Thanks man, I'm trying. It's all a work in progress and I have a lot of room to improve myself and the car.

RGHTBrainDesign Rotary Engine Development Projects

This thread goes over it pretty well. Are you trying to apply this to your own work? I could guide you on that depending on your goals.

The main downside of going DBW Single Blade TB is that you lose the functionality of the Primary/Secondary control via the Factory FC/FD throttle blade system. So my approach was to control the FD Upper Intake Manifold to do just that using the vacuum actuated flappers to control Primary/Secondary airflow.

DBW doesn't really have a TPS, per say. It's Throttle Applied on the Pedal Assembly and Throttle Body Demanded Angle. That curve can be built out to do anything.

I also don't have a single MAP sensor. I'm using what's called Throttle Mass Flow by grabbing data from two MAP sensors, one pre-TB, one post-TB to evaluate transient fueling airflow needs nearly instantaneously via Navier Stokes equation. My car is also comparing MAP vs. BAP (Barometric) and compensating for EMAP which directly effects o2 sensor control. Sounds complex, it's a lot of sensors, but the point is to give the computer as much data as possible and let it do the hard work. :)

Nice. Man, I am jealous of the S2 instruments. The tach is in the proper position on those, the middle. And bigger.

I really dig the Orange/Black, which is why it took me forever to hunt this car down. Love me that S2! :P

Manifold Design is mocked up. Here's where she will sit. Finally seeing some progress here. Really happy with the results.

22" Total Runner Length from Exhaust Flange to T4 Gasket using the 2.157" ID Sch10 Pipe.

Hanging it from the angle iron across the fenders to position it seems like a good way to ensure hood clearance. Nice.

Yes, it was my idea, oddly. I wanted to make sure I had adequate hood clearance as not to destroy the paint and figured, screw it "Tony, do you have any angle iron lying around?". He laughs and said, "You're an idiot, we're not going to use that..." We did, it worked beautifully.


https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...878b41b68e.jpg
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Don't mind me...

.

This week is going to be nuts. Stay tuned.

Very nice. Nice and unconvoluted. Im jealous of you LHD boys having all that room to do an equal length symetrical arrangement.
how did you come up with the headef length?

It's not finalized, but I figured somewhere between 20-28" would be fun to try. We still have to chop down the first piece off the exhaust flange to gain us proper expansion area around the shock tower. Originally I was going to double it over and aim for around 40" in runner, but the engine bay was just too cramped. This worked out perfectly. The idea was simply to contrast the previous design of Ultimate Response/Shortest Runner and strike a balance with the new 321ss Sch10 2.157" ID Pipe. By elongating the exhaust manifold runner, the influence that backpressure has on power up top is less. Simply put, a shorter runner is more likely to have EMAP:MAP ratio become <1 at lower RPM. In an ideal system we'd want a ratio less than 1.0 everywhere, the downside being slower response. On Rotary Engines, due to the Apex Seal and design, we know EMAP is truly one of our worst enemies. So lowered EMAP (backpressure) = a happier system. If the turbo is sized well it may spool and recover slightly slower but the power output mid and high rpm will be massively better (than the shorter runner design).

Excuse the poorly written answer, I'm absolutely exhausted. New 7am-6pm job, spending time at fabrication for a couple hours a day, and prepping Full-Race and a few other companies for SEMA. Things are WILD right now.

Yeah, LHD has a TON of room compared to the RHD guys. Your spark plug changes are nice though! :P

Head pipe is sick. That giant turbo is definitely going to be a focal point of the engine bay with it sitting up so high.

Some cool shots.https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx7...28817947ca.jpg
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Thanks for the support. :lol: :lol: :lol:

The proposed exhaust setup so far:

• EFR 9174 w/ 1.45 A/R Turbine Housing
• 3" V-Band on Turbine Housing with downturn to 3" to 4" expansion
• 4" Downpipe w/ Bellow
• Dual Turbosmart CompGate 40mm Wastegates w/ Bellows merged back into downpipe roughly 16" after turbine blade
• 4" Downpipe to Dual 3" Oval Y-Pipe
• 3" Oval IN/OUT Mufflers on either side of the underbody of the car. Between the driveshaft tunnel and frame rails.
• Ideal Muffler Dimensions are 3" x 9.5" x 32" for each of the "body" mufflers.
• Dual Oval 3" Over the Rear Axle to Merge into a Third, Center Exit Muffler that dumps as a 4" Oval Downturn.

Should be absolutely bitchin' and relatively quiet, while NOT reducing a bunch of power.

