gotta love new parts. too bad I probably can't afford your "old" setup.

If you wanted to PM me, we could discuss it. I'm letting it go at a huge loss (50% of what I paid, not including my engineering time) with directions on how to properly complete the setup.

• Transmission Selection: Tremec T56 Magnum 6060 w/ 2.66 1st, 0.63 6th Gear Ratios
• Clutch: (Same) Ogura Racing ORC 559D
• Ogura Racing ORC Center Hub Cam for T56 Spline Input Shaft

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a19b3c7d9c.jpg

Just made this pic for a Facebook thread, but replace CD009 w/ T56 Spline and it's golden...

• Starter: (OEM) Turbo II
• Bola De Homo Racing 13BT to T56 Adapter Plate

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...dc6ed015a2.jpg

Works with Manual Rear Iron. I'm in!

• Sikky 4" Shifter Relocation Kit
• 3.25" CF Driveshaft Shop Shaft
• Minor Tunnel Clearancing
• 225/45-17 Front w/ Caster Reduction to fit a 25" tall tire
• 255/40-17 or 255/45-17 Rear to properly fill out factory fender
• All The Boost...

Why T56 as opposed to 13BT tranny? Clutch setup looks dope.

Power Handling. It's not a T56, it's the TR6060 which can shift over 6k reliably (the standard T56 cannot). Proven over 9-10k shifts without notchiness.

Simply put, I'll shred the Turbo II transmission at these proposed power levels. This has been my weak link all along and I haven't found a PROPER solution until today, which I'm stoked on. This allows me to use everything Turbo II except for the transmission body, which is perfect. I'll have two nice Turbo II S4 transmissions for sale if anyone wants one. Reasonably priced + buyer pays shipping.

Whats your HP/TQ goal?

With the new setup, I'll aim for 650whp/500wtq. I'll purely run wastegate pressure on the Turbo II transmission and backyard built driveshaft until I get money to do it right with the Tremec Magnum (TR6060) and 3.25" CF Driveshaft.

Acquiring the necessary parts for a backup motor built to kick some serious ass...

It's still 13BT.

It's going to be able to handle my goals without a doubt.

I still haven't had any luck getting my car into fabrication (and it's pre-paid). :( The season is busy, gotta roll with it.

patience is a virtue, right? I have to keep saying that to myself...lol. any new updates?

Yep. Some things, like this build, are too slow.

My weekend job is ending and all of my "spare" money is going to disappear. There's roughly 15k in fabrication and parts to get the car back on the road + 100s of hours of my personal labor doing all the plumbing, wiring, sound insulation, heat insulation, etc with just keeping a FACTORY sound system.

So I'm selling off everything spare I've accumulated in a firesale, hopefully to get enough for the Tremec T56 Magnum, adapter plate, and custom broaching (machining) on the Ogura Clutch center hub to fit the Tremec Input Shaft.

As for me, I'm hustling my butt off and applying to new jobs every day.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...70f1154958.jpg

Instead of broaching, we'll do Wire EDM for the Center Hub cutting. Probably a $500 venture, but gotta pay to play.

I really want to do an Obsidian Labs S5 LIM to S6 UIM Adapter so I gain the S6 Secondary Throttle Plates and can control them like a Honda IAB setup.

This works by having the secondaries closed until a certain RPM/Load range in which plenum volume is decreased, intake velocity is increased, and TORQUE/RESPONSE are improved dramatically. Essentially, this is what made VTEC so fuckin' loud on Hondas in factory trim. It's the last piece of the puzzle to really get a responsive motor package on a relatively large turbo.

No mo' DBW?

Same DBW, but a solenoid to control the FD UIM secondary throttle blades. Having them shut under low loads and under a certain RPM point will greatly increase idle vacuum and response of the configuration.

While I'm at it, I can send the whole setup off to SBS Performance for plenum modifications and hand porting throughout. *Maybe*

Still waiting on Obsidian Labs to get back to me. It doesn't work without them.

