Hey man,

Finally made it over to your thread since you prompted me to, and it looks awesome! I'm prepping for a fuel system overhaul as well and was wondering what hose that is you are running and what hose ends? I saw the flex fuel sensor so you are obviously going to be hitting the E85 fuel too.

-Skeese

I'm most likely picking up the T1RaceDevelopment -8AN (IN/OUT) and -6AN (RETURN) Premium Hose (Black Nylon/PTFE lined) once Paul sends me their fuel pump and injectors. Because BLAAAACK.

The rest of my system is Earl's Ano Tuff fittings or Fragola. You really can't go wrong with AN stuff.

There's a lot of good news...and some bad.


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5505a45095.jpg


My e85 Safe Internal Surge Tank with Walbro 416 is complete and will be shipping to me tomorrow.<br/><br/>Swirl Pot/Surge Tank with ~0.7L capacity means I can sustain my 1.3g cornering in boost without ANY starvation. :D


https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...0a19edaa37.jpg


Took a road trip with a buddy to Mosquito Ridge Road.


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...002d7a790f.jpg


Amazing Views.


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d2e5fabe28.jpg


Frame rails almost complete.


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b22c7e8c7f.jpg


https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a9b1685a6b.jpg


Transmission Mount and Crossbrace


https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...95fe0eedee.jpg


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...762167b0f2.jpg

Then I went on to kidnap a girl on the other side of the state, drive her around, go camping, get a cabin on the beach, continue hunting down the best driving roads in the world with a ride or die bi**h, and finally return home to a clear head.

Life is grand. Don't hold back.


/Ohhh Yea. The bad news. Parts of the dash and carpet are damaged on an otherwise pristine interior. #ChetHappenz

Great job on the frame rails,looks awesome :icon_tup:

Thank you Sir. Did you still want that turnover valve or whatever? PM me an offer, shipped price, and I'll send it out this week.

Hopefully by the end of today I can write up a tuning logic and list out my inputs/outputs for the M6000 ECU on here...

It's a big task.

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...dda4c0a6d6.png


Wastegate DC vs. Ethanol Content Basemap. :D

I never want to hear from someone how they thought I was lazy and whimsical. Nope. Here's some hard work that I've put together for MY engine.

ID1300s Primaries, ID1700s Secondaries, Walbro 416 Lift Pump, ID Fuel Pump, Water Separation/Fuel Filter down to 3 Micron that flows 300GPH, Dual Pressure Dampers on Fuel Rails, All e85 Compatible Fuel Components.

Series 5 13bt with T04B Compressor Housing and P-Trim wheel Turbo. Estimated 260whp @ wastegate pressure (10psi) for pump gas and 320-350whp @ ~18psi on e85.

Highway Fuel Economy Target: 25mpg (91 Octane), 15mpg (e85)
City/Mountain Fuel Economy Target: 14mpg (91 Octane), 10mpg (e85)



https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ecd4897b76.png


My Direct Fire Dwell Map


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...5d298e4bac.png


My 2-Stroke OMP Position Map


https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...d1e8e9844d.png


My Spark Timing Split Map

I found that I get alot smoother idle if I run a 20 split in the 1000 RPM 0 and 25% cells. It helps to stabilize my idle and allowed me to bring it down lower without it hunting.

https://www.rx7club.com/power-fc-for...t-idle-770922/

-Skeese

cool progress, I'm digging the frame rails and am anxious to see how the toyata rear end works out

It may be beneficial, so I'll experiment for sure. This is a S5 13BT block though, so different geometry and "base timing" than your motor. Should be similar results regardless.

I am using an IAC for this motor, because it's California and I plan to travel everywhere...

Skeese, we're going to have some insane basemap setup for these cars once all is said and done with our builds. :egrin:

Seth, I'll try a -10 @ 0% and -5 @ 25% for the 1000 RPM column, and a -8 @ 0% and -3 @ 25% for the 3000 RPM column, and go from there.

You should DEFINITELY be dipping into your 3k column for cruising (even though my build will land me at 4k RPM @ 80mph... Negative split will reduce AFR due to how the combustion is occurring, so experiment with fueling right after to stay on a safe target. I'm sure we could go a LOT more aggressive with negative split at light loads.

If you're at +20, I bet your idle has to be VERY rich to be smooth. :lol:

I'll call Abel (Ibarra) about it tomorrow and see what kind of experimenting he's done. There are VERY FEW tuners that I trust, and out of those, maybe 2 or 3 are capable of achieving reliable efficiency, not just reliability. That's why we do this though, right? Experiment, learn, and throw money away...


https://www.rx7club.com/rotary-car-p...-443709/page4/

Lean burn with negative split timing - RX8Club.com

#1: https://www.rx7club.com/megasquirt-f...r-tune-892195/

What did you do for replacing the underbody frame rails? Did you just box the exiting ones with stronger metal?

