CR garage pirate fc build
i am a little worried tho about the lack of clearance the lateral rods/ subframe has. because the pbm bushings are risers they bring everything closer to the frame limiting adjustability and travel. i think im gonna have to remove the toe rods and hammer the floor pan to make room because its pretty much resting on them right now.
has anyone running the pbm bushings had to do that?
has anyone running the pbm bushings had to do that?
I noticed that you guys pressed you diff bushings in so that the meaty collar is on the bottom, putting the diff closer to the floor as well. I could be pissing in the wind here, but based on what I see, those diff mounts might be contributing to this clearance issue too.
I'm all for banging that bitch in with a hammer though. Hell, if it works out for you guys I might do the same.
looks really good overall though. You're pretty brave for painting the wheel wells white, though.
That's my original thought too but I believe they are sold as a subframe "riser" so i think thats the point. To get the subframe closer to the chassis to correct some of the geometry from slamming the car. I suppose if its a problem, he could pop them back out, flip them around, and re-install the stock crown bushings.
looks really good overall though. You're pretty brave for painting the wheel wells white, though.
looks really good overall though. You're pretty brave for painting the wheel wells white, though.
and yeah white is a terrible idea but i cant help it i like how it looks too much
yeah that could possibly help out. the adjustability of fc suspension in general just blows. have to get the right bushing setup for adjustment and even then the ways you move camber/toe are just retarded compared to double wishbone. im hoping we wont have to drop the subframe again to deal with the clearance issues id be pisseddd
For the time being, you guys could use a modified stock toe-arm for a little more room:
https://www.rx7club.com/drifting-226...fc-rx7-938877/
im curious and may send Dan another email, But I thought when using PBM entire rear end solution nothing had to be banged out. Actually, ask JTP, he has the whole setup from them on the rear, and driven on it.
I was planning on picking up the "entire rear solution" once tax return rolls in, so I would love to figure this out before hand.
Also, you car is coming along nicely.
Edit: I remember you made your own links now.
I was planning on picking up the "entire rear solution" once tax return rolls in, so I would love to figure this out before hand.
Also, you car is coming along nicely.
Edit: I remember you made your own links now.
This is the most motivational build thread for my S5 build which is also low budget, no shops, just me and a few friends out of my garage. Lots of great ideas and advice.
Thanks and keep up the good work!
Thanks and keep up the good work!
aight back to the other car again
did work today. assembled subframe. color scheme looks clean all together. im pleased. also put our middle school skateboards to good use



after a lot of hammering and re positioning we finally got everything in the car and torqued down. the pbm bushings made it really hard to put in because they have no give

put the rear coils in too just to add to the blingin


i am a little worried tho about the lack of clearance the lateral rods/ subframe has. because the pbm bushings are risers they bring everything closer to the frame limiting adjustability and travel. i think im gonna have to remove the toe rods and hammer the floor pan to make room because its pretty much resting on them right now.
has anyone running the pbm bushings had to do that?
did work today. assembled subframe. color scheme looks clean all together. im pleased. also put our middle school skateboards to good use



after a lot of hammering and re positioning we finally got everything in the car and torqued down. the pbm bushings made it really hard to put in because they have no give

put the rear coils in too just to add to the blingin


i am a little worried tho about the lack of clearance the lateral rods/ subframe has. because the pbm bushings are risers they bring everything closer to the frame limiting adjustability and travel. i think im gonna have to remove the toe rods and hammer the floor pan to make room because its pretty much resting on them right now.
has anyone running the pbm bushings had to do that?
Hammering for clearance is really all you can do. I don't have any pics but the curved part that the bins/back seats sit in took a few good whacks with a 5lb sledge and there's no clearance issues anymore.
the slammed ride height has a lot to do with it too but i specifically chose to use beefier heims with a higher misalignment because i noticed on my other car at the height im at my links are close to binding.
i almost wish we used rubber bushings instead just to have more adjustability but im sure the pbm will feel much better
when in doubt cut **** out
i almost wish we used rubber bushings instead just to have more adjustability but im sure the pbm will feel much better
when in doubt cut **** out
Noticed your located in moorpark. Nice to know there are other FC's in the area. I live in camarillo. I am finally working on my vert again. Getting ready to do the vmount. Heres my build
https://www.rx7club.com/drifting-226/my-first-drift-car-build-990646/
https://www.rx7club.com/drifting-226/my-first-drift-car-build-990646/
Noticed your located in moorpark. Nice to know there are other FC's in the area. I live in camarillo. I am finally working on my vert again. Getting ready to do the vmount. Heres my build
My first drift car build - RX7Club.com
My first drift car build - RX7Club.com
Nice. I ran into that problem with mine too, I ended up taking both of the small collars off and dropping the spring perch all the way down to the lower mount which got me about another 3/4" lower, but I had to raise it up when I got BN. Just sold the BN though so it'll be going back down haha