​​​​​Just like my transmission doesn't work without getting proper input shaft spline dimensions off the T56 Magnum.

nice build! :)

Thanks Mark!

This is what my setup will look like soon:

https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0a9f7c6660.jpg
https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1a51344ce2.jpg

Car is still next in line for fabrication on the exhaust manifold.

Picking up the pace here, I've tracked down Shawn of Obsidian Labs for the S5 LIM to S6 UIM adapter, ordered up an S6 (FD) UIM with all it's original solenoids/vacuum pots, and am parting out a bit of my extra garage stuff to help others get back on the roads.

If anyone is hunting down engine parts, let me know and I'll see what I have. Even selling a spare S5 Turbo II block that's streetported with 0mi on it.

It's not like my setup has been lacking in the intake manifold department, but I think for simplicity of the engine bay and tuning (if 3rd stage injection still isn't added over in the next firmware update), I might be better off going with the following configuration:

FC LIM from Elite Rotary w/ 4 Injector Fuel Rail which should directly bolt to FD UIM
Call Paul Yaw on replacing the 2x ID1700x 34-14 Injectors in the Pico Bungs to 2x ID1700x 48-14 Injectors for the Elite Rail
FD UIM w/ Double Throttle Plate Controlled Via Solenoid on RPM/Load
GM LS3 DBW TB

Uhh, finalize fabrication? :)

I assume the case needs a bit of trimming to fit the TII starter? Does the input shaft suit an RX-7 pilot bearing?

I must say it isn't the prettiest looking setup, but I've heard a lot of people trash the common aftermarket bell housings. It definitely looks headache free and that is the most important part! I just rebuilt and upgraded a TII trans but I'm not sure I want to waste my time with another one, looking for numbers in the same neighborhood...

Keep up the good work!

I'm sure I could find it on the googlenets but I'm lazy so I figured I'd ask here:

What's the weight of that trans config? Base wiring for the FD will be done soon so its on to drivetrain next and even though I've got a rebuilt FD trans I might decide to get snazzy with a 6 speed.

I think it's something like 65lbs more. The T2 Transmission is 80lbs Dry without shifter. I believe this is 135lbs + T2 Bellhousing, so probably in the neighborhood of 145lbs.

I believe zero modification besides of course the transmission mount and my unique clutch wire edm/broaching issue. How much do you stare at your transmission? I don't think it needs to be attractive, although I don't see it as ugly. I see it as badass and functional.

Sweet tits, so only about 40ish lbs heavier than the FD trans. Danke.

Exactly, and it's centered at the lowest point of the car. Totally not worried about the weight there. It's actually cheaper than building a beefy T2 box, yet has triple synchros, silent operation, and a new warranty. Oh, and the gearing is PERFECT.

And doesn't shift like a truck like the FC box does! Nice updates.

Yeah i wouldnt mind putting another 65lb right there either. Bit jealous of that gearbox..

Obsidian Labs seriously dropped the ball here. It's been over a month of trying to contact their Facebook page, phone, emails, and the owner directly. No luck.

Thankfully I settled on this. Franklin Engineering in New Zealand. They even make a Short Oil Filler which is EXACTLY what I needed. $30 USD for that little guy saved me a good $200 in fabrication time + parts. Cheers to New Zealand on this one!

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...1fd17f2387.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...19cebd106b.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7137fb3961.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a85e9246a1.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5cd7a4d7a3.jpg


I'm really not looking forward to broaching or Wire EDM'ing this clutch piece.

Wire EDM Quote for Clutch Center Hub to Knock it out from 1" 23/25 Spline to 1.125" 26 Spline = $550
Adapter Plate from T2 to Magnum = $550.
Shifter Kit to Properly Locate the Transmission = $500.
T56 Magnum Transmission = $3195.

Powershifting the bitch at full boost knowing it's not going explode on you... = Priceless.