Laughing my ass off at these Dahm videos. I'll catch some of you at SEMA... #TeamNoSleep #NoSponsors #SixJobsIDontGetTired

Amazing work! Keep on going!

Thank you! I'll try to check out this cardboard muffler I just made next week and see just how reasonable this idea is.

Somewhere between "Rowdy As Fuck" and "Classy Enough for Tour d'Elegance Concourse at Monterey."

Really guys? Zero support? Zero input? I know the forums are dying, but damn, that's a shame.

The new proposed exhaust system is doing to be dual 3" oval muffler exits into a Y-Pipe single 4" oval that goes over (or under) the axle into the rear muffler which is around 5" x 10.25" x 18".

Sikky Shifter came in. It's incredible. Worth every penny. Bellhousing is cleaned. Clutch Center Hub is getting dropped off tomorrow for Wire EDM to its new input shaft size.Ohh, and this gem:

Great work as usual. Cant wait to see it running

Oh, I'm watching and reading, just don't really have anything to add over here. I'm just sitting here in awe of what this thing is going to be.

You can add me to that group. I have no idea how to do or engineer any of that work so I'm just watching in amazement.

You're way out in front of my experience. I've never even owned a turbo car (yet), much less a boosted rotary, but sure, I'll pipe up if I see something that doesn't look right, :)

I do know basically most of what's going on, or at least understand the reasoning behind it. Trust me, it's even more interesting when you do. Some very tidy fabrication going on there, just to start with.

Been busy clearancing/building/dynoing an E prod engine for a client who is packing up for Sonoma and the runoffs tomorrow. I'll come jerk off on your transmission invoice later.

:lol: :lol: :lol:

I'll build you one, then send an identical invoice your way. "Tremec, we like it slick (and use ATF)."

I didn't know u needed us to hold your hand to continue ur build...j/k

I highly doubt you have zero support...this fabrication stuff u do is extraordinary and above most of us. I read, enjoy in amazement, and don't comment as I don't want to make a fool out of myself. continue building...no shame here.

Well shit, I guess I DO have support now. No, I've always gone about this as just me sitting back and designing shit and my fabricator and I deciding on priorities together. He's a smart guy and a hell of a builder. That's my support system.

I'm going to send you a bill when you're done.

But I'll keep the tab running until after you've fired as that is where the real troubleshooting starts with a highly modified car. :beer:

Skeese

Oh yeah, can't forget all your help and bickering to get me where I'm at. :D :lol: :lol:

:worship:

Thank you. :P

Dang that's pretty.

I can't get over how good the gear ratios line up...

1st: 2.66
2nd: 1.78
3rd: 1.30
4th: 1.00
5th: 0.80
6th: 0.63
Final Drive Ratio: 4.56
Rear Tire Size = 25-26" Tall

Realistically, given the power output and weight, I should have stuck with the Supra MKIII Final Drive ratio of 3.73 or 3.9 (I forget what it was). The taller rear tire size should help with this.

The ratios do look good. I think 4.1 would be ideal final drive with that setup, but the fact gears 1, 2 and 3 are much longer than Mazda ratios will also help.

If anyone has a company/person they'd like me to get ahold of while at SEMA in Vegas next week, please let me know.

I just don't get over here often enough. I just started following you on Instagram though...and I'm on Facebook as much as I used to be on Forums and have seen you posting your videos there. Keep up the good work. I think the stuff you are doing is worthy of a much better YouTube channel. Your videos are pretty good, but not as engaging as something like "Project Binky" but sometimes you gotta choose between making good content and getting the work done. The days I get the most done on my projects I end up with two shitty photos not even worth sharing.

Nicely said. I'm working a LOT more now and about to finance a 2017 Lexus IS 200t. Just not enough to Dahm it since that IS his job.

Massive effort going into this.

The only thing that does concern me is why stick with a shitty cast alloy bellhousing when spending big in either time or money on everything else? There are off the shelf steel rotary to tremec bellhousings, given the revs and power this should be capable of seems a gamble, do you already have a scatter shield for the factory bell?

The quicktime unit is garbage. Yes, I'll be using a Goopy Performance Scatter Shield after I finalize the NEW clutch requirements.

Working with Mantic Clutch on a custom setup. Very excited.

Ohhh, and this is my update for y'all...


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OMP Control on the KV8 is getting done via DBW Control, which is REALLY cool. I'll end up doing a write-up on it for the Emtron support page and YouTube video explaining the process.

#BlackFriday

On the kitchen table? Isnt it supposed to go in the car?

Nice

Seriously, at the very least it should be set up next to a regulated DC bench power supply to make the beeps go boop and the bleeps go blip while it waits to go in the car.