Interesting. Whats the plan for deadening? The doors, trunk, and rear 1/4's are pretty easy, but pulling up the carpet or pulling out the dash is kindof a pain in the butt.

I usually hate those turn signals, but they don't look all bad there.

Same ol', Same ol'. Inner and Outer Door Skins with a seal for whenever he decides to get front speakers (so the door becomes a woofer enclosure, not infinite baffle), single layer on floor with a CCF/MLV layer on top, and leaving the headliner factory configuration. He's not an audiophile, so we're using some pretty basic stuff to tone down the car for commuting.

The main downside is the ARK Coilovers with 12kg/mm F&R spring rates and poorly matched monotube dampers. There's seemingly zero low speed compression, and rebound ends up growing exponentially with speed. Really sad to say, this might be one of the worst coilovers I've tested, and I've been setting up cars professionally for over 5yrs. :scratch: Getting comfort and compliance while being fast and maintaining driver input (feel) on this configuration is going to be a challenge, so I'll break open my notebook of past experiences and bust out some old school tricks. :scratch:

Being a huge car snob, this could work:

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9df8651cf3.png

Intercooler shipped out Friday. We'll see waazzzuppp soon enough! V-Mount, Baby!

The priority of airflow is Radiator > Intercooler > AC Condenser > Oil Coolers.

Yes, I now realize how much easier it would have been to "Z-Mount" my configuration like an FD, but now I think I'm sold on the idea of the hood vent lookin' really fuckin' cool.

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...bf9352fa64.png

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3366572194.png

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...15cca322af.png

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e8ab25547d.png

FibreMaz in Australia do a carbon fibretwin vented hood that utilises the factory bonnet hinges and latch.

See below:

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...542d1d5e82.jpg

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...806e4ec59f.jpg

Knowing you, you'll probably get something made up but thought I'd share as Alexis's work is pretty good. Check out the Fibremaz page on Facebook.

It needs to be along the surface of the intercooler to work properly. I'm actually going to show you what I planned, fuck it, why not. :hitit: :fawk: :egrin:

I intend to fully duct (both before and after individual portions of the V-Mount) with aluminum work. That's divided ducting before the radiator and after, before the intercooler, and after, etc. Trust me, my fabricator already sees the Dollar Signs in his eyes... That shit isn't easy. $_$ $_$

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4b36e29fc3.png

Because the body lines of the car are very squarish from a Top or Front View, the louvers must match that to retain appearances.

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...05c985db59.png

They are offering to build me a custom one with a front gurney flap integrated in. It should help

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...df3e60e5d7.png

Being that the intercooler is placed near the very front of the hood, the largest portion of lift (as shown on an FC here) will actually turn into a bit of downforce as air is drawn out of the engine bay. It'll effectively shrink my frontal area.

Another way I can reword this is that there is a very high pressure region at the front of the car (and front of the fender wells) and by placing a hood duct near the front, it'll draw that air through, lowering that pressure. This makes my heat exchangers work more efficiently.

Nice, I found something similar offered by these guys which I was thinking of using in the future: https://www.velox-motorsports.com

I knew you'd already a design firmly in mind. Looks great.

I'm doing the V-mount with the flat mounted I/C, with the shrouding etc. For a few race cars, my guy has made an adjustable diverter so that you can play with the relative airflow to the the rad and I/C - more important in my case since I won't use any hood vents.

Could you post pictures on here? That's REALLY interesting and I'd love to hear more about it.

Being that my intercooler is still being finished, I've debated time and again for hood clearance vs. angle of attack. I think that my design being flat vs. this design (end tanks aim upwards instead of rearwards) brings up a few more compromises in the engine bay.

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...804b8c0477.png

Skeese's Beautiful new V-Mount Configuration with EFR 9180.

I already intended on running a hood vent, and my proposed setup would sit about 4-5" higher up than this design, which works to my benefit. The FD, I believe, has a deeper engine bay. Taking up that hood clearance space for slight intercooler angle doesn't seem worth it for this build, and speaking of angle, my radiator should be more upright as a result. Don't forget about ground clearance! Higher than the front subframe is a definite design quality for harsh conditions.

