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Bringing past a post from 2 years ago about your fan setup - I finally have acquired the fan like yours and I'm curious what you did for plug ends. Did you chop off the stock 2 prong plug or find ones that fit?
Not to hijack your thread but you seem to be pretty knowledgeable about auto crossing rotaries. Does porting your engine automatically put you in SM? I have a Street port and not much else so I've been running in CSP to be competitive but I don't think that's right from what I can see in the rule book.
Yeah... porting puts you in SM. A cam would put someone in SM too, so it's not that much different than a piston engine. In my experience though, CSP isn't that much slower than SM on a national level, sometimes they're even faster lol
but yeah, on a local level I would just ask the other CSP guys if it's ok. an FC isn't really competitive in CSP anyway. But SM is pretty intimidating.
Originally Posted by driftxsequence
Bringing past a post from 2 years ago about your fan setup - I finally have acquired the fan like yours and I'm curious what you did for plug ends. Did you chop off the stock 2 prong plug or find ones that fit?
I had to go into the office on Sunday so I drove the FC... on the way home the throttle stuck open pretty good, but the clutch in, turned the car off and pulled over (good news, my rev limiter works)
the throttle body wouldn't close, even with pressure on the linkage and then eventually, it just snapped shut... after testing it a few times, probably stupidly, I started the car and drove it home just fine...
last night I popped the throttle body off to find this:
Half the screws on this FD throttle body were installed backwards, I assume to attempt to make the air spin? well none of them were tight and screws don't seat well to round surfaces... and the linkage is only threaded on 1 side of the plate. so the screw is still in the threads, but the plate could pivot on the other screw and cause the throttle jam.
luckily I found it before I lost the screw into the engine...
all the screws are now all correctly installed tightly with red loctite
you know... now I am going to take mine apart. Mine was randomly stick WOT, but I "thought" it was my mechanical OMP rod catching on the back of the alternator where the factory harness runs. It did it the other day after I know everything is clear...
which efr did you go with?so simple and clutter-free with the iwg. this should make a huge difference auto x will it not? responsive. bottom end. everything you need
which efr did you go with?so simple and clutter-free with the iwg. this should make a huge difference auto x will it not? responsive. bottom end. everything you need
After a lot of debate... I went with the 7670. it should be the best for autocross.
combined with the 4 port boost control and water injection it should be pretty ridiculous...
The only thing I'm worried about is power @ ~8000 rpm. I might have to swap the 5.13 gears in my diff for something a bit more reasonable (4.88s or 4.56s)
After a lot of debate... I went with the 7670. it should be the best for autocross.
combined with the 4 port boost control and water injection it should be pretty ridiculous...
The only thing I'm worried about is power @ ~8000 rpm. I might have to swap the 5.13 gears in my diff for something a bit more reasonable (4.88s or 4.56s)
I remember you said your running 9.4:1 compression rotors. Are you worried about too much boost and not enough wastegate? I remember someone saying the iwg was good for a minimum of 12psi , and I'm assuming they meant with the standard 9:1 or 8.5:1 turbo rotors
I remember you said your running 9.4:1 compression rotors. Are you worried about too much boost and not enough wastegate? I remember someone saying the iwg was good for a minimum of 12psi , and I'm assuming they meant with the standard 9:1 or 8.5:1 turbo rotors
I have 9.7:1 rotors. I haven't seen anyone complain about boost creep at all. and looking at the wastegate routing path in the turbo, I'm not surprised at all, it pipe sit right from the runners off the flange right into the downpipe dump with a gradiual sweep.
I have the turbosmart actuator which is tune-able, the 2 port actuator is 14 psi, but it has two 7 psi springs in it. I'm just going to take it apart and take 1 out. that should be fine for minimum boost. I'm going to set the water injection up to cut down to 7 psi if the tank runs low, but otherwise run closer to 15, we'll see how it goes.
I finished the first splitter prototype about 10pm last night... loaded it up on the trailer and brought it to autocross:
It worked out pretty well. It definitely helped turn in a decent amount, which I have been struggling with. I also definitely needed it on this course too, which was really tight:
I drove ok... I wasn't terribly pleased with out I drove until I saw the results and realized all the bigger high power cars were struggling too. all in all I'm pretty happy with how the day went.
