first time rx7 build, always looking for advice!
#1
first time rx7 build, always looking for advice!
so as the title states im working on my first rx7, its a 87 base fc, 6port 13b stock.
Now the goods, as per seeing aaron cakes awesome play by play with how to turbocharge this beast, i have started to accumulate the correct parts to do so aswell!
as it stands i have for my build right now.
s4 turboII LIM,UIM,TB
S4 turboII front cover
Apexi SafcII
4 turboII 550cc injectors as well as the fuel rails,
Stock s4 Turbo and manifold
Greddy Wideband
still need to pick up
Downpipe
Gaskets for Oilpan,LIM,Turbo Manifold,and Downpipe.
im not sure if i am missing anything major or just small things,
im going bit by bit, but its coming up quick, im hopping to have this all together in the next 2-3 months!
Let me know what i can change, not looking for a huge increase in WHP, just a little more then what this old girl has!.
please no flaming about 6port turbo or how low end this is for a tune/spec, it is my first car im not going crazy yet.!
Thanks all!
Now the goods, as per seeing aaron cakes awesome play by play with how to turbocharge this beast, i have started to accumulate the correct parts to do so aswell!
as it stands i have for my build right now.
s4 turboII LIM,UIM,TB
S4 turboII front cover
Apexi SafcII
4 turboII 550cc injectors as well as the fuel rails,
Stock s4 Turbo and manifold
Greddy Wideband
still need to pick up
Downpipe
Gaskets for Oilpan,LIM,Turbo Manifold,and Downpipe.
im not sure if i am missing anything major or just small things,
im going bit by bit, but its coming up quick, im hopping to have this all together in the next 2-3 months!
Let me know what i can change, not looking for a huge increase in WHP, just a little more then what this old girl has!.
please no flaming about 6port turbo or how low end this is for a tune/spec, it is my first car im not going crazy yet.!
Thanks all!
#2
★*NGTDRV★*
iTrader: (16)
Congrats on your first build!
I would suggest you plan your timeline very loosely, as I have made many timelines for my builds and usually don't even get close because of the occasional hiccups that are bound to happen.
If you are looking for a downpipe I have one for sale. I just sold a Racing Beat 3in, but I have another one I have not listed yet that is 2.5in or 2.75in can't remember right now.
Good luck with your build!
I would suggest you plan your timeline very loosely, as I have made many timelines for my builds and usually don't even get close because of the occasional hiccups that are bound to happen.
If you are looking for a downpipe I have one for sale. I just sold a Racing Beat 3in, but I have another one I have not listed yet that is 2.5in or 2.75in can't remember right now.
Good luck with your build!
#4
Hey...Cut it out!
iTrader: (4)
I doubt anyone would give you any flak for for going with a TIINA Build as you are, we all have mad respect for Aaron Cake as he thinks outside the box quite a bit. This creativity has led to some very clever solutions.
If my recollection is correct, you can skip the oil pan gasket and just use RTV such as Permatex's "The Right Stuff" or "Ultra Black RTV". When you have a chance, search in the 3rd Gen Section for how to seal the oil pan. It comes up reasonably often as the FD has a propensity for leaks at the pan flange. While the FC doesn't suffer from the same ailment due to the deeper pan, doing the job to the standards that the FD (and 13B-RE & 20B, I might add) requires is always a good move. Here is one such thread: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...zation-981185/
Where are you getting oil from to feed the turbo? NA front irons don't have the M14x1.5 threaded port like the turbo ones do, but there are a few options. IIRC, Aaron Cake fed Project TIINA from the oil cooler. You can also use an oil filter pedestal too, preferably facing inward to keep the lines nice and tidy. Might want to ask Aaron Cake as he still has to implement the oil feed for his 1976 Cosmo's turbo.
The Coolant Feed comes from the Rear Iron. Aaron Cake shows how to drill & tap a GSL-SE iron for a coolant feed in the Cosmo videos. As for the Coolant Return, the TII, FD & 13B/20B Cosmo engines have a barb on the return side of the water pump housing. I always thought this was kind of a bonehead move on Mazda's part as it creates superheated coolant (gone through shortblock, then the turbo) that bypasses the radiator entirely. Both Aaron Cake and I used a S4NA water pump housing on our builds (76 Cosmo gone 13B Turbo and S4 gone 20B-REW respectively) and routed the turbo coolant return to the 3/8" barb fitting near the thermostat. This forces all of your coolant to go through the radiator no matter what.
While speaking of cooling, what are your plans for a radiator? While a stock radiator would work, its plastic endtanks would be its undoing. On my Project OldTree, I found crumbled endtank plastic in the coolant at the beginning of the project. An all-aluminum radiator such as the Koyo N-flo should be on your shopping list. Just attach your S4 brackets and it's nearly a bolt-on upgrade.