I couldn't find any pictures of the other cars, sorry. You might have to wait until mine is done, but by then, I'm sure you will have already completed your intercooler arrangement. What I have in mind is basically a sheet of aluminium sitting between the intercooler and radiator and would have adjustment slots allowing it to pivot up or down, as illustrated by the below super quick MS Paint sketch....

https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1489988926

good idea...i remember seeing herblenny's builder doing the same thing.

I mean, how else would you do it? That's exactly what we have here too. Lol. My design is a much flatter intercooler though with the radiator more upright. Radiator gets less from the diverter since it has a huge 16" SPAL behind it, and diverter is curved with "soft edges" as I call them in Aerodynamics.

I can draw up a few quick sketches later and post pics.

Here's what we'd combine the concepts of (with a quick internet search):

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...de0cca91eb.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1c359b7016.png


Cool to see us on the same page here!

Bell Intercoolers Knows What's Up...

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...75329684be.png

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ce1ec46e58.png

https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f1febb1fa0.png

SN0BX-7

So I have to apologize for not really getting on here as much as I used to. The Integra is going into the shop to finalize some pretty cool things on Tuesday, then it's a few more mods, and off to the dyno with the H23A VTEC.

The turbo mockup will happen on Tuesday. I'll take final dimensions and decide whether or not to go Full-Race Manifold + EFR 0.92 IWG or my intended manifold/downpipe design.

Well, in other news, my credit card company refunded me for the bullshit excuse of a laptop that I've been using for the last year. Two hard drive failures, boot loops, screen issues, touchpad not working, etc. XoticPC didn't cover their bases... Sending it out for repairs and it coming back WORSE was my final straw. SO, I decided to take the professional route and build a desktop for an Engineering Work Station using the new AMD Ryzen 7 architecture.

Check out this build:


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...278951d51c.png

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...4654e373ab.jpg

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...df976f60e4.jpg


My buddy sold me his Dual Nvidia GTX980 (SLI Bridged) setup with EK, Full Faced Water Blocks on them for a stupid low price, so all said and done, I'm in it for the price of the laptop refund, exactly.

Now for school, I'll just shell out $400 for a half-decent ultrabook sized Windows 10 rig to purely get me all my Google Docs and web-browsing, then back up as necessary (I've lost so much information on this stupid laptop that I'm returning...it's time I'll never get back)

Done and Done. Time to step up my professional business.

Not bad. Might've gone with more hard drive, but what with the cloud and network storage who needs it?
I built a little low wattage rig that goes the distance for me(not much of a gamer :( ).

I thought you might be a cat person...

Not quite. Close though. I prefer mine hairless.

Well, I have a Hitachi 1TB 3.5", WD Black 1TB 3.5", and a WD Green 2TB 3.5" that I'll be putting in that case, hidden away.

Everything came today and I can't believe how good the keyboard and mouse are. Very impressed with my purchase so far. :egrin:

Can't leave without posting the Rx7 update today...hehehe


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...852cd25854.jpg

I see what u did there...lol

Damn, that intercooler is HUGE! Should cool nicely. What radiator are you using?

It's a Griffin 24" x 16" x 3" core with a 16" SPAL 45A high torque fan.

Check out Page 1

The ASRock came DOA. The Asus Prime x370 Pro is coming tomorrow with system assembly and final water cooling bleeding to be done that evening.

The Prime x370 Pro comes with the 0404 BIOS aka Not Compatible With Ryzen. I picked up a local ASUS Crosshair VI Hero and it has an offline BIOS updater built into the back of the Mobo... Let's just say the system works now. EKWB Backplate issues likely caused the ASRock and Prime to not work properly, but with all the diagnostic materials on the Crosshair VI, it was easy to figure out.

Specs:
Ryzen 1700x Overclocked to 3.914 Ghz (8 Cores, 16 Threads)
G.Skill DDR4 RAM Overclocked to 2574 Mhz (32 GB)
GTX980 SLI Overclocked to +239 Mhz Clock Speed, +583 Mhz Memory Speed


Now, the important stuff.

