brapdashdbrap

iTrader: (1)

Well making this thread so hopefully keep myself on track on getting this rx7 back on the road.

Here's when I got it. https://www.rx7club.com/introduce-yo...w-guy-1015376/

Removing the engine was surprisingly too easy. Removing driveshaft bolts were a pain.

Here is the burnt motor. This car has t2 drivetrain so should be fun stuff!




Plan is now to get engine bay cleaned up. Anyone have any experience taking off the burntness? I'm thinking some strong paint stripper, maybe some paint thinner, or wire wheel/metal brush?

Basically want to get it to bare metal and then repaint!!!

Broke_A_Baller

iTrader: (26)

Sandblast it...or wire brush it...either way going take time and be messy ahha

clokker

iTrader: (2)

I don't think it will be all that bad.
I'd get a stiff wire brush and a bucket of soapy water and go to town...then see what's left.

brapdashdbrap

iTrader: (1)

Got some stripper and laid some out on it. Didn't really did what I wanted to so went to Harbor Freight for some wire wheels and electric drill.

Did 5 mins of wire wheeling and loved the result.








Will spend this week wire wheeling every needed spot till I'm ready to prep it.

brapdashdbrap

iTrader: (1)

Going to paint the engine bay next weekend. Interior has been stripped. Will also install new harness after done with engine bay.






So I've made a list of what I'll need in the bay. Hopefully you guys can help me out with some stuff

Heater Hoses
Clutch Master
New Fuel Lines
Clutch line
Brake lines?
Complete wiper assembly
Hood
OMP lines?
steering rack bushings and tie rods
Brake Booster
Windshield Reservoir tube piece
Battery Tray
Charcoal Canister
Speed Sensor
Throttle Cable

brapdashdbrap

iTrader: (1)

Did not realize I made a build thread...this car ended up getting scrapped unfortunately.

Picking up a TurboII this weekend.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

..hmmm.
I think the front end would have now been stronger since it was tempered steel...lol!

(Bob..this car won't crush..wtf?...hahhaa!)

brapdashdbrap

iTrader: (1)

If only, then I would feel comfortable driving alongside these AZ drivers!!

Any other stuff I should look for before beginning to drive this TurboII back on the road.

I will be doing oil flush, tranny flush, coolant, spark plugs, air filter, oil filter, plug wires, and compression check.

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

I would do everything you just said in reverse order. Compression check, Cooling system pressure test also comes to mind. Vacuum leak test of some form or nature, adjust TPS and clean your grounds all come to mind as well.

The items mentioned and corresponding info comes up every 20 minutes in the new members section. Grounding procedure found on Aaron cakes website.

Foxed.ca is the best place on the planet for service manuals for these cars.

Good luck, after a nice buff n shine that pain looks like it will polish back up still.

brapdashdbrap

iTrader: (1)

Picked it up this weekend. Could not get it started before I towed it this weekend. I figured it would be flooded.

Got it off the trailer and pulled EGI fuse, still not starting. Deflooded with spark plugs out, no fuel came out so ended up being fuel pump. Got a new fuel pump and hardwired it for now, and it started again. So need to read the diagrams and figure out if I should get new harness or not. Also how the cluster is wired up since they are a no go currently.

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

check the transmission cable at the back of the cluster, they pop out FAR too easy. Might be much simpler then you think

brapdashdbrap

iTrader: (1)

Will do tonight if I have time after I do an oil change on it. Not sure if the transmission cable would affect the rest of the gauges..we are talking about the speedometer cable correct?

brapdashdbrap

iTrader: (1)

Looks like the oil pan is leaking as well as the tranny somewhere

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

Sorry, did not realize the whole cluster was dead. Yeah, the speedo wire (had a brain fart) will at least fix the mechanical portion, as for everything else... Not sure lol.

brapdashdbrap

iTrader: (1)

Well actually the oil pressure gauge works. I just have to read the cluster diagram good and trace each gauge. Looks like water got in the car as some metal parts have surface rust.

lduley

iTrader: (1)

The metal support bar for the dash having rust on it is fairly common

mukurosfc3s

iTrader: (10)

rewire the fuel pump with a Bosch relay
there's a few right ups also not that hard to figure out with a volt meter and wire diagram..

I would replace the pulsation dampener on the fuel rail... those things cause fires on NA's so imagine what can happen to a T2..