Somehow I'm getting an Obsidian Labs S5 to S6 Adapter Plate setup now too. Magical. Well, S6 UIM should be here soon and I'm on my way to getting the last of my stuff done before fabrication even starts.

I could be ballsy and just order the rest of the transmission stuff. Gotta wait on my broaching guy in LA.

I'll probably start a new thread for this subject some day but I was curious if anybody has implemented stepper motor wastegate actuation without hacky workarounds. I've come up with a few and have a mahle on the bench, this unit acts like any other stepper motor. Any thoughts?

Thanks Franklin Engineering plate looks good. I like the O-ring setup. Too bad it is too suit S4 LIM though.

I have looked at many of the different adapter plates over the years. The Reaction Racing one from Japan was still the best engineered product. I sold mine a while ago because I think any adapter plate just looks too ghetto and obvious for me. Instead, I'm cutting the flange off a 13B-REW LIM and welding it directly onto the s5 LIM, then port matching and smoothing out the transition with a die grinder.

Yeah, look familiar to my "old" (now for sale) build? Buy it from me!

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0a4717f701.jpg
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7fd13424cd.jpg
https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ac5a9edccc.jpg
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...86fcbf3f86.jpg
https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...fdda002e3b.jpg


This is what Phase 3 had in store.

The Franklin Engineering adapter looks great, but this Obsidian Labs one is on another level.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d410249892.png
https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8b6c38094a.png
https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3706f43860.png
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...bd0b1d2d28.png

Word, I'm not particularly worried about the hardware involved but more curious about control strategies between different ECUs etc. and potentials for use. I also have always hated stacking system on top of systems that somewhat work together but there always seems to be something just beyond cobbled together system integrations. Also swapping between vendors/software when I'm building a car makes my balls ache. This is one of the reasons why I keep going back to an m150 dev as my ECU of choice but $6600 isn't that cheap.

Man, you sound bummed. I thought I nailed it on the head with the Electronically Controlled Stepper Motor IWG YouTube video and my old build (which was going to convert to that). Your ECU has limitless potential and I'm sure we could figure out some programming logic to get it to do exactly what you want. The drawback of the stepper motor is going to be optimizing gearing between holding a ton of boost (large gear reduction for excellent torque against the wastegate flapper) and speed (opening as quickly as possible to vent off excess pressure).

Here's my train of thought. Let's say you have a stepper motor with 150 Steps from Fully Closed to Fully Open. Ideally you'll want to have a cam on this configuration in which your linear steps on the motor translate to a progressive output on the wastegate flapper actuation. So maybe something like the first 100 Steps open up 1/3rd of the wastegate from Fully Closed to 1/3rd Open. The next 50 Steps open up the remaining 2/3rds of the wastegate from 1/3rd Open to Fully Open. This gives you a MUCH better boost control than simply having a linear cam. Of course, you could do a different control strategy, but the concept holds true.

Maybe I'm not getting what you're looking for in a logic control system, but you should have no issue adapting a stepper motor (with heatshielding) as a wastegate controller. Another plan of attack would be a Stepper Motor Linear Actuator in which you run it like a standard wastegate arm with the motor located on it. Here's a perfect example of that: Stepper Motor Linear Actuator.

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c1ab741fd9.png

Anyways, I'm glad to work something out with you. That's the whole point of a forum.

I spent the whole day working out stuff for a customer's Camaro SS on HPTuners (weird development type shit I've been experimenting with), my daily driver Integra on Hondata S300v3, and trying to finalize the start-up map for the Emtron KV8 ECU, which I am definitely closing in on.

Looking forward to more updates on the transmission swap. Have you tried asking your clutch manufacturer to just make you a clutch disk with the right spline on it?

Did you finally get a hold of obsidian labs? or did you just find one for sale elsewhere?