I am planning something very similar with my S5 Restomod.

I was thinking of having some 3/16" steel bent to cap and flange over the existing ones.

Please tell me the connector shown at the top of the pump assembly isn't for the pumps. Those terminals are only rated for 7.5 amps.

There is only a single Walbro 416 e85 Lift Pump (0 psi) in that internal surge/swirl tank, drawing a maximum of 14.45A @ 13.5v and running 14awg wiring (rated for 18A).

An identical setup with a Bosch 044 has been fine for YEARS. I have 100% faith in Winfield's design here.

DTM = 7.5A Continuous (Doesn't fit 14awg)
DT = 13A Continuous
DTP = 25A Continuous

I'm pretty sure he used either a DT or DTP, but even if it's a DTM, I'm not too worried.

Thank you for the observation though, I'll check it out. :D

My custom e85 Internal Surge Tank/Swirl Pot/Lift Pump setup, courtesy of Coachman Performance. (Elwood on this forum)

Order yours today @ Home Page and be sure to say I sent you (Ryan Heinrich).

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8fca93558c.jpg


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...a2f71409af.jpg


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...db9b674f96.jpg

Any info?

Yea, we took 0.083" wall 2.5" square tube and cut it down to match the contours of the factory frame rails. Boxed, Drilled, Holes Welded, and Stitched. Should add a bit of torsional rigidity. :D

Not planning on running swaybars on this car at all, so I chose slightly higher spring rates, a stiffer chassis, and two-way rear coilovers. Fronts are Ksports with 400lb springs.

Did you remove the factory ones? Or did you just slip this over them?

Looks to me like you removed the factory ones. Am I right?

Definitely just boxed over the factory rails. The point was economical torsional rigidity with only minor weight added, and we accomplished that goal.

This car when new vs. an Rx8 is about 1/3rd the torsional rigidity. I'm trying to close that gap. Triangulation, better front and rear end setups, and this together should help a lot.

Are you not concerned that it builds a moisture gap between the old and new pieces of metal?
That is why I was asking, that was my concern. I plan to keep this car as long as there is fuel available for her, and I am alive...

I am considering removing the old ones, templating them and then cutting them out, having them bent, and welding the new ones back up, I plan to integrate x-box jacking points on them as well.

Nope, not at all.

Great work going on with your car! I like it all! 👍I really like what you did with the framerails. Mine are all bashed up and I want to do something to strengthen and cover them. Yours look great!

:blush: Thank you! Thank you! Thank you! :blush:

Originally, because of the condition, I was going to use the car for gran touring and show, but now with all of the extra projects and such that I've added, it's converting more to a weekend warrior in the canyons and LONG distance cruising with flex fuel.

The more I look at this T04B Compressor/P-Trim Turbine S5 hybrid setup, the more excited I get. 300whp @ 15psi on pump gas seems to be the norm, without any of the extra effort that I've put into my setup (amazing intercooler, port matching, streetported motor, etc). I think it's a 54 Trim, which falls between an H-Trim and V-Trim on FC3s's site. Streetport on the motor could be anywhere from 35-45lbs/min of air, and maximum boost on e85 for this turbo setup should be in the 25psi range where either map is still VERY efficient (70%!!!). This could still land me my 400whp goal on e85...and I didn't think that would be the case any longer.

This week, I dropped off the IST to my buddy's fab shop to have him weld the 304ss 1/2" plate to my very very thin OEM steel gas tank. It should be complete by the weekend and dropped off to the radiator shop for final prep, paint, and sealing (Red Kote).

The Toyota 8" axle is being assembled right now with the Weir Performance Clutch Pack adjustments added and 4.56 Rear end ratio. Turbo II brakes in the rear and 300M (4340) axles turned down and restudded to 5x114.3 (from 6 lug Yota) to make everything work. Yea Yea...my gearing is pretty odd (I should have gone LONGER since it's boosted), but it's easy to change if I decide traction in 4th gear is an issue.:egrin:

Coilover Spacers are a WIP, but the idea is solid. Love the Varishock Ball Joint Uppers in the OEM shock location.

I'm having a meeting for the 4-Link geometry later this week so we can dial everything in and turn measurements from ride height into angles and locations. Slowly but surely, we'll get this Lotus Link together....
:egrin:

"It's major virtues are extreme comfort and an engine that is very smooth and strong." Yup, it's a Gran Tourer after all!

https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...fff8d42c07.jpg

Had a look at a pic of this setup on FB and the Deutsch DTM is apparently for the level sender and not the pumps. So no worries.

Ahhh! :D What was the rating for the connector on the lift pump? Isn't it around 14A constant?