The Rx7 is going to get a Davies Craig EWP150 Kit. :lol: Fuck it, don't care, better Intercooler fitment and faster warmup. :lol: I already have a radiator that's 2.5x factory capacity and am sick and tired of replacing busted thermostats on ALL of my vehicles (OEM thermostats fail on everything...). This knocks out both issues. I won't run too cold, and I won't have a failed thermostat. :blush:

David (aka MonsterBox) and I have been talking recently and he likes the direction I'm heading with this. :egrin: I take that as a compliment of the highest regard.

Abel (Ibarra) is getting my last small bearing GSL 3rd Member. I need to bug him on shipment date soon.

So what's next? Pulling the engine bay harness far enough away to allow for cutting/welding for the V-Mount. Ordering the EWP150 setup this week, installing, finalizing the rear end and starting the V-Mount by the end of the month.

As far as big parts left to buy, the Adaptronic M6000 is definitely next after the fabrication phase. I wonder if Tony (FFR Fabrication) will let me store the car there while I wire everything up.

Keen to see the EWP setup. I'm thinking of using the same for my build aye. Using their EWP controller also which will also double as a fan controller. Just tryna figure out routing haha.

Electric Waterpump Adaptor - Franklin Engineering Ltd. have a nice adapter and bits at a good price too :D

I would definitely go that route if I wanted -16AN coolant lines and didn't have a hefty 270A alternator to top mount (because this car will retain AC and PS, and I'm likely adding hydroassist brakes off the PS).

The one thing with my steering setup is I planned to modulate steering assistance with speed, so the hydro-assist brakes might suffer in that regard (so a reason NOT to do it).

I'm going to take the water pump off tomorrow and mock everything up in CAD, send it out to machining with an engraved SN0BX7 or RGHTBrainDesign logo and hopefully get it together next week.

I have played with the EWPs since they were released in the early 2000s (Davies Craig is headquartered in Melbourne, where I live). Through much experimentation, I would definitely recommend retaining a bypass thermostat setup in combination with the Davies Craig controller.

Without it, warm up times are too long and with a decent radiator and v-mount setup, the engine will actually run too cold at higher road speeds (even with the EWP flow turned right down).

The 2 ways to achieve the bypass thermostat setup are to:

1) modify the factory thermostat housing but drilling and tapping a fitting to feed from the factory bypass channel inside the thermostat housing and running a hose from the that fitting to the heater return (into the bottom radiator hose). The bypass channel then needs to be blocked internally where it recess where the factory water pump impeller sits (but left open on the thermostat end). You then just run a factory thermostat with the bypass in place.


2) run a remote inline thermostat with bypass off the bottom radiator hose. I have identified OEM factory options suitable for this task from Rover, Lotus, Fiat and BMW.

There's some detailed info on this here: AusRotary.com ? View topic - ewp electric controller (go to the end of the thread for up to date info and diagrams)

Awesome! Thank you!

That is, to date, the most informative post on this entire thread. Greatly appreciated KYPREO! :nod:

No problem at all and glad it was so helpful for you.

There is a ton of good info in this thread I made in the 3rd gen section too (a lot of it by KYPREO as well :) )

https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...-flow-1110563/

After some further observations, I decided that while keeping the top mounted 270A alternator and power steering pump, I'll stick with the factory water pump configuration and 929 Brake Master conversion (since a hydroassist brake and a varying steering assist would wreak havoc on my driving experience).

Don't worry, it's not all bad news. I pulled, labeled, and tucked the wiring harness and power steering cooler out of the way to prep for the V-Mount today:

PIC1

PIC2

PIC3

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"Sounds pretty badass. Keep doing what you're doing man. Once you get a product out and it running and dominating, that's when it gets attention. Do it for you. Do it for fun. At the end of the day it's all about enjoyment. Sounds like what you're doing is pretty fucking crazy and you should be proud."

Thank you Sir. I needed that. Back to the hustle!

Working alongside Skeese for proper cutting edge bullshit kinda has me on the fence about the ECU selection. One thing I've learned is to leave all electronics to the LAST possible minute. They will get better and CHEAPER as time progresses... Ballin' on a Budget.

Most of this will come from Chris @ LMS-EFI:

• Haltech Elite 2500 ECU
• Haltech TCA2 Thermocouple Box w/ CAN Cable
• IGN1-A Coils
• Ballenger Motorsports AFR500v2 w/ NTK Calibration Grade Sensor

None of it matters until the Fabrication is done.