It needs some work still. It was disigned to street mod rules which allow it to be 6" forward from the front bumper.
I started with 1/2" ceder plywood (from lowes )
The front part is held on by long acre racing splitter supports (which will be getting modified because one already backed out and got lost on course)
The rear is 1" aluminum box bolted to where the tie downs used to attach. on the splitter end it's 1/8" aluminum angle with 1/4" holes drilled into everything and a pin goes through to told it together. I can reach through the wheel well and pull the pin out and it all comes apart.
front is aluminum sheet held on by more 1/8" aluminum angle. bolted to the splitter, rivited to the aluminum sheet:
There are huge washers on everything on the underside:
Are you using the MS3 for boost control?
You can do some pretty cool stuff with table switching to change your boost profiles and timing/AFR for water meth.
I have my AEM water meth kit's "Boost safe" output setup to energize a relay and disable my boost control solenoid.
This doen't change my timing, but defaults to a lower boost.
With MS3 and table switching and AEM water meth, you can have the "boost safe" output disable the switched signal for table switching. This will automatically lower your boost and changing timing, VE map, ect whenever the tank goes low or if it shorts out.
I am going to retain my splitter similar to yours but I am going to weld some box tubing to the front subframe and bolt some smaller box "legs" to the back of the splitter so it slides in and locates, then just pins on. I just want a little more support for higher speeds.
Looks like a very good prototype.
You could use Kydex instead of aluminum as your filler panel. It may be more durable and wont get dinged up.
Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; 08-10-15 at 11:15 AM.
Are you using the MS3 for boost control?
You can do some pretty cool stuff with table switching to change your boost profiles and timing/AFR for water meth.
I have my AEM water meth kit's "Boost safe" output setup to energize a relay and disable my boost control solenoid.
This doen't change my timing, but defaults to a lower boost.
With MS3 and table switching and AEM water meth, you can have the "boost safe" output disable the switched signal for table switching. This will automatically lower your boost and changing timing, VE map, ect whenever the tank goes low or if it shorts out.
Yeah, I'm going to use the MS3 to control boost and do the same sort of thing. I ended up upgrading the water injector kit I have to an aquamist HFS-3 which has the same sort of failsafe outputs.
After a lot of debate... I went with the 7670. it should be the best for autocross.
Excited to see this, I feel like this is the only turbo that it tempting me away from the twins. Very anxious to see how it works for you. I may need to finally come out to FedEx after all to check it out first hand.
Excited to see this, I feel like this is the only turbo that it tempting me away from the twins. Very anxious to see how it works for you. I may need to finally come out to FedEx after all to check it out first hand.
Yes! Finally you'll come over to the dark side. You'll never return to small crappy lots
but yeah, it won't be until next season
I have a lot of stuff that is all going on at once... after adding the aero is the only time with this car that I've felt I needed more power.... so that's what its getting
I have 9.7:1 rotors. I haven't seen anyone complain about boost creep at all. and looking at the wastegate routing path in the turbo, I'm not surprised at all, it pipe sit right from the runners off the flange right into the downpipe dump with a gradiual sweep.
I have the turbosmart actuator which is tune-able, the 2 port actuator is 14 psi, but it has two 7 psi springs in it. I'm just going to take it apart and take 1 out. that should be fine for minimum boost. I'm going to set the water injection up to cut down to 7 psi if the tank runs low, but otherwise run closer to 15, we'll see how it goes.
I too love the purpose built look the splitter provides and the balance with the rear wing.
A cheap easy way to black out the splitter parts would be Dupli-color truck bed liner spray can. Its thick and textured so it doesn't soak into the wood and take tons of coats and it will flex with the aluminum section as well instead of flaking off.
"I put that **** on everything"
I forget if I already preached this cheap easy race car solution on your thread or not- sorry. You can even create body patches or interior panels out of duct tape and spray them for a semi-permanent solution!
Its like poor man's non structural CF or the old canvas and dope method- LOL
07-23-15, 09:31 AM
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