Man VS OIL PAN! - Dramatization
12-22-11, 09:08 PM
#1
Man VS OIL PAN! - Dramatization
Word had got out, I said it, I had cursed the oil pan, and the pan knew it. Twice it had leaked oil all over the floor in retaliation, even after careful assembly. But this time was going to be different, some how, some way, I was going to get my freshly rebuilt engine to not drip a drop. Mazda had done it, without so much as some grey rtv sealant, and as god is my witness I was going to do the same. The new oil pan was rejection the engine like a bad organ transplant, and my time, and patience was running thin.
It was a warm day in December, the sun was out and the wind was tame. I decided to spend the day with my other woman. The fun started by removing the two engine mount bolts, raising the engine, and lowering the front subframe. Three bolts on this side, three on that, and four on the steering rack, and the subframe can be pulled down. The oil pan can clear the oil pump pick-up line and be slid back just from lowering this cross member. Next, I scraped both pan and engine with a razor to remove all the old sealant. Then, I sanded both surfaces until clean (I removed most paint from pan mounting surface). Keep in mind that sand paper could break down and fall into the pan. I checked that the pan was straight with a straight edge. After that, I cleaned both surfaced with carb cleaner, and applied a bead of ultra grey rtv sealant. When you remounted the pan, allow the sealant to cure. The rtv requires 1 hour to set and 24 to fully cure. It uses the moisture in the air to cure, so don't add oil too soon, and keeping the drain plug out might help the process.
Engine mounts and successful oil pan sealing: The left engine mount on the 93 models was originally aluminum, and had a raised spot to help support the oil pan. The new steel mount does not have the support. I found some aluminum stock in my box of goodies that would create a flush support. I JB welded the spacer to the pan. The pan had been leaking from this location previously! Currently the pan is curing so I will update you guys on the progress. I will wait 24 hours before I add oil, and currently the drain plug is out.
TO BE CONTINUED...
It was a warm day in December, the sun was out and the wind was tame. I decided to spend the day with my other woman. The fun started by removing the two engine mount bolts, raising the engine, and lowering the front subframe. Three bolts on this side, three on that, and four on the steering rack, and the subframe can be pulled down. The oil pan can clear the oil pump pick-up line and be slid back just from lowering this cross member. Next, I scraped both pan and engine with a razor to remove all the old sealant. Then, I sanded both surfaces until clean (I removed most paint from pan mounting surface). Keep in mind that sand paper could break down and fall into the pan. I checked that the pan was straight with a straight edge. After that, I cleaned both surfaced with carb cleaner, and applied a bead of ultra grey rtv sealant. When you remounted the pan, allow the sealant to cure. The rtv requires 1 hour to set and 24 to fully cure. It uses the moisture in the air to cure, so don't add oil too soon, and keeping the drain plug out might help the process.
Engine mounts and successful oil pan sealing: The left engine mount on the 93 models was originally aluminum, and had a raised spot to help support the oil pan. The new steel mount does not have the support. I found some aluminum stock in my box of goodies that would create a flush support. I JB welded the spacer to the pan. The pan had been leaking from this location previously! Currently the pan is curing so I will update you guys on the progress. I will wait 24 hours before I add oil, and currently the drain plug is out.
TO BE CONTINUED...
12-24-11, 12:59 PM
#6
(awaits anxiously for the other women to realize you used cubiczicosilverrtv gasket instead of OEM ring on her pan .. * bites finger nails * will she notice ? will she throw it in your face and with it make a big mess if your garage , throwing a fit of black tears .. or will she spend the rest of her days oblivious to the cheap fix ? )
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12-25-11, 09:07 PM
#9
Original Gangster/Rotary!
iTrader: (213)
Here's the only method that we've found that gives you a fighting chance:
(1) New oil pan<-----this one is important
(2) Oil pan brace
(3) Stud kit with lock washers under all hardware (including motor mount bolts)
(4) Right Stuff Silicone (no OEM gasket)
All four of the above are completely necessary, unless the existing oil pan is mint (which is extremely unlikely).
