RGHTBrainDesign Tuned - 83 FB3s Gran Touring Build
 

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Herra Flush Breh


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New Wheels/Tires


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MADD Caster Breh


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Ride height and slight turn in steering


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Conversion Steering Shaft


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Dude, this is sick.

Interested to see where this goes

Ohh, what's up Mike!?! Woot woot, finally showing off an old build log from (originally 7Tune, then Adaptronic).

You've seen the progress on Facebook... Plenty of goodies in the near future. I'm going to finish the power steering and front coilovers tomorrow. ARP 12pts to the rescue!


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Pew Pew! Problem solved!

I like that fuse block, where did you get it, if you dont mind me asking

I'm assuming you mean the Circuit Breaker which is from BlueSea. It's only rated for 100A, so relays are needed for all the Inrush power from each system. Not pictured is a bunch of 4/5 pin 40A relays and 4 pin 70A relays.

The fuse holder is mini-ANL with dual 4ga on one side and tri 0ga on the other... Not a fan of THAT design at all.

Great start! I look forward to following this thread with interest. Your mod list is basically a wish list of everything mechanical I am doing or planning to do for my Oz-delivered series 3. One thing I definitely hadn't thought of is using the choke knob for controlling a butterfly valve in the exhaust. Very very clever, well done. I am toying with the thought of an ECU-controlled valve (aftermarket valves controlled by actuator are available here), just like the bimodal systems found on Ferraris etc. Ie mapping butterfly valve angle against rpm/throttle position

Don't throw away that factory headunit either. They are still worth something to guys like me who want to retain original interior appearance.

When I pull it out and all of the original factory electronics, pay shipping and they're yours.

That's both Clarion amplifiers, 4" front Speakers, 6.5" rear Speakers, and head unit. It should all fit in a USPS Large box for flat rate shipping, but I'm not sure if that's Aussie pricing (if they go international).

The #1 problem with an electronic cutout is the motor/wastegate actuator can't handle the rotary heat, regardless of the design. I'm stumped and need to look into aerospace products to find a solution. Let me just say that the 304SS isn't the problem, it's whatever flapper AND motor is actuating the cutout, as well as a poor efficiency from using a y-pipe. Going to 321SS or Titanium wouldn't solve this issue...we'd want a motor mounted lower than the radiating heat and shielded by a ceramic sock. :egrin:

Here's another thing to consider... Any Y-pipe in the system will lose power compared to a standard 3" exhaust system since air will go into that pipe and bounce back, creating unnecessary turbulence. On a 400whp setup, I'd expect it to lose me 20whp...but it would be awesome. With it open, the pressures are equalized, but NEITHER system is optimized. Here's a great video demonstrating this:


So if you're willing to make the sacrifice in power for fun, which I am, this is probably your best bet: Doug's Headers Electronic Cutout It still needs a y-pipe and downturn (minimum), and possibly a ceramic motor shield, so that $240 isn't exactly CHEAP.

I actually managed to locate a head unit in the US already, but if that unit isn't what I expected I'll be sure to let you know. I was just letting you know that someone on here is bound to pick it up :)

Details on the valve I'm looking at are here: Active Exhausts (check out the Stage 2 kit and the link for more technical info). It's somewhat different to what you're using. They are not a Y-pipe, but a butterfly valve, with an externally mounted vacuum solenoid - which sits a little way from the exhaust. Heat from a rotary shouldn't trouble this when mounted before the pipe goes over the diff, as AES recommends. This system has been tested on rotaries, as AES over here basically specialise in rotary exhaust systems.

That said, I imagine the butterfly valve will still present somewhat of a restriction at wide open position so it is not perfect either.

That butterfly valve has to come off of something and out to another thing to work.

They use INOX "Steel Wool" which is just like Magnaflow's Rock Wool and is not 2000F capable, so regardless of their history, their material selection isn't up to par with the application.

The butterfly actually sits inline in the main exhaust. Flange is welded to pipe either side, then bolt the valve inline.

The solenoid can sit wherever you want off the actuator, then your electrics control the solenoid. Pretty much the same way an electronically controlled turbo wastegate works (where temps are much much higher).

Oh and the INOX steel wrapped around perforated tube wrapped again with rockwool blanket is the exact design SMB used on their mufflers and which were specifically designed in collaboration with Mazda for the Bathurst 24 hour winning RX-7 SP. It is reliable and works. SMB is what half the FD guys on here use as well.

