4-Rotor FC Build
08-06-12, 04:41 PM
#902
You are doing a great job there John 
I was wondering about your oil cooler placement. I see that these are Earls Temp-a-curve coolers, I guess the 9" version. As I am in need of a dual oil cooler setup too, I did some mesurement on mine (S4 NA, bare shell)
As you removed a good chunk of the lower front I am wondering how low the oil coolers are actually sitting. They dont seem flush with the lower front bumber area.
How does the underside of your custom undertray connect to this ?
I am also running into a problem with the headlight motors, they are a good deal in the way. I was planning to do some ducting behind the coolers pointing down so that the air gets sucked through the coolers from underneath.
Did you try your setup with the headlight motors ? Seems like there is not a lot of space even on your setup, looking at your pictures. I was really surprised once I installed my motors to find out that there is so less room left.
They go straight to the bottom of the undertray.
You might consider to put some sort of grill behind the bumper openings to protect these expensive coolers from foreign object damage
BTW, the Netherlands are like 60-70 kms away from me. If you need some help I would be happy to help out
Best Regards
Steven
I was wondering about your oil cooler placement. I see that these are Earls Temp-a-curve coolers, I guess the 9" version. As I am in need of a dual oil cooler setup too, I did some mesurement on mine (S4 NA, bare shell)
As you removed a good chunk of the lower front I am wondering how low the oil coolers are actually sitting. They dont seem flush with the lower front bumber area.
How does the underside of your custom undertray connect to this ?
I am also running into a problem with the headlight motors, they are a good deal in the way. I was planning to do some ducting behind the coolers pointing down so that the air gets sucked through the coolers from underneath.
Did you try your setup with the headlight motors ? Seems like there is not a lot of space even on your setup, looking at your pictures. I was really surprised once I installed my motors to find out that there is so less room left.
They go straight to the bottom of the undertray.
You might consider to put some sort of grill behind the bumper openings to protect these expensive coolers from foreign object damage
BTW, the Netherlands are like 60-70 kms away from me. If you need some help I would be happy to help out
Best Regards
Steven
I dug through my picture archive (Since the beginning of the project I have made 2219 photo's
), and found some pictures for youHere you can see how the ducting is mounted in the chassis, there is about 80mm's or so between the chassis and the ducting, which is just enough to fit the headlight actuators in between there. I had them mounted while fabricating the ducting.
The oil coolers themselves aren't mounted at the bottomside, they are only mounted on the topside, hanging on 4 m6 bolts. There is about 5mm's between the bottom of the oil coolers and the lower ducting plate (and therefore the front bumper, the duting is bolted to the bumper) I need those 5mm's to be able to slide the oil coolers in place.
The coolers aren't earl ones, I compared a few different ones, (mocal, earl's, and brandless coolers) and could not find any difference whatsoever besides a branding sticker on the top and the price so I just got 2 brandless 19 row oil coolers. The grill behind the coolers is a good idea, I was already thinking about making one.
You are so close, it is going to be white with black details, just not matte
The exact colour will be RAL 9010, also known as pure white. A lot of people are giving me crap about the colour choice but I think it will look clean and fit the body well. This car doesn't need a screamy bright orange colour or huge banners to get some attention, the engine should be enough.
08-08-12, 01:05 AM
#903
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You are so close, it is going to be white with black details, just not matte
The exact colour will be RAL 9010, also known as pure white. A lot of people are giving me crap about the colour choice but I think it will look clean and fit the body well. This car doesn't need a screamy bright orange colour or huge banners to get some attention, the engine should be enough.
The exact colour will be RAL 9010, also known as pure white. A lot of people are giving me crap about the colour choice but I think it will look clean and fit the body well. This car doesn't need a screamy bright orange colour or huge banners to get some attention, the engine should be enough.
08-08-12, 04:06 PM
#904
i just found this the other day, and WOW!!! i made it through the whole thing.
Any how i loved the 3 pass muffler! mostly because of the shape. im a nerd when it comes to integrating rotor-esc features in RX7s.
also not to cloud your thread since it seems you are much past this point, but i saw something one of the other members did for a radiator and seems like something similar would be perfect for you.
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...947245/page36/ post 877 explains it.
the only reason i bring it up is cooling a 2 rotor is a task, let alone a 4 rotor.
Just an idea.
Also, have you considered ducting the air that flows through the oil coolers to the front brakes?
Any how i loved the 3 pass muffler! mostly because of the shape. im a nerd when it comes to integrating rotor-esc features in RX7s.
also not to cloud your thread since it seems you are much past this point, but i saw something one of the other members did for a radiator and seems like something similar would be perfect for you.
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...947245/page36/ post 877 explains it.
the only reason i bring it up is cooling a 2 rotor is a task, let alone a 4 rotor.
Just an idea.
