3-rotor 20B FC Drift Build
You spoke with me and I told you the same thing I tell everyone that asks that question, "The brackets allow installation on the stock mounts, worse case senario you need to shim the mounts". I never answer the question any differently. I would have also explained that we have used our 3mm endcaps from our poly mounts for exactly this purpose.
I also spent an hour with you on the phone answering all your Microtech questions.
I also spent an hour with you on the phone answering all your Microtech questions.
You spoke with me and I told you the same thing I tell everyone that asks that question, "The brackets allow installation on the stock mounts, worse case senario you need to shim the mounts". I never answer the question any differently. I would have also explained that we have used our 3mm endcaps from our poly mounts for exactly this purpose.
I also spent an hour with you on the phone answering all your Microtech questions.
I also spent an hour with you on the phone answering all your Microtech questions.
Things that are not mentioned on the website that you might be intersected in are;
- I originally had Tein Flex damper, but I’ve had it rebuilt by Tein with 8kg front and 7kg rear spring, with custom damper for those rates and drifting.
- I run -4 deg camber up front, and -1.5 deg camber in the back
- 0 toe front and back
I will be changing camber to -0.5 deg in the back for next year, and I might start to play with toe (mainly in the back), see how this will change the feel at higher speeds.
i had all kinds of clearance issues with the hood but its also because i have the pan speed drop vent. i sectioned an inch out of the manifold. then i relocated the alternator. and still have to trim a bit to clear the turbo.
Not sure if Banzai mentioned this, but you'll need to modify the braces on the underside of the hood to get it to clear correctly. To get an idea of how much, see my build thread here: https://www.rx7club.com/showpost.php...4&postcount=36
That's on a N/A hood and on my own custom engine mounts, not Banzai's. To find out exactly where the bracing is touching the UIM, try this simple and cheap idea:
Put a blob of cheap craft paint in various spots on the top of the engine, then closing the hood. It'll transfer to the bracing where it makes contact, telling you where to cut. The most notable areas that would contact the hood are the front two UIM runners & plenum, throttle body, Power Steering reservoir, P/S & A/C bracket, alternator (especially if you use a Taurus one) and the stock 20B Cosmo twin turbos' Y-pipe if you go that route
Grease also works, but craft paint is cheaper, comes in tons of colors for contrast and washes off with soap & water.
That's on a N/A hood and on my own custom engine mounts, not Banzai's. To find out exactly where the bracing is touching the UIM, try this simple and cheap idea:
Put a blob of cheap craft paint in various spots on the top of the engine, then closing the hood. It'll transfer to the bracing where it makes contact, telling you where to cut. The most notable areas that would contact the hood are the front two UIM runners & plenum, throttle body, Power Steering reservoir, P/S & A/C bracket, alternator (especially if you use a Taurus one) and the stock 20B Cosmo twin turbos' Y-pipe if you go that route
Grease also works, but craft paint is cheaper, comes in tons of colors for contrast and washes off with soap & water.
I'm doing pretty good with the hood clearing so far since I have an aftermarket CF hood.
Raising the hood in the back is out of the question, I've had the hood raised in the back and the car looks stupid, and I believe in a proper build (which mine really isn't) without affecting the aesthetics of the car lol
I will shim the mounts and see if it helps and go from there. First I need to decide where I'm going to do the single turbo setup for next season.
PS. Just to clarify... I already finished this swap last year and have already drifted at a few events this year... unfortunately I blew my diff at one practice, and blew a turbo at another one in August.
Here is a quick vid of me drifting this year with the 20B:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JySBdHVVV4w
Raising the hood in the back is out of the question, I've had the hood raised in the back and the car looks stupid, and I believe in a proper build (which mine really isn't) without affecting the aesthetics of the car lol
I will shim the mounts and see if it helps and go from there. First I need to decide where I'm going to do the single turbo setup for next season.
PS. Just to clarify... I already finished this swap last year and have already drifted at a few events this year... unfortunately I blew my diff at one practice, and blew a turbo at another one in August.
Here is a quick vid of me drifting this year with the 20B:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JySBdHVVV4w
I bought a "Foresight Style" roof spoiler. Found it on eBay, from China. Came damaged by EMS LOL. Still love it tho
I know Shine Auto here in the US makes a very similar roof spoiler for the FC, the same that JTP had on his.
I have completely removed the original sunroof and entire assembly and replaced it with just a carbon fiber panel and permanently sealed it.
Weight reduction + more head room + looks
Weight reduction + more head room + looks