Word, not bummed just making conversation. With regards to hardware I've got a bit of a boner over OEM reliability (when applicable) and fit and finish so I'm waiting on a friend of mine to punt over an actuator from a 3 series. they do some odd low/high boost control so I hope it has the resolution I'd like.

Shawn of Obsidian Labs contacted me just as my order in New Zealand was being shipped out. An international call moments later and I was able to cancel their (frankly perfect - I would recommend Franklin Eng to ANYONE!) adapter setup, but kept the rest of my order.

So here's my clutch. The Center Hub needs machined from 1" 23/25 Spline to 1.125" 26 Spline:

https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3f4da8c40c.jpg

Note how the discs themselves don't change. It's the center hub that needs either Wire EDM or Broaching to have the inside spline changed.

:worship:

The engineering that's gone into this build is beyond my comprehension. I just check in from time to time, read the updates, and then realize my head is beginning to hurt almost like I'm back in school struggling to understand a subject that is just not sinking in.... This is one of the more unique builds I've ever seen.

For the money you're looking to get your current disc modified you might want to look in to Tilton making you a custom disc. They've done it for our 4 rotor build and hand delivered the units. Seeing as you have the exact dimensions to give them/can actually just send them the part it might make more sense since then you have a part number that you might be able to reference from a vendor rather than re customize another part when/if you need a new disc.

I think you're confused here. When I need a new clutch disc, the ORC559D discs are still going to fit perfectly. The outer spline isn't changing. All I'm doing is knocking out the inner spline to the Tremec T56 Magnum input shaft size of 1.125" 26 Spline.

Realistically, the only reason I'm going with this clutch is because ORC was the only company to do a Twin Disc that's DAMPED and that's what will help it's drivability as a street driven car.

Cool. I was merely observing that at 500 for the disc modification you might be able to have one made for the same cost and have an easy replacement in the future without having to buy the same disc then have it modified again. I'm pretty sure tilton will build damped discs as well.

Not trying to be a total tilton fanboy either it's just that theyre not far, south of you in beullton. Looks killer as usual.

There is ZERO disc modification. It's the center hub of the dual clutch assembly that gets modified. Look at the picture. That piece is FLOATING and is entirely independent. I just got another quote for $350, which is MUCH closer to what I originally had in mind. I'm not trying to re-invent the wheel, it's simply taking a center hub and opening up the inner spline. It's easy.

Ah. My mistake.

You'd think after getting frustrated trying to explain it (with pictures, mind you) to broaching/wire EDM shops, and clutch/transmission suppliers for the last two months, I would have figured out a nicer way of putting it. Hahaha. Nope, sorry. It's a involute spline center HUB that slides freely on the clutch assembly. Clutch discs and plates are independent of it and will remain fully ORC replaceable due to the outer spline shape not changing at all. Simply, the clutches don't have the input shaft spline at all, a removable center hub does. I showed this to a few different clutch manufacturers (the people who make the parts for McLeod, Exedy, SPEC, etc, and they were like, "Oh wow, I've never seen it done that way! Those quirky little Japanese out at Ogura!"

Obsidian Labs Adapter comes in on Tuesday. I'm going to see about placing my Throttle Mass Flow MAP sensor into the blockoff plate of the first (closest to TB) idle air control valve spot. Should be easy and accessible. Even hides the sensor/wires nicely and doesn't interfere with the fuel system. I even found another Honda IAB Solenoid Vacuum Reservoir and went through the Emtron ECU file to figure everything out. This intake is going to be badass.

S'all good. No harm no foul. I've just never seen such a thing so I was confused, and I've played with a bunch of odd ball single/multi plate clutch assemblies from various race vehicles we've torn down and rebuilt. Just didn't click.

are we there yet?

No, but the parking brake is off. :lol:

Awesome build and Engineering.

How will your tune account for the secondary intake ports? I assume that you will set your ECU up to trigger them, but is there something else that must be done?

It will be seen by the MAP but not the TPS?