A lot of the problem with mufflers on rotaries aren't to do with the packing material but the actual construction method. As for AES, they are used on Ric Shaw's 24 hour nurburgring RX-7. Pretty sure they know what they are doing.

Magnaflow aren't great at reducing noise (mainly due to small volume) but I had one on a daily driven 12A for 8 years and the rockwool didn't burn out. The shitty resonators gave out way before the muffler.

Not trying to persuade you against your choice at all, just defending a product that is proven.

Ric Shaw definitely knows his shit... I love watching those videos of his at Bathurst.

I went with a ceramic packing material exhaust with 304SS construction. It's just preference I guess. I don't want it to blow out or overheat.

Without a y-pipe somewhere in line, where does the exhaust go? You NEED some separate pipe, you can't just close off the exhaust. That's my point.


Talking with a buddy who will eventually be my business partner at RGHTBrainDesign, I've come up with two ideas.

1) Run a 1-2 pipe (y pipe) with 3" in, dual 3" out off of the downpipe or after a ceramic resonator (or two) with the passenger side running the other mufflers and the valve and straight pipe on the driver side. As for appearances, I'd want to match rear mufflers, which one wouldn't do much to deaden sound... It'd be beast.

2) Put the y-pipe right off of the downpipe and route it into the passenger side fender (cut a hole) for a true side-exit exhaust. Flames would be epic...

As seen here:

That looks like a crazy setup! Look forward to seeing it.

I see what you mean about my idea. Let me explain, the butterfly valve can never fully close - otherwise you'd need somewhere for the gas to go, as you point it. When the valve is partially closed, it is basically a baffle that simulates a stock narrow diameter exhaust pipe. The obvious byproduct of this is a massive restriction in the exhaust preventing the engine from breathing properly. The butterfly valve angle therefore has to be tied to exhaust flow requirements.

At idle and cruise, the valve is near closed. At WOT, the valve is fully open. Then you basically need to tune the curve for opening angles everywhere in between.

A very early version of the product is illustrated in this article (it has had over 10 years of development since then): AutoSpeed - Butterfly Effect

It's a very different idea to what you're talking about.

On a turbocharged car, I can never see that as a good thing. I want as little back pressure as possible, which is why I go from 80mm downpipe to 76mm (3") exhaust.

My three mufflers are all LONG and through-style as to not slow air down. They even have internal velocity stacks and spun louvers to keep the flow rates up. The added exhaust system won't be made at first, but I really like all this brainstorming we've done on it.

Mad caster indeed! How many degrees have you managed to eek out? And how is that steering effort now lol

Haven't measured it to confirm anything, but well over 8 degrees. :egrin:

Factory steering is too light in most places, and this should balance things out. Adding steering weight via drift knuckles as well. The tenacity of turn in is incredible. 1/8" steering wheel is a LOT of angle. The factory setup would have twice that in SLOP alone! :egrin:

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Fabrication Commences!



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Magic. The Turbo II Transmission doesn't need to be modified to fit my FB at all... Y'all are crazy or something. Maybe with a FB front end it does, but with a FC subframe this is a DIRECT, PERFECT FIT! Suck it nerds.



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Perfect Condition OEM Fuel and Evaporation Systems FOR SALE! First one with money in hand takes it! <br/><br/>**Fuel tank is NOT for sale.**


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Close Up


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Lower Triangulated Links Mocked up. Not much needs to be done here. Just drop brackets and obviously the Toyota 8" axle.


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Upper Links. The cabin area here needs to be notched into to allow for proper length and geometry of these ones. Parallel and Level at ride height is the goal here.


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Money Shot! Expect to see some huge progress here over the factory "frame rails" as I tie them into the new 4-link and transmission crossbrace as a unified setup.

Nickname"Mazdarati"



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How did you go getting the bass drivers in the rear std location? I tried that once but it required too much spacing to keep the magnets off the outside skin and still get the plastics back on.

Ah, ok. Sounds like youve got some good ideas swimming around. Looking forward to seeing how this build comes along.

Perfect Condition OEM Fuel and Evaporation Systems FOR SALE! First one with money in hand takes it! <br/><br/>**Fuel tank is NOT for sale.**

How much do you want for that white valve that comes off the fuel pump

Want to just take everything for $100 + shipping? ;) You can part it out and make $$$.