Also, have you considered ducting the air that flows through the oil coolers to the front brakes?
08-09-12, 02:54 PM
#905
Like superdan, I just found your thread and have been reading it for the last few days.
Not sure what part of the Netherlands you're in, but I doubt I'm too far away (Near Trier, Germany). I'd love to get a chance to see the car. Maybe I can meet up with you and some other rotaries at the Nurburgring and we can have a go at it. I'm currently working on finishing my build and like you my FC is going to be white. I don't have near the access to tools/facilities, but I've been working with what I've got.
Anyways, keep up the good work. Can't wait to see the "finished" product.
Not sure what part of the Netherlands you're in, but I doubt I'm too far away (Near Trier, Germany). I'd love to get a chance to see the car. Maybe I can meet up with you and some other rotaries at the Nurburgring and we can have a go at it. I'm currently working on finishing my build and like you my FC is going to be white. I don't have near the access to tools/facilities, but I've been working with what I've got.
Anyways, keep up the good work. Can't wait to see the "finished" product.
08-09-12, 03:48 PM
#906
Senior Member
@superdan: i've read that post (and looked at the drawing) and I think that guy going to have some cooling issues. John has simulated his rad in SW (its under ideal conditions) and this is the best he can do in flow terms, more flow without swirls = more cooling without going for more capacity.
Things stays that you must push all the hot water true the radiator and that causes internal swirls, if you do it the wrong way.
Things stays that you must push all the hot water true the radiator and that causes internal swirls, if you do it the wrong way.
08-10-12, 10:09 AM
#908
@superdan: i've read that post (and looked at the drawing) and I think that guy going to have some cooling issues. John has simulated his rad in SW (its under ideal conditions) and this is the best he can do in flow terms, more flow without swirls = more cooling without going for more capacity.
Things stays that you must push all the hot water true the radiator and that causes internal swirls, if you do it the wrong way.
Things stays that you must push all the hot water true the radiator and that causes internal swirls, if you do it the wrong way.
08-13-12, 05:46 AM
#910
i just found this the other day, and WOW!!! i made it through the whole thing.
Any how i loved the 3 pass muffler! mostly because of the shape. im a nerd when it comes to integrating rotor-esc features in RX7s.
also not to cloud your thread since it seems you are much past this point, but i saw something one of the other members did for a radiator and seems like something similar would be perfect for you.
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...947245/page36/ post 877 explains it.
the only reason i bring it up is cooling a 2 rotor is a task, let alone a 4 rotor.
Just an idea.
Also, have you considered ducting the air that flows through the oil coolers to the front brakes?
Any how i loved the 3 pass muffler! mostly because of the shape. im a nerd when it comes to integrating rotor-esc features in RX7s.
also not to cloud your thread since it seems you are much past this point, but i saw something one of the other members did for a radiator and seems like something similar would be perfect for you.
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...947245/page36/ post 877 explains it.
the only reason i bring it up is cooling a 2 rotor is a task, let alone a 4 rotor.
Just an idea.
Also, have you considered ducting the air that flows through the oil coolers to the front brakes?
Update
Did a lot of work on the car last week, made mounting points for the safety harnesses, and did a LOT of sanding, cleaning, straightening, degreasing, and painting. Finally took the car out of the paint booth this morning and took some pictures
08-13-12, 09:43 AM
#912
Junior Member
Very nice, is there something car related that you can't do? I am not being nasty, its just awesome when people can do every aspect of a car build.
Keep up the awesome work John, its very inspiring.
Keep up the awesome work John, its very inspiring.
08-13-12, 11:06 AM
#913
WOW! A white FC is gorgeous!!! I want a white FC for a DD soooo bad. one with the TII hood. whether it actually is a TII doesnt matter too much.
But any how your build is coming together very nicely!
I gotcha on the temp point, that is something i didnt consider.
But any how your build is coming together very nicely!
I gotcha on the temp point, that is something i didnt consider.
08-14-12, 01:42 AM
#918
CC of L-Squared Shots
08-14-12, 05:19 PM
#920
I added 4 points at the floor (2 per side) as far to the rear as possible, you can see one of them in this picture if you look closely or compare this picture with your car.
4 more points were added on the rear strut bar tube. The mounting points are machined bushings that have a thicker part that prevents the bushing being pulled through the tube (or sheetmetal in case of the floorboard, it's really important to do this at the floorboard because the sheetmetal is so fragile, I made the thicker piece 70mm's in diameter there to spread the load).
You might be able to use some of the stock mounting points though, but in my case it didn't work, I couldn't tighten the harness enough when using existing mounting points. Could have something to do with the sparco 4-point harnesses I have, or the fact that I'm pretty skinny.
No I'm afraid not, I only have a chassis dyno at my disposal (I have one together with a few friends).
