first time rx7 build, always looking for advice!
04-25-14, 07:28 PM
#34
NA-BOOSTIN
I notice that you didn't get a t2 pressure sensor in your list . I'm finishing up my second build right now with a 6 port and holset hx-52 turbo . My 1st was pretty much what you got for mods but running a rtek 1.8 with 800cc injectors . Now I sold the rtek and went with a haltech e6k and 1600cc for sec.'s . You can find a good used standalone for cheap ( I paid 450 with clean harness and some sensors ) . Nice build so far and looking forward to you finishing it
04-25-14, 09:08 PM
#35
I notice that you didn't get a t2 pressure sensor in your list . I'm finishing up my second build right now with a 6 port and holset hx-52 turbo . My 1st was pretty much what you got for mods but running a rtek 1.8 with 800cc injectors . Now I sold the rtek and went with a haltech e6k and 1600cc for sec.'s . You can find a good used standalone for cheap ( I paid 450 with clean harness and some sensors ) . Nice build so far and looking forward to you finishing it
05-11-14, 08:43 PM
#37
Got the motor out started tearing it down for cleaning/ paint , oil pan is super clean, think this is the original motor from 87! All seals are looking good, just need to get the eccentric bolt off so I can swap front covers and put my flywheel on , hoping the motor will be in the car with in 2 weeks!
05-12-14, 08:56 PM
#41
[QUOTE="ibeljin;11735567"]one person with an impact gun on one side with the other sitting on a steel bar holding the flywheel in place. My flywheel nut was very stubborn as well.[/QUOTE do you have said impact? Maybe come by for a day and help me out?
05-12-14, 09:22 PM
#44
Okay guys. This method is absolutely foolproof.
Buy the flywheel stopper. Much safer than using a stopper bar. Put that bitch on before you loosen flywheel nut. Last thing anybody needs is a steel bar flying across the garage.
After it's on, you need to take a propane torch to the bolt for a few minutes to melt the loctite. Now, with a THREE QUARTER INCH DRIVE BAR AND 19MM SOCKET, set it on there. Jave a heavy friend sit on your engine if you haven't a stand and slide an engine hoist leg over the bar. Use that 6ft of leverage to your advantage.
Repeat for flywheel nut except propane. It works every time. Didn't even break a sweat, worked the first time.
The trick is to bounce thr hoist leg on the bar until you hear the bolt creak and then heave it.
Buy the flywheel stopper. Much safer than using a stopper bar. Put that bitch on before you loosen flywheel nut. Last thing anybody needs is a steel bar flying across the garage.
After it's on, you need to take a propane torch to the bolt for a few minutes to melt the loctite. Now, with a THREE QUARTER INCH DRIVE BAR AND 19MM SOCKET, set it on there. Jave a heavy friend sit on your engine if you haven't a stand and slide an engine hoist leg over the bar. Use that 6ft of leverage to your advantage.
Repeat for flywheel nut except propane. It works every time. Didn't even break a sweat, worked the first time.
The trick is to bounce thr hoist leg on the bar until you hear the bolt creak and then heave it.
05-12-14, 09:31 PM
#46
Rotary Enthusiast
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the $20 or so odd dollars spent to do this right is worth it. Get the stopper for your flywheel. I have personally watched a flywheel shoot across a corn field .
05-19-14, 07:30 PM
#49
Heres some pictures for a update!, Thanks Styx for coming down and helping change/remove/install new front cover and lightened flywheel! and thanks for the big rad upgrade for my cooling needs 
, now im waiting on my gaskets to show up so i can plop the motor in the car!
, now im waiting on my gaskets to show up so i can plop the motor in the car!