Heading into the fab shop tomorrow for updates. Toyota 8" and Fuel Tank should be done. It's going on the lift and we're doing the triangulated 4-link! Yay!

:egrin: *budget* *budget* *budget* :egrin:

Toyota 8" getting stripped down for Lotus Link configuration and 300M axles being knocked down to fit Turbo II rotors and converting to 5x114.3 lug pattern (from Toyota's 6x5.5" ~140mm). #FFRFabrication #Mazdarati #Toyota8 #LotusLink

http://go.ffrfabrication.com/


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...7c3a1d83ed.jpg

https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...e368d8703b.jpg

what rotor are cutting it to match to?

Turbo II Rear Rotor & Caliper Setup. Easy OEM solution. :blush:

I wanted to clear 15s and get the car dialed on 225/45-15s before going crazy with wheels/huge tires. There's so much that needs to be done before maximizing my tread footprint, it's not even funny.

I'm going to have to borrow a set of a buddy's 275/35-15s for test fitment in the rear... That'd be dope if they offered any decent street tires for it! Hehehe. At least it gives me a reference as to what I'll be able to fit.

Because my battery location is SO odd, I'm going to run either an Odyssey PC950 (or 2 if there's room), or a PC1100 with the Phoenix Gold Amplifier, Circuit Breakers, Relays, and 4-Link Channels surrounding them.

*Holy shit, my amp is 23.3" L and my 4-Link is 24" separation. It's going to be TIGHT.*

Might need these values later:

...Speedometer standard 1025 revolutions per mile (US standard 1000 revolutions per mile).
...Coolant temp sending unit- 190-260 ohms @ 122 degrees F.
...Coolant temp gauge- hot=16.9 to 21.1 ohms / cold=178.4 to 240 ohms.
...Oil pressure sending unit- engine stopped=74+ ohms / 30psi=43 ohms / 45psi=50-57 ohms.
...Oil pressure gauge- 120psi=10 ohms / 60psi=28 ohms / 0psi=infinity.
...Fuel level sending unit- full=6 ohms / 1/2=31.5 ohms / empty=80 ohms.
...Fuel level gauge- full= 7.4 ohms / 1/2=31.5 ohms / empty= 75.9 ohms.

Ran into a few snags with the fabrication shop expanding, but we should have rear end grafted in, as well as V-Mount setup dialed by September/Early October at the latest.

My new job is taking up a lot more of my time (and actually paying a good bit more than previous jobs), and school starts in late August, so everything is on track.

• Injector Dynamics 1300s and 1700s will come with their new pump, which is still in development. So that could be half a year or so...not sure.

• Battery and Amp fitment are still driving me nuts, but I'll make it work once the rear end is set up to my specs. Who needs a battery or great sound system when your car handles beautifully and a solid axle setup outhandles 95% of the modern double wishbone/macpherson strut/trailing arm setups? :egrin::egrin::egrin:

For now, here are some of the recent Integra (my daily driver) mods:



https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...ed8d0a2d60.jpg
New Rx-7 Front Badge!


https://cimg9.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...c8a063e62c.jpg

New Sound Deadening for the Integra


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...f273a1a4a6.jpg

Old Blown Speakers. WOW!


https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...b5b1401d8c.jpg

Interior before I finalized subwoofer rewire and reinstalled seats.


https://cimg2.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...017574fbef.jpg

New Company Stickers!


https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3cabe24d1f.jpg

New Spherical LCAs for the Integra!

https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...fa24909169.jpg

#RGHTBrainDesign<br/>#ThisIsDream<br/>#Speechless

Did I forget anything in this build? Kinda tough using mostly circle track parts and converting them over to a smaller car. :egrin:

Handling is being covered by Paul Yaw, local racers, and I. No swaybars here!
Engine is pretty lame, but with a potent fueling and direct fire package.
Cooling, whether it's from air, oil, or coolant is an order of magnitude or so better than any OEM system.
Wheels/Tires are basic 225/45-15 Square setup and will continue to run square (hopefully upwards of 245) as the car becomes more refined.

So where are we at with Fabrication? It's slow, but the fab shop I'm at just expanded and the car is getting a jig built around it for easier construction. Remember, I'm adding torsional rigidity. It's a canyon carver, and I don't want to die in the case of an accident.

What are your thoughts on sway bars/ lack there of?

I like the idea of an independent suspension and something using my "frame" or chassis as a torsional unit doesn't exactly strike me as smart. There were tests on the FC chassis where it showed weakening/severe flexing of the chassis - probably under one of the "chassis stiffening" threads.

