eage8's SSM/HPDE FC Turbo
09-16-13, 06:04 PM
#227
*sigh*.....
so I blew up my engine again on Sunday morning. I was leaving to go to an autocross when my car decided it was going to boost to like 20 psi (I should be running ~12psi).... and then crack the rear iron.
I'm pretty sure my temporary wastegate actuator fix (wrong sized circlip) failed... and somehow the wastegate arm pinned the wastegate closed when it came off.
new rear iron has been ordered from mazdaspeed... I'm going to try to get this re-re-built and back up and running for and autocross test and tune on the 28th...
so I blew up my engine again on Sunday morning. I was leaving to go to an autocross when my car decided it was going to boost to like 20 psi (I should be running ~12psi).... and then crack the rear iron.
I'm pretty sure my temporary wastegate actuator fix (wrong sized circlip) failed... and somehow the wastegate arm pinned the wastegate closed when it came off.
new rear iron has been ordered from mazdaspeed... I'm going to try to get this re-re-built and back up and running for and autocross test and tune on the 28th...
09-16-13, 10:49 PM
#228
Sorry to hear it.
I am battling a prespool actuator rod that keeps falling off. A bit of the original c-clip is so rusted in the groove I can't get it out. I can get a new c-clip in, but it doesn't fully seat and pops out.
I am going to tack weld a washer to the c-clip pin.
I don't know if you can still get it (discontinued), but the Greddy pop-off/relief valve saved my FC from overboost many a time.
It threads into a 1" NPT nipple (I used an aluminum conduit nipple). Back the hex shaft out and then in to where you just feel it engage spring tension and then the # turns per boost opening is quite accurate as per the (Japanese) instructions.
Set it two psi above what you want to run and check it isn't opening by putting grease on the piston exposed through the port. You can set it this way too.
I am battling a prespool actuator rod that keeps falling off. A bit of the original c-clip is so rusted in the groove I can't get it out. I can get a new c-clip in, but it doesn't fully seat and pops out.
I am going to tack weld a washer to the c-clip pin.
I don't know if you can still get it (discontinued), but the Greddy pop-off/relief valve saved my FC from overboost many a time.
It threads into a 1" NPT nipple (I used an aluminum conduit nipple). Back the hex shaft out and then in to where you just feel it engage spring tension and then the # turns per boost opening is quite accurate as per the (Japanese) instructions.
Set it two psi above what you want to run and check it isn't opening by putting grease on the piston exposed through the port. You can set it this way too.
09-17-13, 10:07 AM
#230
I paid for speedy shipping on the iron... it'll be here tomorrow. I also ordered a giant pack of circlips
hopefully there is one that's the right size. from some research it appears a 3/16" circlip should be the right size, but we'll see. the stock one is probably metric, which I couldn't find anywheremade some progress on the engine last night:
I'm going to attempt to not pull the turbo or LIM or oil pan.... and just pull the rear iron and keep the rest of the engine together.
Here is a thread I started asking about it if anyone is interested:
https://www.rx7club.com/general-rota...-iron-1046365/
https://www.rx7club.com/2nd-generati...-*pic-1008221/
09-18-13, 11:57 AM
#232
I would check the apex seals for warp from the heat of detonation and cracking just in case you hadn't planned on it.
My last engine had a mystery leak for a couple weekends of racing. I confirmed it was the rear iron at the dowel and when I took the engine apart the rear 3mm factory apex seals were all cracked down the middle. I was just lucky it hadn't come apart.
My last engine had a mystery leak for a couple weekends of racing. I confirmed it was the rear iron at the dowel and when I took the engine apart the rear 3mm factory apex seals were all cracked down the middle. I was just lucky it hadn't come apart.
09-18-13, 12:07 PM
#233
I would check the apex seals for warp from the heat of detonation and cracking just in case you hadn't planned on it.
My last engine had a mystery leak for a couple weekends of racing. I confirmed it was the rear iron at the dowel and when I took the engine apart the rear 3mm factory apex seals were all cracked down the middle. I was just lucky it hadn't come apart.
My last engine had a mystery leak for a couple weekends of racing. I confirmed it was the rear iron at the dowel and when I took the engine apart the rear 3mm factory apex seals were all cracked down the middle. I was just lucky it hadn't come apart.
09-19-13, 09:37 PM
#234
current status of the engine, pretty much ready to start taking apart (just need clamps):
new rear plate came in... new and improved thicker casting version
then I got the drill and tap out and immediately tried to break it:
but it turned out fine, tapped the rear coolant nipple for 1/4" NPT for my turbo coolant line (same as on my old iron):
Now I have to clean up the stock port again like I did on the iron that's on my engine and we should be good to go.
new rear plate came in... new and improved thicker casting version
then I got the drill and tap out and immediately tried to break it:
but it turned out fine, tapped the rear coolant nipple for 1/4" NPT for my turbo coolant line (same as on my old iron):
Now I have to clean up the stock port again like I did on the iron that's on my engine and we should be good to go.
09-23-13, 11:20 AM
#238
put in a long day yesterday:
Here's the crack, there is another slightly smaller crack that didn't go all the way through
I wasn't really taking pictures, but the engine is back in the car. everything went ok. I re-used my pineapple racing HD water seals and oil o-ring. they looked fine.
I just need to install the starter and the down pipe and I'm good to go. I did break the down pipe to mid-pipe gasket while moving it so I ordered another one, should be here tomorrow.
I might try to replace the cable that goes from my circuit breaker to my starter while I'm at it. I have a feeling it's been causing some of my starting issues as neither of the ends are particularly good.