Thank you Sir. Just chasing my dreams.

I only need the white valve looking thing, I think it's a roll over valve

Alright Eric, what will you give me for my roll over valve? :egrin:

I'll toss the lines and fuel pump assembly.

Alpine head unit, nice
PG amp, excellent
CDT drivers though?

I never understood the fascination with CDT. Their top of the line stuff is priced in line with middle tier equipment from brands like JL and Alpine but all they really offer is more wizardry with their crossovers and not a better value. If you toss the crossovers and run active (which I usually do to add time alignment) the drivers are rather harsh to the ears. I drank the Internet cool aid a number of years ago and tried their 3 way set but gave up on them after a year. Luckily I was able to sell them without losing too much coin to another cool aid drinker and never looked back.

Normally, I'm a Hertz/Audison kind of guy and I've worked in the car audio industry for years, so everything is at cost anyways. The CDT ES-Gold stuff matched the vision I had for the car with their beefy 6.5" subwoofers and 4-way front setup (6.5" in doors, 4" and 1.2" in kicks, and imaging tweeters up at the top of the A-Pillars.) So it's semi-active and without DSP designed for SQ.

Subwoofers are going to be run at 8 ohm off of my 5th channel (2x 4 ohm SVC Subwoofers in Series to create 8 ohm load). They'll be crossed at 70-80hz on that channel.

6.5" door woofers (ES-06) will be run off of the 2 REAR Channels so that I can bandpass them accordingly. 60-300hz or somewhere around there.

The last two channels (FRONT) go to the EX-550 crossover which has a natural 2.5k crossover from mids to tweets. These channels will be low passed on the amplifier at 250-300hz.


I'm happy with experimenting with audio stuff. My daily driver has had it's set of Image Dynamics CXS62s for at least 5yrs now and I loved their sound signature once I properly time aligned and tuned the system (for my preferences). It's SQL, full 2 ohm system...loud. 13.5" JL Audio w3 in a ~4sq.ft. bass reflex enclosure designed by PWK Designs out of Tombstone, AZ. Audison Primas will replace the CXS62 sometime later this year. Their coloring is really to my liking.

Alpine and JL Audio aren't even in the same league as these guys... Alpine makes amazing electronics, and JL's amps are pretty damn good too, but their speakers don't match the rest of their lineup at all. I love the Alpine Type R subwoofer for its versatility, but a Hertz/Audison subwoofer absolutely walks all over it for both SQ and SPL.

Maybe I've been out of the game too long. When I was comparing JL to CDT, DLS, Focal, Hertz, Morel, and a few others the CDT just weren't cutting it. This is going back about 7-8 years though. I can't remember if it was ES or HD series though. I've heard some great sounding systems with Alpine but never installed them for myself. I think you may be right though, as I look back all the alpine systems were heavily processed with more alpine equipment so I never got an honest read on the speakers alone.

I'm still trying to decide what to do with my REPU. Maybe I'll start considering CDT again. I'm planning to put in a MiniDSP C-DSP and some micro class-D amps. I've got miata seats going in with head rest speakers and thumpers, and I'll probably add 4" or 5.25"s to the kick panels. Whatever I can find that has a shallow mounting depth because leg room is at a premium.

Anyway, looking forward to watching your build! If I ever make it out to an event in CA I'd love to hear it!

The PG Ti2 Series, 5ch Amp is incredible for its size. My shop that I used to work for carries it and if it wasn't for the over the top audiophile aspect of this build, I would have been VERY happy with that amp with 1/4 the footprint. Phoenix Gold - Ti2 Series 5ch Amp

My buddy has OLD connections with CDT and I asked him about what he thought of it (since I demoed his 3 way before deciding to go this route). He said CDT of new is completely different than what they had 5+ yrs ago and you're essentially getting Audison quality for a fraction of the cost. A 10yr warranty on the ES Gold series is pretty cool... The product construction is outstanding. I'll make it work. :egrin:

For DSP, it's pretty hard not to say the Bit One/Bit Ten D. Honestly, a DSP isn't for me...I can do most of my tuning with hardware anyways.

One of my favorite installs ever was YawPower's (Yes, the guy who did these carbs and the FC racing parts way back in the day) Mustang GT500 with a fully optical system running an Audison AP8.9 fully active. Prima 8", Voce 4", Voce Tweeters + Alpine M12 Amp for da bassssssss. It's a stealth install and might also be another great choice for your amp.

