eage8's SSM/HPDE FC Turbo
#455
Noob Member
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Join Date: Aug 2009
Location: Mesa, Az, Pheonix, Az
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just read through the whole thread! the car is looking great and looks to be performing great! what caught my eye was your wheel set up. can you PM me more information on tire and wheel sizes? as well as the widebody?
#459
Money talks-mine says bye
iTrader: (18)
Wow, you really run your rubber right to the edge. I can't imagine 315's being too small, but you might want to reconsider stepping up to 335's unless those Ronin fenders give you more room expand your spacers out.
It's really surprising that you can get away with 10mm clearance running slicks at an autocross. Must be the 12" width limiting sidewall deflection. I'd think you'd recognize if you had rubbing since you swap between street and race wheels; have you looked for signs of swing arm contact?
It's really surprising that you can get away with 10mm clearance running slicks at an autocross. Must be the 12" width limiting sidewall deflection. I'd think you'd recognize if you had rubbing since you swap between street and race wheels; have you looked for signs of swing arm contact?
#460
and yeah, 315s are pretty stretched on 12s, so they don't move a whole lot. I haven't seen any new signs of rubbing on the swing arm . trying to get 275/17 hoosiers on 17x10s under stock rear fenders caused me a lot more issues.
you can see in this picture I have a good bit more room in the back than I have in the front:
you can see in this picture I have a good bit more room in the back than I have in the front:
#461
attempted some weight reduction last night....
- The last speaker I had in the car
- the front tie downs (I have a ronin speedworks aluminum front tow hook)
- rear washer bottle
- rear window wiper motor (need to find a 28mm rubber plug in the junk yard...)
Grand total.... -8 lbs
a bit disappointing
- The last speaker I had in the car
- the front tie downs (I have a ronin speedworks aluminum front tow hook)
- rear washer bottle
- rear window wiper motor (need to find a 28mm rubber plug in the junk yard...)
Grand total.... -8 lbs
a bit disappointing
#462
Rotary Motoring
iTrader: (9)
Don't despair! That was an easy 8lbs
Weight reduction is one of those things that adds up and you can do a bit here and there as you have time/budget.
Estimates
58lbs- Trade your wide tires/Rotas for my 16" Volks $free (this ones a joke)
40lbs- Remove roll bar when auto-xing $free
22lbs- Optima D51R to Shoria $300
20lbs- Sunroof to non-sunroof conversion $free (off TOP of car)
20lbs- Fiberglass front/rear bumper covers $2-300
20lbs- Fiberglass/CF shell style seats with brackets to floor $200-2,000
10lbs- Fixed headlights $free (B-wave FG bumper or fix the up)
8bs- Power to manual window $free-200
5lbs- Power mirrors to aftermarket manual $free-300
3lbs- Delete factory "wing" $free
Total= around 150lbs for around $700 (not counting joke of course)
Weight reduction is one of those things that adds up and you can do a bit here and there as you have time/budget.
Estimates
58lbs- Trade your wide tires/Rotas for my 16" Volks $free (this ones a joke)
40lbs- Remove roll bar when auto-xing $free
22lbs- Optima D51R to Shoria $300
20lbs- Sunroof to non-sunroof conversion $free (off TOP of car)
20lbs- Fiberglass front/rear bumper covers $2-300
20lbs- Fiberglass/CF shell style seats with brackets to floor $200-2,000
10lbs- Fixed headlights $free (B-wave FG bumper or fix the up)
8bs- Power to manual window $free-200
5lbs- Power mirrors to aftermarket manual $free-300
3lbs- Delete factory "wing" $free
Total= around 150lbs for around $700 (not counting joke of course)
#463
I thought about removing the roll bar... and installing it for track days I weighed it before I put it in and it's a solid 50 lbs
I've actually kept increasing my battery size because my car has issues starting... once I get that fixed I'll put an AGM (or a new Lithium-iron) in.
I have a non sun-roof panel and headliner waiting to go on/in the car that one might have to wait till winter though....
If the car does get into SM next year min weight will only be 2700 so I don't have too far to go.
#464
So last night I tested some front bump steer:
-2.0" -0.0115"
-1.5" -0.0055"
-1.0" -0.0010"
-0.5" +0.0020"
0" 0.0"
+0.5" -0.0110"
+1.0" -0.0295"
+1.5" -0.0410"
+2.0" -0.0555"
+2.5" -0.0740"
(+ being extension, - is compression)
not too bad, but I think I can get it a bit better.
while I had the strut off to I weighed it:
spring weights to be thorough:
I don't know what normal coilovers weigh
I also discovered they sent me 8" 900 lb/in springs instead fo the 6" ones that I ordered... which I'm not too pleased about. (i thought that had looked strangely long....)
also when I was testing bump steer on the way back down my control arm seized and I couldn't push it down by hand unless I put a lot of force on it, I've known about this for a while and it's probably one of the reasons why my car picks up the front wheel so easily (even without the sway bar now)
so I took the control arm off and replaced the mazdaspeed sourced delrin bushings off and replaced them with some MMR delrin (front) /UHMW (rear) peices I ordered a while ago for this very reason.
you can see the rears have a much larger recess cut into them, hopefully that'll help:
-2.0" -0.0115"
-1.5" -0.0055"
-1.0" -0.0010"
-0.5" +0.0020"
0" 0.0"
+0.5" -0.0110"
+1.0" -0.0295"
+1.5" -0.0410"
+2.0" -0.0555"
+2.5" -0.0740"
(+ being extension, - is compression)
not too bad, but I think I can get it a bit better.