Here's the crack, there is another slightly smaller crack that didn't go all the way through
I wasn't really taking pictures, but the engine is back in the car. everything went ok. I re-used my pineapple racing HD water seals and oil o-ring. they looked fine.
I just need to install the starter and the down pipe and I'm good to go. I did break the down pipe to mid-pipe gasket while moving it so I ordered another one, should be here tomorrow.
I might try to replace the cable that goes from my circuit breaker to my starter while I'm at it. I have a feeling it's been causing some of my starting issues as neither of the ends are particularly good.
09-23-13, 12:22 PM
#240
ouch 
I hope the engine holds up! what do you plan on doing to remedy the failure from before?
I meant to send a PM to have you send measurements for your vmount. It looks like there is a steel plate sandwiched between two pieces of aluminum that act as ducting?
I hope the engine holds up! what do you plan on doing to remedy the failure from before?
I meant to send a PM to have you send measurements for your vmount. It looks like there is a steel plate sandwiched between two pieces of aluminum that act as ducting?
09-23-13, 01:44 PM
#241
I also replaced the rear iron with a '91 TII style iron with a much larger oil passage casting which won't crack as easily.
I'm also updating my firmware of the megasqirt (I'm on a pretty old beta/alpha build) to allow me to use some of the new safety features. and I'm definitely lowering the boost limiter to something around 13 psi.
I need to improve the ducting on my v-mount, but there is basically a metal bracket which acts as the frame that the top of the radiator and the intercooler are bolted to with a large sheet of aluminum bolted to it.
Here is a different picture:
09-23-13, 03:42 PM
#242
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,849
Received 2,613 Likes
on
1,852 Posts
i would do that! in fact i'd lower the boost limiter to basically the spot where you're tuned +1psi, and then as you tune it you can slowly raise it. walk before you can run!
09-23-13, 04:07 PM
#243
I'm also going to be swapping out my Greddy boost controller with a solenoid controlled by the MS3 pretty soon, so that'll give me a lot more control over it... in the end I think this damn wastegate is going to be what forces me to go with an aftermarket turbo.
09-25-13, 09:14 PM
#246
Finished up the car and drove it to work today. Everything seems awesome.
wastegate is working well again. I set the boost override to 195 kpa (~14 psi). Took a look at my fuel map... it only goes up to 205 kpa, so the 220 kpa boost limit was really dumb, I'm not really sure what I was thinking when I set that....
The bad:
I forgot to plug in my o2 sensor before I started the car and killed it... picked up a new one from autozone hopefully that fixes it (innovate widebands just use VW jetta o2 sensors).
The car is still having starting issues... anyone else have starting issues with bin mounted batteries? how do you have yours grounded?
The new oil cooler placement cools the oil really well (almost too well haha). it was pretty much hovering around 170-180* the entire time (oil cooler thermostat temp). one time it got up to 200, but that might have been because I was sitting still... I forget before it would hover around 230-240 on the highway....
wastegate is working well again. I set the boost override to 195 kpa (~14 psi). Took a look at my fuel map... it only goes up to 205 kpa, so the 220 kpa boost limit was really dumb, I'm not really sure what I was thinking when I set that....
The bad:
I forgot to plug in my o2 sensor before I started the car and killed it... picked up a new one from autozone hopefully that fixes it (innovate widebands just use VW jetta o2 sensors).
The car is still having starting issues... anyone else have starting issues with bin mounted batteries? how do you have yours grounded?
The new oil cooler placement cools the oil really well (almost too well haha). it was pretty much hovering around 170-180* the entire time (oil cooler thermostat temp). one time it got up to 200, but that might have been because I was sitting still... I forget
before it would hover around 230-240 on the highway....
09-26-13, 09:13 AM
#247
Where do you read your oil temp? i am reading mine from the oil pedestal and mine shows around 170 at all times. I cant believe yours was that high before.
You work quick! If I did that to my car I would not have even had the engine out yet. congrats! Hope you do well in your upcoming autox.
You work quick! If I did that to my car I would not have even had the engine out yet. congrats! Hope you do well in your upcoming autox.
09-26-13, 10:14 AM
#248
Where do you read your oil temp? i am reading mine from the oil pedestal and mine shows around 170 at all times. I cant believe yours was that high before.
You work quick! If I did that to my car I would not have even had the engine out yet. congrats! Hope you do well in your upcoming autox.
You work quick! If I did that to my car I would not have even had the engine out yet. congrats! Hope you do well in your upcoming autox.
The autocross this weekend is a test and tune/school. I should get a million runs and hopefully learn something.... haha.
This will be the send off for the 4 hoosiers I got for $20 at the beginning of the season
I'll run them till they cord, switch to the new much better condition (but still used) hoosiers to see how much time I drop, then 4 runs later I'll probably switch to my NT01s so I don't use up the good hoosiers... Hopefully I can fit 8 wheels and tires on my trailer/in my car One of the reasons I worked so fast is I missed this test and tune in the spring because my engine blew right before it and didn't want to miss it again... and the last autocross of the season is next weekend (10/6). It did take me like 2 months to rebuild my engine the first time
09-27-13, 03:20 PM
#250
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: https://www2.mazda.com/en/100th/
Posts: 30,849
Received 2,613 Likes
on
1,852 Posts
when i did mine i had an teeny little battery in the back. good sized battery cables, ground was right near the battery on the unused seat belt bolt i think.
the little battery didn't cut it, switching to a stock sized battery made it work just as well as stock
the little battery didn't cut it, switching to a stock sized battery made it work just as well as stock