4-Rotor FC Build
#801
Or hood struts.
Which John probably designed and built himself.
I'm only qualified to marvel at most of the work done in this thread, but the hood latch is more in my wheelhouse and I think it's a curious design, requiring two discrete steps.
I'm sure it wasn't a haphazard decision and was just interested in the logic that's all.
Which John probably designed and built himself.
I'm only qualified to marvel at most of the work done in this thread, but the hood latch is more in my wheelhouse and I think it's a curious design, requiring two discrete steps.
I'm sure it wasn't a haphazard decision and was just interested in the logic that's all.
Fair question, Normally there is a spring that pushes the hood open so the second latch can be unlocked. This isn't the case with this hood. When the hood is closed the hood rests firmly onto rubber bushings, which push the hood locking pins into the latches, when one of the 2 latches is unlocked (Doesn't matter which one you do first, outside or inside) this side of the hood gets opened a bit because the rubber pushes it open. A normal hood probably wouldn't open because one side is still in the hood latch, but because this one has a big hole cut into it and is made from aluminium it just flexes a bit. It just opens about 3mm's or so but it's just enough for the latch to stay unlocked. I originally wanted to make something to be able to keep the latch unlocked or something like that, but it really works fine like this so I left it this way.
#803
Started working on a tank today, I still need a surge tank for the fuel supply, a catch can, windscreen wiper bottle and coolant overflow bottle. I could've tried to find 4 tanks and mount all of them, but that would look cluttered and I still had a lot of aluminium sheet left so I'm trying to make a custom tank that incorporates all those things. Should fit well with all the rest of the aluminium in the engine bay and look tidy.
The result of a few hours of fitting, making aluminium sheets and welding them together. I didn't draw this out on the computer or anything so it's taking a bit longer because I had to redo some things
Although the previous picture makes it look like it's almost done I only started with the surge tank. The other tanks will go beside it. The surge tank holds about 2,5L which should be more than plenty.
The result of a few hours of fitting, making aluminium sheets and welding them together. I didn't draw this out on the computer or anything so it's taking a bit longer because I had to redo some things
Although the previous picture makes it look like it's almost done I only started with the surge tank. The other tanks will go beside it. The surge tank holds about 2,5L which should be more than plenty.
#804
bored **)
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Jun 2012
Location: Medford, Oregon
Posts: 307
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I've spent a few hours reading this thread. It's the best thing i've seen in a long time! There's no point in telling you to keep up the good work because i can see that you are.
You're going to have a wicked car in no-time. Good luck!
You're going to have a wicked car in no-time. Good luck!
#805
Wasted spark plug
Great idea!
Maybe painting the car and engine bay in silver, together with some blue/red parts (hoses, joints, brackets etc.) would give it a clean look also.
The car deserves it!
Grtz Dee.
Maybe painting the car and engine bay in silver, together with some blue/red parts (hoses, joints, brackets etc.) would give it a clean look also.
The car deserves it!
Grtz Dee.
#806
#807
you are absolutely worth it!!
Congrats!
#808
I did a bit of work on the car tonight, but didn't get a lot done. I worked some more on the fuel surge tank, looking at how to mount the bosch 044 pump as tidy as possible and tried a few locations for it but I couldn't find a way to mount the pump that I'm really happy with. The main problem is the exhaust, It's not really close or anything, but any fuel leaks will be very dangerous. So after a lot of fiddling I decided not to use the surge tank, instead it will be transformed into a coolant reservoir. Next to the coolant reservoir the catch can and windscreen wiper tanks will be fabricated. The surge tank will be moved to the other side of the engine bay where there aren't any hot parts, so fuel leaks are much less likely to cause a fire. I'll post some pictures when more progress has been made.
#811
Update
The tank I was building is done
Looks simple, but it was quite a bit of work to make. Here is a picture of the underside:
There are 3 compartiments, one for coolant fluid, one for windscreen wiper fluid and an oil catch can. The oil catch can has baffles in it to prevent sloshing gunk from getting to the breather filter. Every compartiment was pressure tested for leaks. Pretty happy with the way it turned out, some of the welds could've been a bit better, but they aren't visible when the tank is mounted, and there aren't any leaks or something, so I'm happy.
Also made this to keep the hood open, I ground away the tabs on the hood hinges to be able to open the hood further. It's now almost vertical when opened so getting to the rear of the engine bay is easier. Really works perfectly, I just got a random gas strut somebody was going to throw away for free, and it fits perfectly. Pushing force is perfect too
And started on the surge tank
The tank I was building is done
Looks simple, but it was quite a bit of work to make. Here is a picture of the underside:
There are 3 compartiments, one for coolant fluid, one for windscreen wiper fluid and an oil catch can. The oil catch can has baffles in it to prevent sloshing gunk from getting to the breather filter. Every compartiment was pressure tested for leaks. Pretty happy with the way it turned out, some of the welds could've been a bit better, but they aren't visible when the tank is mounted, and there aren't any leaks or something, so I'm happy.