Ray Crowe told me some time ago that most shops he dealt with ordered new oil pans on a regular basis.
(1) New oil pan<-----this one is important
(2) Oil pan brace
(3) Stud kit with lock washers under all hardware (including motor mount bolts)
(4) Right Stuff Silicone (no OEM gasket)
All four of the above are completely necessary, unless the existing oil pan is mint (which is extremely unlikely).
Ray Crowe told me some time ago that most shops he dealt with ordered new oil pans on a regular basis.
12-25-11, 09:12 PM
#10
Here's the only method that we've found that gives you a fighting chance:
(1) New oil pan<-----this one is important
(2) Oil pan brace
(3) Stud kit with lock washers under all hardware (including motor mount bolts)
(4) Right Stuff Silicone (no OEM gasket)
All four of the above are completely necessary, unless the existing oil pan is mint (which is extremely unlikely).
Ray Crowe told me some time ago that most shops he dealt with ordered new oil pans on a regular basis.
(1) New oil pan<-----this one is important
(2) Oil pan brace
(3) Stud kit with lock washers under all hardware (including motor mount bolts)
(4) Right Stuff Silicone (no OEM gasket)
All four of the above are completely necessary, unless the existing oil pan is mint (which is extremely unlikely).
Ray Crowe told me some time ago that most shops he dealt with ordered new oil pans on a regular basis.
12-26-11, 04:12 PM
#13
I have no oil pan brace- I do run -10an lines and a big oil catch can with a large breather/filter for oil pan vent. I have one line on the rear iron oil drain and the second line on the RE filler neck- 400HP 15psi not one drop of oil as of yet. So I would say increase your ventilation and see what happens..
12-26-11, 04:27 PM
#14
Wastegate John
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I re sealed my oil pan exactly like Goodfella said and mine leaks
. I cleaned both surfaces, made sure they were dry and free of oil, and torqued everything properly, waited more than a week to add oil to the engine to make sure it is dry.
Dont know where I went wrong as followed the steps exactly a described.
I will be resealing my pan with the factory gasket and some permatex form a gasket. I will see how that goes. It can not leak much more than it already does
.
John
. I cleaned both surfaces, made sure they were dry and free of oil, and torqued everything properly, waited more than a week to add oil to the engine to make sure it is dry.Dont know where I went wrong as followed the steps exactly a described
.I will be resealing my pan with the factory gasket and some permatex form a gasket. I will see how that goes. It can not leak much more than it already does
.John
12-26-11, 04:42 PM
#16
Wastegate John
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I had my engine out and on a stand. I too sanded it. That is what is really frustrating me. I feel like I did something wrong but do not know what. I even used a BRAND NEW bottle of the right stuff rather than using one that I had open on the shelf.
I have rebuilt many engines and transmissions for heavy equipment and I do not have leaks. So that is why I will be using the gasket and permatex. That is what I have been using for years with out problems in other stuff so I will see how it goes for this application.
John
.I have rebuilt many engines and transmissions for heavy equipment and I do not have leaks. So that is why I will be using the gasket and permatex. That is what I have been using for years with out problems in other stuff so I will see how it goes for this application.
John
01-11-12, 11:21 PM
#23
My pan has not leaked in 18 years. But now that I am pulling a purectly good engine to tamper with, I am scared that by pulling of teh mounts I will have started a cascade So, I have ordered a new Series 8 pan (N3G1-10-400) from Mazdaspeed (I forget what they changed, I think I read something positive years ago), will use Moroso stud kit and hopefully find success.
01-15-12, 08:50 AM
#25
Rotary Enthusiast
The brace distributes clamping force around the entire pan instead of just at bolts. My accord has one built into the pan.
I sealed my pan with the right stuff and a brace about a year ago. Guess we will see if its sealed when wire tuck is done
I sealed my pan with the right stuff and a brace about a year ago. Guess we will see if its sealed when wire tuck is done