Yo Dawg, I heard you liked rails on yo rails!


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Grinding away the undercoating.


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The lighting doesn't do it justice. It's SO shiny!


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40ft of 2.5" Square Tubing. 0.083" wall


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That's me. Goin' Ham!

Fuel tank is cleaned and prepped. Waiting on the IST.

My for sale thread is getting a lot of hits and I managed to find a local buyer for most of the big stuff.

Just did an amazing Tahoe trip, so I'll need that money, hahaha.

Fabrication is steady, I'm trying to stay out of my buddy's way. He knows exactly what I'm looking for and is a magician. I am no fabricator...

Another audio question for you. Will those CDT subwoofers fit behind the factory trim panel?

No, they won't. The REAR section where I test fitted my amplifier can house two individual subwoofer enclosures (sealed) with the correct air space for these woofers. Being that my amplifier can EASILY overpower their rated maximum, and I'll be sure to run them hard, I feel as if that location will suit me well.

I think I might even run a set of rear fill speakers now off of headunit power, now that I know that's available space.

As for how the sound will travel, the panels will be cut open for the speaker to flex, and a fine cloth will go in front to protect the woofers. Should work nicely. We'll see when I get to it.

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Not much to say. Just a small update. ;)

People ask me all the time, "Ryan, why do you like cars so much?" Well, it's all about the dopamine rush from hitting those canyon roads HARD and besting yourself. I always run as if I'm chasing me... It puts all aspects of life in line and centers me.

Here's a few shots from today's drive.

The Porsche isn't mine, just a random car at one of the wineries I made it to. In four hours however, I'll be shooting with Sharkwerks Porsche Specialists up in the mountains. Hope to make an epic video out of it for you guys.

For now, here's my YouTube channel and another run I did not too long ago.

RGHTBrainDesign (YouTube)




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I put my heart and soul into this one...

As promised:

My Dual Purpose Daily Driver/Canyon Carver


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Economy/Winter Setup vs. New 15x9 Jongbloeds with 225/45-15 BFG Rival S Tires.


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1/32" Clearance from Rear Trailing Arm and Heim joint on Rear UCA (Camber Kit) to the inside of my new wheels. #Ballin


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Sweet Integra, and super sweet FB build! I'm really enjoying it and it's great to see people making cool stuff.
I apologize if you've answered this before elsewhere, but did you use the front studs for mounting the FC subframe or just located it and welded it in where you wanted? And did you splice the FB/FC steering shafts together?

I'm looking forward to seeing how you do the toyota rear end in there too. Keep up the good work!

:egrin: Thank you, Thank you! :egrin:

For the FC Subframe, I maintained the OEM front studs and dropped in a 5/8" bolt for the rear unit. I had to fabricate a sleeve for the frame rail housing to stay true (so I could clamp down hard pulling the subframe up), and in the process was able to space the subframe from that same sleeve. I chose this spacing to gain me more caster and it's not ideal for a few other reasons, but it works for MY particular setup. Spacing is required as Alex (Whizbang) has shown previously.

For the steering rack, it was pretty simple. Yes, combined the FB and FC units so I could retain the FB interior bits (cancellation of the turn signal and ignition unit) and the base of the FC stuff to line up with the 3-port rack. My buddy and I were able to line it up BETTER than the factory unit and it's butter smooth to turn my drift knuckles unassisted (imagine instant off center response + stupid quick steering).

Yes...I said drift knuckles. It's a grand touring car, so comfort and cruising is it's main goal, and steering will be dicey for an untrained driver. But with the electronically controlled hydraulic steering, I'll be able to dial in (via M6000 Adaptronic ECU) exactly how much assistance I want at whatever speed. Supercomputer ECU status...lol.

The Toyota rear end is pretty dope, I could manufacture another setup for someone relatively cheap, it's just about locating the right parts at the right time. The MKIII Supra LSD is not easily sourced, especially in the condition I found mine in (80mi from Toyota direct). My axles are 6 lugs, converted 5x114.3 and turned down to fit FC Turbo II rear calipers/rotors, so brakes are ALL TII throughout. Easy peasy maintenance.

Eventually, when I start turning up boost and likely on another motor, I'll be using a transmission/rear differential cooler setup which will constantly pump 75w-140 throughout both, loop through a cooler, and recirculate.

Rebirth of GreenTeg


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