Great find!! if only I was this lucky to find a unmolested T2!!

brapdashdbrap

iTrader: (1)

I havent taken out the dash yet but small metal components like the mini cpus under the dashboard have surface rust and whatnot.

Yep I was going to do a relay but ran out of time this weekend. Also not sure if I should bypass the stock fuel pump circuitry altogether or not. When i take out the dash I will decide if I need a better harness or not.

Did the banjo bolt on my first rx7, what a fun time that was.

I'm excited I found it, I almost didn't buy it but after taking a look at another "Turbo II" I knew this one just needed minor stuff(hopefully compression will turn out good). It just needs all interior replaced really.


Also was finishing the oil change tonight as I finally removed the oil filter but before I started filling it up I need to clean the oil filler.

Azevedo

Me and two other fc owners all bought our rx7s with dead fuel pumps i luled when you said yours was dead. Anyone else have this issue?

brapdashdbrap

iTrader: (1)

Few updates to where I am...

I ended up pulling the old dash. This had to be done in multiple pieces




Fuel pump harness needed to be fixed so heres my first attempt on soldering wires together. Soldered, heatshrink, then put inside loom.




Black carpet arrived and put that in.


Decided to try out Evaporust, some pretty good results on bunch of rusty bolts




I had trouble and a headache receiving a dashboard from greyhound. They ended up losing it so I ended up buying one locally. Should have probably taken a better look but its broken in alot of important places, will replace eventually again.

brapdashdbrap

iTrader: (1)

Since alot of my interior panels were in good condition I decided to try and paint them and if it didnt turn out too good I would just buy black ones instead.




New hose and water temp adapter




Carpet was also in good condition, decided to try and make it black as well.



First attempt at bleeding the coolant. Nasty brown coolant was burping up and my heater hose was leaking. Decided I would get a new radiator, thermostat neck, and a few more bits.



Picked up a few parts locally for a good deal...wheels, momo wheel and hub, and some interior plastics I was missing.




Rear view mirror bolt got stripped and broke a bolt extractor in the process. Ended up drilling it out.



Sunroof wasnt working correctly so decided to pull it apart. Drivers side cable was snapped. Just put it back together and decided I will remove the sunroof mechanism and make some sort of detachable hardware in the future.




I was having trouble with the car alarm going off everytime I hooked up the battery or turned on the headlights. Searched around the forum for every keyword I could, and some random post mentioned he had a connector hooked up wrong. I had connected the logicon harness to the warning lights and I was hooking up the warning light harness to the security alarm harness lol

brapdashdbrap

iTrader: (1)

Some parts came in and I went to the junkyard for an MPV switch. Wired it up and plugged it in and for the longest time I couldnt figure out why it wasnt working...turned out I was plugging the motor harness to the door light!! I need to depin it though as the driver switch buttons are working oppositely.






Amemiya radiator and filler caps. These cost same as oem. Also soldered up the warning lights.




Since I got the windows working on the passenger side I put new fasteners on door panel and installed it. Also used fluidyne rad came in.




Grabbed a Prosport digital water temp gauge. This heater hardline has been a pain. I finally pulled it off to weld a hole it had. Turns out its rotten. I ended up making my own heater line out of the old 90 deg hoses and a foot of new heater hose.





Decided to put the distributor blocks for the gauge and future gauges/stereo on the back of the passenger speaker panel. Installed it with double sided tape.

brapdashdbrap

iTrader: (1)

2nd attempt at bleeding the coolant. At this point I had replaced the thermostat housing, upper and lower hose, caps, and radiator. While I was replacing the t-stat housing I flushed it with the garden hose.




So I was missing and adapter for the spill free funnel and just decided to bleed it with filler cap off. I started the car and immediately it shut off. Looked underneath and there was a pool of fluid next to the tranny. Thought something went wrong with the tranny since it made a gearish noise when it shut off but it was spilled fuel.

I had installed a new fuel filter with new fuel lines but I had a feeling I didnt install them right. I used worm clamps and the fuel line slipped in too easy, bad mistake.

For the short time it turned on, it was able to leak coolant through the heater hose I made myself.

Would it be ok to use braided hoses and clamps for a heater hose? I saw the vert from Banzai using something like this..

Anyways, waiting for a few more parts, interior is almost complete, and need to get some tires. In the meantime I'll be claybaring the car!!