eage8

iTrader: (9)

from what I can tell most bushings are probably going to be fine if you cut the barbs off the control arm, I think they are what cause most of the binding issues.

I ended up using the mazdaspeed front delrin bushings (they were fine, and the MMR ones were way tighter and I didn't want to have to clearance them). I used the MMR UHMW/delrin? rear ones just because taking the mazdaspeed ones off the barbs took too much material off and they were loose when I cut the barbs off.

GrossPolluter

iTrader: (1)

Awesome, thanks! Just in time. My car will be going to the shop soon to get an alignment

eage8

iTrader: (9)

got the new rear springs installed with the new top hats. The rear springs are now mounted independent of the actual rear strut mount so the top mount moves with the damper instead of staying static and side loading the spring. (which I think is important, but suspension companies don't seem to care)

new rear springs are 450 lbs/in

6" springs are lighter than 10" springs:




-4 lbs

Saturday morning I autocrossed, didn't drive particularly well, but there wasn't anyone fast in my class so I won anyway *shrug*



I fixed the clunking in the video just for driftxsequence it was either my fire extinguisher (mounted to my roll bar) or my camera having a loose center rotational position, I'm not sure which....


then got home and decided it was a good time to swap the impreza's engine (it wasn't)

impreza at 9pm:


Impreza the next morning an hour and a half away at a rallycross:

TonyD89

iTrader: (10)

Love the trailer hitch in the side shot!

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

:

archaphil

iTrader: (1)

you are having too much dang fun !

GrossPolluter

iTrader: (1)

I remembered your older numbers from one of the firsts posts having less toe change.

So I measured the stock tie rod end on the car, and factory the middle of the ball joint to the flat on the steering knuckle is a little under 1", but over .75". I know that is a very rough measurement, but it has the rubber boot over it.
So going from stock spacing .75"-1.0" to 1.15" made that big fo a diference? I really do need a bump steer gauge!

GrossPolluter

iTrader: (1)

Also I noticed on your lower roll center adjuster body, there was a slight bend on it, like factory. I just cut out the body of mine yesterday, it took me hours by hand. Do you think my spherical bearing will bind without that bend? I'm hoping to not have to bend it, and the angle of the bearing can handle it.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

First measure (flipped so they line up):
Recent:

- the first measure I had a lot of toe out because I didn't align it after taking a lot of spacing which would of affected it
- I changed my struts and top mounts, so the arc is going to be slightly different.
- the new ball joints are going to be slightly different spacing than my old ones since they're tightened down.

remember these are hundredths/thousandths of inches, minor things can affect it a decent amount.

and yes, 1/4" of spacing makes a big difference. the spacer I took out in the first post was about 3/8", maybe 5/16" and it changed the bump steer from being terrible to pretty good.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

You need the bend. Mine barely doesn't bind with the bend under full droop.

Here is a decent picture from a while ago:


disregard the extra spacer on the tie rod.

Mounting the ball joint on the bottom of the control arm helps with bearing travel too slightly... (that's where I have mine mounted now)

eage8

iTrader: (9)

I've had a lot of issues with my VR sensors in the past... I'm on my 3rd CAS and I've always had noise... so I finally broke down an ordered a FFE trigger wheel with a hall sensor. I'm pretty excited about it.

13B FC/RE Trigger Hall | Full Function Engineering

tonight I modified my power steering pulley so I can use it with the kit. I made a thread about it:
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...ering-1065024/

Here's some pictures:




not quite done yet. Still need to mount the sensor which uses the same mouting points as my relocated power steering bracket... but it doesn't look like it'll be very hard at all. It should just replace some of the washers I have spacing the bracket out.

lots more stuff coming...

eage8

iTrader: (9)

made idler pulley washer much larger:


added the bracket between thje front cover and my relocated power steering bracket:

eage8

iTrader: (9)

stock oil cooler is out:


new oil cooler that's going in. A 34 row setrab:

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

What kind of disconnects are those on the lines? they dont look like standard AN fittings exactly??

eage8

iTrader: (9)

They're just caps so the oil cooler and lines don't leak everywhere:

re-rx7

iTrader: (3)

The factory oil cooler is a damn gd piece. Are you confident the seatrab is better?

eage8

iTrader: (9)

The stock oil cooler is a 7 row cooler... the setrab is a 34 row. it should be more efficient, but the main reason I got it is this:



oil cooler fan This way when I'm sitting still in grid my oil temps won't go through the roof.

the fan will be triggered by an inline thermo-switch:



I started plumbing stuff tonight.

I relocated the power steering cooler line to make some more room for the cooler+fan. Hopefully that kink on the left doesn't leak...



installed an improved racing 185* thermostat:




it's impressively small and fits great in the only spot that's really convenient.