Also made this to keep the hood open, I ground away the tabs on the hood hinges to be able to open the hood further. It's now almost vertical when opened so getting to the rear of the engine bay is easier. Really works perfectly, I just got a random gas strut somebody was going to throw away for free, and it fits perfectly. Pushing force is perfect too
And started on the surge tank
#816
Well, it holds about 2,5 litres now so I guess you can say it's a little chubby, but should be ok as long as the shape is right. Making the tank smaller wouldn't really make a lot more room for other things so I can't think of any upsides of making it smaller. I'm also not using a really big fuel pump in the stock location, so a little more volume gives me some peace of mind.
Tank is finished now, pressure tested ok
List of things to be fabricated underneath the hood is getting shorter and shorter , next up is a custom strut bar. Still doubting if I should go with a simple stainless steel one, or an aluminium one with added tubes that run to the firewall.
Tank is finished now, pressure tested ok
List of things to be fabricated underneath the hood is getting shorter and shorter , next up is a custom strut bar. Still doubting if I should go with a simple stainless steel one, or an aluminium one with added tubes that run to the firewall.
#817
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: paradise Florida
Posts: 946
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I vote for a triangulated aluminum tower brace, with nice corner rienforments that have lightening pockets also if you're making one, you'd enjoy the benefit of a master cylinder brace, I'm sure you know about the firewall flex on these cars.
Excellent project though, really. I want you to know how much I truely appreciate the amount of work that goes in to each and every component.. Not everybody really understands what it takes.
Anyways, can't wait to see more. Good luck!
Excellent project though, really. I want you to know how much I truely appreciate the amount of work that goes in to each and every component.. Not everybody really understands what it takes.
Anyways, can't wait to see more. Good luck!
#819
I vote for a triangulated aluminum tower brace, with nice corner rienforments that have lightening pockets also if you're making one, you'd enjoy the benefit of a master cylinder brace, I'm sure you know about the firewall flex on these cars.
Excellent project though, really. I want you to know how much I truely appreciate the amount of work that goes in to each and every component.. Not everybody really understands what it takes.
Anyways, can't wait to see more. Good luck!
Excellent project though, really. I want you to know how much I truely appreciate the amount of work that goes in to each and every component.. Not everybody really understands what it takes.
Anyways, can't wait to see more. Good luck!
I was leaning towards a nice aluminium one too, but went with stainless steel after looking at it some more today. There isn't a lot of clearance between the top of the air filter and the hood so I couldn't use a large diameter tube, and I had to make a bend into it to clear everything, so an aluminium one would've been too weak. I did add some tubes that run towards the firewall though Still need to weld everything, but this is pretty much how it's going to look like:
Good point about the master cylinder brace , I'll add it on the 'still to fabricate in the engine bay' list next to the tow hook that I forgot about and a fancy billet oil filter pedestal that I still haven't machined yet
I block off all the fitting points and apply regulated air pressure. Don't use too much pressure because it's very easy to blow a tank up like that which can be dangerous. I only use about 10 - 14 psi of pressure, and that's with relatively small tanks that are made from 2mm thick aluminium. When the tank is pressurised I use soapy water to find leaks, they show right up. I found that some tanks I made had a few small leaks that needed to be welded, so testing them is really necessary.
#823
Update
Did some more work in the engine bay, finished the strut bar, made the remote oil filter manifold, mounted that, made a master cylinder brace and made some towing hooks.
On the right is the manifold, 2 normal oil filters bolt up to it, I'm going to be using two because one would cause a large pressure drop. I could've gotten one large filter but I wanted to use normal ones that I can get at every autostore
On the left is a bracket to mount the manifold, which also acts as a master cylinder brace
Sits like this
Also made some towing hooks
So that wraps up most of the fabrication needed in the engine bay. Still a lot left to do though, I was planning on using the stock interior but I changed my mind. Going to remove the interior, build a 6-point rollcage and get some bucketseats in there.
#825
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
So that wraps up most of the fabrication needed in the engine bay. Still a lot left to do though, I was planning on using the stock interior but I changed my mind. Going to remove the interior, build a 6-point rollcage and get some bucketseats in there.
Everything is amazing. I just wanted to say it looks like you braced the brake master and I believe people usually brace the clutch master. Carry on.
people brace the brake master to reduce fire wall flex and improve BRAKE pedal feel, never heard of any one bracing the clutch master buddy
Last edited by nvmarx; 07-15-12 at 11:04 PM.