father/sons restoration
#102
Out In the Barn
iTrader: (9)
Yes - it threads in from the front and then has a nut on the back side. There is also a battery cable bracket that goes on the front side. The bracket has some rubber isolators that go around the cables. I used silicon hose split down the side as isolators.
Last edited by KansasCityREPU; 02-18-24 at 09:35 PM.
#103
Paulieboy72
Thread Starter
Also have not looked at the cranking amps for battery. One I use is just a deep cyle I had laying around, the other is from my camper. What does a 12a need for CCA?
#106
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
Of course the battery needs to be in good condition, but I used a $30 lawn and tractor battery in my race car for years without any problems. I think it was 220CCA. It was way lighter than the stock size (thinking group 24?). I am not recommending that you get such a small battery, just noting that you don't absolutely need to have a massive battery.
Carl
Carl
#108
Paulieboy72
Thread Starter
Update
Put my teuck battery to the startwr today and it spun the motor really good. Must have been just a weak battery needed morw CCA. 750 to be exact. Thanks for all your help. No tear down required
#109
Paulieboy72
Thread Starter
Got it to turn over...needed all new cables and good grounds. Tried to fire it today, no luck just blows smoke out the exhaust. Has spark. Does it matter which lead from coils goes to which connector on the dizzy? Both are black with yellow tracer.
#111
Paulieboy72
Thread Starter
I set the timing before I installed the motor, my battery can't keep up. Can't push start it cause I don't have clutch working yet or wheels and brakes. Tried putting two steoke oil in cylinders. No luck. Any ideas that I'm missing?
#117
Out In the Barn
iTrader: (9)
That's progress. Congrats.
I'm not super familiar with the Nikki carb and if the float bowls can be filled from the top of the carb, but if they can it might help. My guess is that powering gas down the carb just washes away. It also dilutes the oil that way. Maybe gravity feed the carb? I know it's not the safest. If you do gravity feed, you'll still need the return line hooked up.
Is the tank in OK condition?
I'm not super familiar with the Nikki carb and if the float bowls can be filled from the top of the carb, but if they can it might help. My guess is that powering gas down the carb just washes away. It also dilutes the oil that way. Maybe gravity feed the carb? I know it's not the safest. If you do gravity feed, you'll still need the return line hooked up.
Is the tank in OK condition?
#119
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
So I am confused. How have you been trying to fuel the carb? Just dumping gas down the throat of the carb? If so, it seems that would likely lead to flooding, followed immediately by no fuel. Gravity feed should work fine. If you want to get 2psi fuel pressure you can suspend the bottle about 6' above the carb. Also make sure that the fuel level is about correct in the carb bowls. I don't think you need the recycle line open, since that is really only there to accommodate varying fuel consumption smoothly under normal driving conditions. Just starting and idling the engine should not have any problems.
I once drove almost 200 miles in Baja California gravity feeding the carb on my VW bus. Found a gas tank at a wrecking yard after the fuel pump crapped out and hung it above the engine bay. Glad we survived :-)
Carl
I once drove almost 200 miles in Baja California gravity feeding the carb on my VW bus. Found a gas tank at a wrecking yard after the fuel pump crapped out and hung it above the engine bay. Glad we survived :-)
Carl
The following users liked this post:
Toruki (02-29-24)
#121
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (2)
Of course, it can also still be beneficial to get the initial start with starter fluid even though you are gravity feeding the carb. Not unlike using starter fluid to get the engine started when the complete fuel system (pump, carb, etc) is hooked up and working (more or less anyway).
Carl
Carl
The following users liked this post:
VA RX7 (04-25-24)
#123
Paulieboy72
Thread Starter
update
my sons and i have gotten the 84 GSL running again, we have two more heat cycles to do on the rebuilt motor and then we should be able to start driving it lightly. still working out some bugs with the motor, gauges and things. thinking of swithching the gauges out for aftermarket ones as the stock ones are subpar.
The following 2 users liked this post by Paulieboy72:
KansasCityREPU (05-12-24),
Toruki (05-12-24)
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