting correct backlash, we then preloaded the side bearings. FSM specs were 204.43-204.5mm



once everything was properly set, we checked the contact patch with some marking dye



we didnt really mess with the pinion depth at all but we figured might as well check it to be sure. heres the results. right on the money



and we were able to snag a sort of collab sponsorship kinda thing with fresh on stance so they hooked us up with these wheels spacers which is pretty cool i guess. they will most likely be thrown on chads is300

 

Should of came to party with us. Lets just say the shenanigans and hammeredness was equivalent to doing about 12 kilos of blow per nostril.

Checking backlash with a caliper is over rated. Finger feelz ftw.

 

thats the only way to do all star bash lol. if i knew you were gonna be there i woulda chilled for a bit.

and im curious as to how tight you guys preload the carrier bearings? even tho mine was within spec i feel like it may still not be tight enough but i could just be trippin

 

I died a little. Hahaha.

Awesome work on the FC! I will no longer be happy stepping into my FC, btw. kthnx.

 

after going back and forth on it for a while we sacked up and got new wheel bearings even tho i really wasnt looking forward to putting them in but it would have been better to do it now than find out that the old ones were trashed once the car is put together



took the rear hubs to a buddys shop nearby and used his press. it was definitely a shitty process but now everythings new and good to go. fronts will be getting changed soon



with those few extra things out of the way we will actually be putting the rear end together soon im just trying to find a platform with wheels to put it on so we dont have to scrape the hell out it when we put it back on the car

 

front hubs all cleaned up (kind of) ready to get some new wheel bearings



copped this little piece for next to nothing



and remember those pieces i posted earlier? BAM custom made camber links son

 

Build is looking really good, Iam in the break down process and like what you did with the wheel brush.I gota back pedal through your thread and check out the rest now, nice work !

 

thanks man if you got any questions on anything lemme know

 

Everything else looks great, but you might want to rethink this design. Those custom links might work fine at this length, as it looks like you have juusssst enough thread engagement for it to be reasonably strong.... but if you ever intend to adjust these it looks like you'll need to cut the threaded portions shorter to make the links shorter, or if you unscrew them to make the links longer, you'll be losing what little thread engagement you already have.

 

there definitely would be no reason to make them longer.. and for what they are they should work fine. i would only worry about the quality of the female heim as it looks inferior to the male. also I would try to get a slim lock nut to lock it down.. there won't be much play due to the confinement of the bolts/misalignments/mounts but any slop is bad... just my $.02

 

you guys both bring good points. for shmitty- you are correct since they are cut, theres not a ton of threads left which is why i plan to weld them together to secure the pieces and make them alot stronger once i get the alignment sorted. i didnt plan on adjusting these pieces a ton since pbm claims that when using their tilting subframe bushings the camber is the same side to side when adjusted so no need to dick with one side to get it to match like you usually have to.

for jtp- the heims arent top of the line **** by any means but they have minimal play and will be good enough for my purposes. i run these unwelded on my street car for about a year with no problems so far so im gonna run them. if they break maybe ill have to pick up some of those blingy new pbm ones