while I had the strut off to I weighed it:
spring weights to be thorough:
I don't know what normal coilovers weigh
I also discovered they sent me 8" 900 lb/in springs instead fo the 6" ones that I ordered... which I'm not too pleased about. (i thought that had looked strangely long....)
also when I was testing bump steer on the way back down my control arm seized and I couldn't push it down by hand unless I put a lot of force on it, I've known about this for a while and it's probably one of the reasons why my car picks up the front wheel so easily (even without the sway bar now)
so I took the control arm off and replaced the mazdaspeed sourced delrin bushings off and replaced them with some MMR delrin (front) /UHMW (rear) peices I ordered a while ago for this very reason.
you can see the rears have a much larger recess cut into them, hopefully that'll help:
#465
Rotary Freak
iTrader: (3)
FYI I had to hone the front hole in the control arm quite a bit for the MMR delrin bushing to move freely. As machined, they're way too tight. Same with the back, although i just used sandpaper on the shank (shitty).
chances are the MMR and Mazdatrix are the same dimensions
chances are the MMR and Mazdatrix are the same dimensions
#466
yeah... they're stupid tight, I'm going to do the same thing.
I was actually thinking about just grinding off the barbs on the control arm, I haven't measured the ID of the bushing and the OD of the non-barbed section to see if that would be a good idea.
I was actually thinking about just grinding off the barbs on the control arm, I haven't measured the ID of the bushing and the OD of the non-barbed section to see if that would be a good idea.
#468
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
I'm running polyurethane bushings now, but I'm going to need to switch. I we had access to a lathe some delrin would be cool.
Did you ever get the chance to measure your spacing on the tie rod and lower joint?
I know the height is going to matter, but I'm trying to figure what length bolt to go with for my lower joint, and which spacers i should use for my bump steer
Did you ever get the chance to measure your spacing on the tie rod and lower joint?
I know the height is going to matter, but I'm trying to figure what length bolt to go with for my lower joint, and which spacers i should use for my bump steer
#469
did a bit of grinding last night on the front control arms:
before:
after:
it made enough clearance that the delrin bushing I took off is not loose on the control arm (after the barbs removed some ID....) so it should make a decent amount of difference.
before:
after:
it made enough clearance that the delrin bushing I took off is not loose on the control arm (after the barbs removed some ID....) so it should make a decent amount of difference.
#470
Also, a friend of mine has been been reworking some top hats I have for the rear to reduce the thickness so I can run them without loosing suspension travel:
not nearly done yet:
the goal is to make them the same thickness as these ground control top hats but with the correct (14mm) center hole:
not nearly done yet:
the goal is to make them the same thickness as these ground control top hats but with the correct (14mm) center hole:
#471
yessir
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Hey how's the boost creep issue been going?
We had a lot of over boosting issues with the stock turbo, so we ended up porting the waste gate holes insanely, and welding up a tial 38mm external gate to the back plate of the turbo. (Vented to atmosphere) Car still over boosted! So we had to weld a plate to block flow about 6 inches from the turbo in the downpipe.
Seems the stock turbo cant be controlled if you have too free flowing of an exhaust. Just be careful out there lol. Awesome build BTW.
We had a lot of over boosting issues with the stock turbo, so we ended up porting the waste gate holes insanely, and welding up a tial 38mm external gate to the back plate of the turbo. (Vented to atmosphere) Car still over boosted! So we had to weld a plate to block flow about 6 inches from the turbo in the downpipe.
Seems the stock turbo cant be controlled if you have too free flowing of an exhaust. Just be careful out there lol. Awesome build BTW.
#472
Hey how's the boost creep issue been going?
We had a lot of over boosting issues with the stock turbo, so we ended up porting the waste gate holes insanely, and welding up a tial 38mm external gate to the back plate of the turbo. (Vented to atmosphere) Car still over boosted! So we had to weld a plate to block flow about 6 inches from the turbo in the downpipe.
Seems the stock turbo cant be controlled if you have too free flowing of an exhaust. Just be careful out there lol. Awesome build BTW.
We had a lot of over boosting issues with the stock turbo, so we ended up porting the waste gate holes insanely, and welding up a tial 38mm external gate to the back plate of the turbo. (Vented to atmosphere) Car still over boosted! So we had to weld a plate to block flow about 6 inches from the turbo in the downpipe.
Seems the stock turbo cant be controlled if you have too free flowing of an exhaust. Just be careful out there lol. Awesome build BTW.
#474
modified top hats for the rear turned out awesome.
lower profile:
and a huge recess for the damper to go into:
tonight I finished up putting the front suspension back together and tightened up the front wheel bearings... hopefully the new rear springs come tomorrow so I can throw those and these new top hats on the back in time for the autocross on Saturday.
after that the rx7 is going to have to hang out outside for a while because I picked up a new engine for the subaru (it's current engine it horribly low on compression and leaks/burns oil like crazy... most likely going to seize any day now...)
lower profile:
and a huge recess for the damper to go into:
tonight I finished up putting the front suspension back together and tightened up the front wheel bearings... hopefully the new rear springs come tomorrow so I can throw those and these new top hats on the back in time for the autocross on Saturday.
after that the rx7 is going to have to hang out outside for a while because I picked up a new engine for the subaru (it's current engine it horribly low on compression and leaks/burns oil like crazy... most likely going to seize any day now...)
#475
so:
ball joint space to center of bearing = 1.375"
tie rod space to center of bearing = 1.15"
the bolt I have going through is 3.5", but I have a spacer on the other end of it and the rod end is pretty thick so you might be able to use a smaller one...