That's true, does remind me of JapFest in The Netherlands, was a drifting RX-8 in purple/pink

 

I dug through my picture archive (Since the beginning of the project I have made 2219 photo's ), and found some pictures for you

Here you can see how the ducting is mounted in the chassis, there is about 80mm's or so between the chassis and the ducting, which is just enough to fit the headlight actuators in between there. I had them mounted while fabricating the ducting.




The oil coolers themselves aren't mounted at the bottomside, they are only mounted on the topside, hanging on 4 m6 bolts. There is about 5mm's between the bottom of the oil coolers and the lower ducting plate (and therefore the front bumper, the duting is bolted to the bumper) I need those 5mm's to be able to slide the oil coolers in place.



The coolers aren't earl ones, I compared a few different ones, (mocal, earl's, and brandless coolers) and could not find any difference whatsoever besides a branding sticker on the top and the price so I just got 2 brandless 19 row oil coolers. The grill behind the coolers is a good idea, I was already thinking about making one.



You are so close, it is going to be white with black details, just not matte
The exact colour will be RAL 9010, also known as pure white. A lot of people are giving me crap about the colour choice but I think it will look clean and fit the body well. This car doesn't need a screamy bright orange colour or huge banners to get some attention, the engine should be enough.

 

White is one of the best colors for an FC. Speaking from experience I don't think you will regret the choice.

 

i just found this the other day, and WOW!!! i made it through the whole thing.

Any how i loved the 3 pass muffler! mostly because of the shape. im a nerd when it comes to integrating rotor-esc features in RX7s.

also not to cloud your thread since it seems you are much past this point, but i saw something one of the other members did for a radiator and seems like something similar would be perfect for you.

https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...947245/page36/ post 877 explains it.

the only reason i bring it up is cooling a 2 rotor is a task, let alone a 4 rotor.
Just an idea.

Also, have you considered ducting the air that flows through the oil coolers to the front brakes?

 

Like superdan, I just found your thread and have been reading it for the last few days.

Not sure what part of the Netherlands you're in, but I doubt I'm too far away (Near Trier, Germany). I'd love to get a chance to see the car. Maybe I can meet up with you and some other rotaries at the Nurburgring and we can have a go at it. I'm currently working on finishing my build and like you my FC is going to be white. I don't have near the access to tools/facilities, but I've been working with what I've got.

Anyways, keep up the good work. Can't wait to see the "finished" product.

 

@superdan: i've read that post (and looked at the drawing) and I think that guy going to have some cooling issues. John has simulated his rad in SW (its under ideal conditions) and this is the best he can do in flow terms, more flow without swirls = more cooling without going for more capacity.
Things stays that you must push all the hot water true the radiator and that causes internal swirls, if you do it the wrong way.

 

Jeebus...that guys core looks more suitable for an intercooler than a radiator. I think John is a lot better off, especially with the amount of simulation and research work he's done.

 

it is an IC core

i understand that, but i figured he would simulate this one too. figure start with a similar end tank design and go from there. i never got so far as too modding my fd to make more power, but it seems like cooling is a pretty fair issue with only 2 rotors, so anything he could do for 4 rotors would be helpful.

 

So I'm assuming part of the bumper or the old bumper assembly itself is pretty much gone since everything has been pushed forward?

 

I'm not sure if an intercooler core would work better, It will probably work, but if it would cool so much better all aluminium racing radiators would probably be build like that. And the amount of cooling you need isn't directly linked to how much rotors you have, it's linked to how much heat you are generating which shouldn't be that bad concidering this is an n/a engine. I'd be much more worried about cooling issues with a 500hp 2-rotor turbo engine.



Yes the structural beam and the foam inside the bumper is gone. The bumper does attach to that square tube on the front of the car though, as well as about 20 more points


Update

Did a lot of work on the car last week, made mounting points for the safety harnesses, and did a LOT of sanding, cleaning, straightening, degreasing, and painting. Finally took the car out of the paint booth this morning and took some pictures

 

looks great mate but its missing tubs

 

Very nice, is there something car related that you can't do? I am not being nasty, its just awesome when people can do every aspect of a car build.

Keep up the awesome work John, its very inspiring.

 

WOW! A white FC is gorgeous!!! I want a white FC for a DD soooo bad. one with the TII hood. whether it actually is a TII doesnt matter too much.

But any how your build is coming together very nicely!

I gotcha on the temp point, that is something i didnt consider.

 

Awesome.

were did you made your mounting hardware for the harness?

 

Very nice John. White and a nice basically stock body is my favorite look on the FC by far.

 

Are you going to test the engine outside of the car?

Great to see some more progress, very nice!

Grtz Dee.

 

rotary shitting on pistons, true love right here

 

+1! Hell, I'd love to see a video of your engine working as well! I've always loved how a 4-rotor acts

 

i am jealous of what you have at your disposal. awesome thread i cant wait to see more or it

 

I added 4 points at the floor (2 per side) as far to the rear as possible, you can see one of them in this picture if you look closely or compare this picture with your car.




4 more points were added on the rear strut bar tube. The mounting points are machined bushings that have a thicker part that prevents the bushing being pulled through the tube (or sheetmetal in case of the floorboard, it's really important to do this at the floorboard because the sheetmetal is so fragile, I made the thicker piece 70mm's in diameter there to spread the load).




You might be able to use some of the stock mounting points though, but in my case it didn't work, I couldn't tighten the harness enough when using existing mounting points. Could have something to do with the sparco 4-point harnesses I have, or the fact that I'm pretty skinny.


No I'm afraid not, I only have a chassis dyno at my disposal (I have one together with a few friends).

 

i hope u put somekind of carpet in it and make it look nice rather than all raged

 

Holy jungle gym batman!

 

This is probably the best fitted roll cage that I have ever seen! I like how the rear window is still functional lol

 

Dang, and you still have room for a large dog to fit!

 

haha could you imagine a dog back there while he was diving that thing that dog would be pissed!!!