Real World Experience:

What does an anti-roll bar do? It improves AVERAGE grip levels for the driver (more forgiving). What does this mean? It means that Joe-Schmoe can throw his car around and the anti-rollbar will do a great job at being predictable and grip will be very manageable up until a certain point. After about 8/10ths, the car will start to break away less predictably and overall lateral grip is decreased. With the bars removed, not only is feel improved, but NVH is lower, faulty alignments easier to identify, and driving at the limits of adhesion are more predictable.

Use spring rates, roll center, roll center rake, and proper dampening to dial in the car without them. No need for anti-roll bars.

On another note, MOST aftermarket companies claim that raising the rear roll center and increasing rear anti-squat on a RWD chassis is what you want. I'm going to say that 9 out of 10 times, that's not the case, and they are totally off their rocker.

Again though, it all comes down to combinations of parts and how they all work together. Our driving styles dictate quite a bit about vehicle setup as well.

I'll be very interested where you end up, I am running 350 lb springs in the rear and probably 400 to 500 lb in the front, I wonder how it would feel not having them, especially for drifting. This build is cool, can't wait to see more fab

Are you running something like the T3 setup on a 1st Gen front end geometry? Definitely one of the higher sprung setups that I've heard of for these cars, so post a picture, tell me more about it!

The front geometry of a McPherson strut car of this era really goes to shit as you lower it. I believe Page 2 shows pictures of what an FC racer developed for roll center correction (a proper way of doing it).

Rear Geometry on the FB isn't the greatest, but at least it's a Watt's Link. Lowering it and link lengths being unequal (for packaging reasons) kinda screws you up throughout travel (which since you're running pretty high spring rates, there will be less travel).

It comes down to the FB loving OEM height and relatively stiffer springs. :D

I haven't done it yet, but yes I will be making my own version of a T3 set up in the front. I will also be making some tall roll center correction spacers since I am so low and I hope that will help. I may build adjustable links for the watts to help get it more centered when its lowered. honestly the way it is now the 350 rear springs feel fine, little to no body roll

I've been running no sway bars on my autocross cars for years and like it a lot. I was just wondering what your reasoning was since you seem to have a decent idea of suspension design and no sway bars goes against the norm.

My FC autocross car is currently running 900/600 and it's good. I wouldn't run that much rear spring unless you have decent aero and like a loose car though (and I'm running slicks... so Gs are a bit higher). what most people forget is when you ditch the front sway bar you have to compensate for the lost roll resistance with more spring, which is going to be more than you think considering these springs aren't binding like the sway bar probably was :)

my corolla is running 525/700 on street tires and it's a little soft as far as roll goes, but the rear springs make it a bit brutal on the street. the FC is surprisingly completely fine on the street, good dampers make a big difference :)

Funny you mention the Corolla. My Integra is 550F/400R w/ 24mm Comptech Rear Sway Bar on Hardest Setting. Since FWD is essentially a horse before the cart, I've never hated the idea of a swaybar on the rear of these types of vehicles. The rear only needs to track with the front, or ideally help rotate for turn in, and then stabilize in straightaways. Dampers are set 5/16 F (1 being softest), 9/16 R, and it's incredibly well damped and comfortable, with very minimal body roll. I'm known in these parts as the local setup guru (and normally I wouldn't give any of this information out), and my builds show.

The Corolla you have is set up how MOST H1 Honda Challenge cars run. Higher rear spring rate, probably more negative camber in the rear too (which mine is hovering -1.0 R). Just different ways to produce a neutral handling FWD setup. My car is also a dual purpose rig and is corner balanced at 2888# with me and half a tank of fuel. #TrueFatty

It's true that once you get your spring rate ratios correct, less dampening is necessary. I like to tune my cars via ride frequency, then finalize break away characteristics and 10/10ths feel by fine tuning tire pressures. I've done anything from a 97 Viper GTS to 06 Audi S4 to Integra to Rx7 to 240sx to s2k to Miata to 65 Mustang. Hahaha, they're all different animals.

I actually washed my car for once... Well, it's been 8 months or so. New aero parts coming next week, so it's nicer to work on clean stuff. :egrin:


https://cimg7.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...8319f3f1ca.png

https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...3d4e2f410a.jpg

good insight into setup, I come from the offroad world and generally we will use the springs to mainly set the ride height and then change valving to suit. It should be noted that we use alot of dual rate spring setups though to change how a vehicle reacts at different ride heights and throughout the travel.

Let's Get This Show On The ROAD!

https://cimg6.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...59d8acd5ca.png

https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...dcf31c5b33.jpg

https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...2f24801212.jpg

Ohh, did I mention all this pristine OEM gear is for sale? :) Anything from the Evaporation System to the rear suspension, solid axle w/ disc brakes, etc

Right now I'm debating whether or not to move the reverse Satchell Link from 48 degrees separation to 45 degree separation so it's a little better at handling power vs. side to side control.

Is there a geometry calculator or suspension geometry design document you're basing this off of?