Haltech will be fine, quality ECUs should stay relevant as the manufacturer updates the software. Look at the Motec M800, been around for at least 15 years and its still great.

I have been dead-set on the Adaptronic M6000 due to it's massive feature list and easy to use software, however, the forums tell the story pretty well on here. I'll hold my tongue to the specifics, but the QUALITY of the posts are obviously better on other ECU forums.

I'll still be able to add a Yaw/G-Sensor and calibrate some sort of traction control/boost-by-gear on the Haltech Elite 2500, as well as the Direct Fire Ignition and 3-Stage Injection. If you guys haven't seen it yet, I already figured out the VEC and large fuses planned out. All circuit breakers/relays throughout the whole car....none of this fusible link bullshit.

I have a ton of parts out getting machined right now, so hopefully right after finals I can update you guys with GOOD NEWS. For the time being, I'll ride it all out and drop off a few parts to fabrication as they trickle in.

I found the same thing when I moved to the haltech. While the majority of the posts in the adaptronic section are most commonly people fighting basic startup issues or trying to figure out how to turn on a 2 step and antilag on a tune that barely runs, those in the haltech forum are having intelligent conversations about advanced tuning methods and practices.

The other is Mickey Mouse in comparison, which I can say as I've played Adaptronic forum tuning tech support for the last 2 years.

Skeese

Ryan, the subaru master and booster are cheaper and just as good / better than the 929 thing.

Also, you can de-variable the p/s.

The whole point of a good power steering system is that it doesn't take away from the feel of the car when you want to drive properly, but when it comes to parallel driving or giving it to your mom to drive to the store, it doesn't kill her with difficulty either.

I try to avoid Subaru parts at all costs... Their inferior metals and recycled parts bin are a no-go for me.

CLearly, your going to need to drive my car at some point.

clearly i'll need to drive my car at some point too. ha

Clearly this build log needs updates.

What do you guys REALLY want to know? The turbos are coming along nicely. No pictures to show for it yet, but good reports at machining.

What do YOU want to see?

30 PSI, I want to see 30 PSI.

Skeese

I'll go over to the shop and show you 150psi... :lol::lol:

Fuck it, we're going to run this mystery motor hard on e85... Probably 20psi all day erryday, 30psi for the "Fuck You, I wanna Go Fast!" mode, in which a ticket is immanent.

or AAA roadside assistance.

As much as I want to run more power, the weak link on the turbo setup will be the cast steel turbine housing. I remember hearing of cracking at 15psi after 120k miles, so I think with the ceramic coating on the inside and out, I could do 20psi for 30k miles or 25psi for 15k miles and get away with it. :egrin:

#DangerToManifold #OhhhMeBoostah

What turbo are you running now? I thought you were going with an efr 9180 or something?

EFR9174 with 1.00 A/R IWG.

Whats all this nonsense about steel turbine housings failing at 15psi then?

It's a custom turbine housing. Notice how Borg Warner or anyone else for that matter doesn't make a 1.00 A/R IWG setup? :) :egrin::egrin:

Ok i must have missed that. Sorry for posting.

No no no, I appreciate your postings a lot. Don't be sorry for anything!

If I'm sorry for something, it's that I can't edit those pictures down on this thread to fit a proper 1000px wide forum screen. Ugh, they're supposed to auto-size, and when they only give you a finite time to edit your own post, it makes life a chore. I might just delete the whole post...in fact, I bet if I quote it, I can just post it as new and properly sized. Hahaha #ForumIssues

How's your car been?

After some further observations, I decided that while keeping the top mounted 270A alternator and power steering pump, I'll stick with the factory water pump configuration and 929 Brake Master conversion (since a hydroassist brake and a varying steering assist would wreak havoc on my driving experience).

Don't worry, it's not all bad news. I pulled, labeled, and tucked the wiring harness and power steering cooler out of the way to prep for the V-Mount today:


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...cd41fdae52.png

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e1230c8f8b.png

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...500cd81887.png

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...9cf76012c3.png

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e60d82dd2e.png