Last, chances are your stock S4 alternator is dying, about to die or will die shortly after your turbo conversion. With the proper pulley from Mazdatrix, a 100 Amp FD alternator is a good move, but there are better options out there such as the 130 Amp 92-95 Taurus Alternator (which uses the same pulley). It's bigger than stock and requires some simple flat adapter brackets made, but when it comes to a stock part you can get at any junkyard for $20, it's pretty much the last word in charging. I've seen it shoehorned under a stock intercooler, but the intercooler needs a little 'massaging' with a hammer & dremel on the sheetmetal. And should you ever need more power, Motor City Reman offers versions that put out an ungodly 200 Amps or more...
If my recollection is correct, you can skip the oil pan gasket and just use RTV such as Permatex's "The Right Stuff" or "Ultra Black RTV". When you have a chance, search in the 3rd Gen Section for how to seal the oil pan. It comes up reasonably often as the FD has a propensity for leaks at the pan flange. While the FC doesn't suffer from the same ailment due to the deeper pan, doing the job to the standards that the FD (and 13B-RE & 20B, I might add) requires is always a good move. Here is one such thread: https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...zation-981185/
Where are you getting oil from to feed the turbo? NA front irons don't have the M14x1.5 threaded port like the turbo ones do, but there are a few options. IIRC, Aaron Cake fed Project TIINA from the oil cooler. You can also use an oil filter pedestal too, preferably facing inward to keep the lines nice and tidy. Might want to ask Aaron Cake as he still has to implement the oil feed for his 1976 Cosmo's turbo.
The Coolant Feed comes from the Rear Iron. Aaron Cake shows how to drill & tap a GSL-SE iron for a coolant feed in the Cosmo videos. As for the Coolant Return, the TII, FD & 13B/20B Cosmo engines have a barb on the return side of the water pump housing. I always thought this was kind of a bonehead move on Mazda's part as it creates superheated coolant (gone through shortblock, then the turbo) that bypasses the radiator entirely. Both Aaron Cake and I used a S4NA water pump housing on our builds (76 Cosmo gone 13B Turbo and S4 gone 20B-REW respectively) and routed the turbo coolant return to the 3/8" barb fitting near the thermostat. This forces all of your coolant to go through the radiator no matter what.
While speaking of cooling, what are your plans for a radiator? While a stock radiator would work, its plastic endtanks would be its undoing. On my Project OldTree, I found crumbled endtank plastic in the coolant at the beginning of the project. An all-aluminum radiator such as the Koyo N-flo should be on your shopping list. Just attach your S4 brackets and it's nearly a bolt-on upgrade.
Last, chances are your stock S4 alternator is dying, about to die or will die shortly after your turbo conversion. With the proper pulley from Mazdatrix, a 100 Amp FD alternator is a good move, but there are better options out there such as the 130 Amp 92-95 Taurus Alternator (which uses the same pulley). It's bigger than stock and requires some simple flat adapter brackets made, but when it comes to a stock part you can get at any junkyard for $20, it's pretty much the last word in charging. I've seen it shoehorned under a stock intercooler, but the intercooler needs a little 'massaging' with a hammer & dremel on the sheetmetal. And should you ever need more power, Motor City Reman offers versions that put out an ungodly 200 Amps or more...
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#8
So!, the project has switched sides, i have found a beatiful gxl that has been transformed into a T2/s5 with out motor or tranny, picked it up for a wonder full next to nothing!
so we have been ripping it apart to start the wiring job from start to finish
ill give you guys some pictures!
on a second note, i am getting rid of the SAFC2, im looking at a AEM FIC since it can control timing as well. so i will have some more tuning ability for my car!
so we have been ripping it apart to start the wiring job from start to finish
ill give you guys some pictures!
on a second note, i am getting rid of the SAFC2, im looking at a AEM FIC since it can control timing as well. so i will have some more tuning ability for my car!
#9
So! Update, have full dismantled the inside of the car everything is out! Cleaning up the small rust. Also just got my innovate digital wideband gunna look sick! And for fuel and ignition I'm going to be running the AEM Fic6 now, over the apexi which wouldn't let me control any timing so should have a better chance at a more consistent tune!
Now just getting my t2 tranny and drive tran to match up to the drive shaft and t2 diff in the car then will be pulling the motor and slapping it in!, will leave it as n/a for a little bit to beable to move the car... We have a long drive way and to many cars.. So yea! Up next is some gaskets lim porting turbo rebuild purchase oil pedestal and fab that in for some awesome cooling action for the turbo! Then figure out what bov I'll get aswell as a fmic or use stock tmic!
Now just getting my t2 tranny and drive tran to match up to the drive shaft and t2 diff in the car then will be pulling the motor and slapping it in!, will leave it as n/a for a little bit to beable to move the car... We have a long drive way and to many cars.. So yea! Up next is some gaskets lim porting turbo rebuild purchase oil pedestal and fab that in for some awesome cooling action for the turbo! Then figure out what bov I'll get aswell as a fmic or use stock tmic!