I made some new AN lines and plumbed that into the engine. now all that's left is to mount and plumb the oil cooler, and wire the fan up.

cone_crushr

iTrader: (18)

That PS loop-line kink is a problem. You need all the flow your pump will put out with those fat front tires and that kink is a serious restriction. Time to raid the junkyard, since fabbing new lines is a pain with the metric lines/connectors.

Most serious track junkies go with dual oil coolers, but end up with two+ quarts filling all the braided lines. Single cooler might work fine for auto-X especially with that sweet fan setup. -08 AN lines?

eage8

iTrader: (9)

the kink isn't as bad as it looks... but yeah, I know. if it's an issue I'll replumb the whole system and add a real power steering cooler. the lines are all -10AN

this week has been way busier than I expected it to be... worked on the car most of the day and got the cooler mounted, plumbed, and the fan wired up.



also mounted some new/used tires on the back, hopefully that fixes my crazy oversteer issues, if not, I think I need to start taking camber out of the rear, -2.2* is probably too much...

eage8

iTrader: (9)

This weekend was pretty brutal...

Autocrossed the car yesterday after spending all morning tracking down issues with my CAS wiring into my megasquirt.

muythaibxr had undid a bunch of custom modifications that were there to try to get rid of the trigger noise, and I didn't realize I had to move what pins it was using in the harness back to the normal ones.

so after doing that and setting the timing on the new trigger wheel, I was running super late so I just threw the tires on the trailer and a jack + impact in the car and left (no camera sorry ), not bringing any of the tools I usually do. and barely got there in time before tech inspection closed (I actually teched on my street tires)

in SSM there was a C6 Z06 on hoosiers, and a supercharged miata on hankooks and some other cars. I took first, but the car kept on hesitating on course which I attributed to fuel starve (I didn't have time to go to the gas station...) but on my last run the car quit all together on the first turn. but started back up as I was getting pushed off course... once again I assumed it was fuel starved.

2014 Championship Event #1 Results

I also beat 2 of the cobras in XP that I've been gunning for, which was nice, but still would have only managed 4th in XP, I think with that last run (especially with no hesitation issues) I could have 2nd in XP.


the car didn't start again after changing tires, so I put 2 gallons of gas in it from a friend and it started, but wasn't happy about it, and wouldn't rev past 3000 rpm. I tried to limp it home, but it wasn't really having it.

I stopped a few times and couldn't figure it out, the car worked great as long as I didn't turn right or hit any bumps, and I would have to turn left to fix it if the ignition went out... I finally stopped at a rest area and poked around and found that one of the wires in my stock CAS wire had broken, it was only working because the wires were touching. by chance I still had my wire strippers in the car from the wiring that morning, so I fixed it temporarily and made it home:



that's literally the only stock wire in my main harness, I reused it because it was nice a shielded... but I'll have to replace it now.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

Oil cooler:
oil cooler worked great, the fan keeps the oil as cool as the coolant will let it be, but it's still no match for the coolant when it starts to get hot. but the main thing is fixed, it stays around 190*-200* in grid.

radiator fans:
my fixed spade connectors still didn't fix my finicky radiator fans... they still randomly don't turn on (usually one will turn on, but not the other). I'm thinking it's probably the crappy radio shack relays I have turning them on, and possibly the fact that both fans are trying to turn on at the same time and pulling too many amps. I'm going to get some new relays (raid some cars at the junk yard probably) and wire an additional output into my megasquirt to control the second fan and stagger the turn on temps to they don't put as much load on the system.

driftxsequence

iTrader: (8)

Have you noticed any difference in smoothness running the FFE trigger kit? I have it in a box at home and havent had time to put it in the car. I'm also curious what wires ended up where to get it running correctly!! I believe it calls for a +5v, a ground and a signal wire? The plan is to reuse the the current 4 wire shielded wire currently in place and just move the ends around..

eage8

iTrader: (9)

It's hard to say, since I don't drive the car too often, and it always feels amazingly smooth compared to my subaru haha. If you got the version with the hall sensor (the only one worth getting imho), it needs signal, signal ground and 12V.

I should have taken a picture of what I did... but I cut the plug off an old CAS I had (that had frayed wires near the end anyway, so it was no good) and used the original trigger wheel signal and ground wires to run the sensor and wired then 12V into the ground of the 2nd trigger. and then on the inside of the car where it goes into the megasquirt I just moved the 2nd trigger ground from the MS to the switched 12V I run my gauges and stuff off of.

it's pretty easy to tell which wire is for which trigger if you take the cap off the CAS.

eage8

iTrader: (9)

some pictures form yesterday:





after the crank sensor wire broke:

GrossPolluter

iTrader: (1)

Sorry to bring up old stuff, but I searched through 10 pages of your build to find that info on the rear camber adjusters. I forgot how many degrees the Max camber adjusters ended up changing on your car vs stock. Thanks