KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

I think RadPotential on YouTube did a video on how easy one should spin. https://www.youtube.com/@RADPotential

Paulieboy72

yes it spun this easily until i completed putting all the stuff on it i can spin it with a 1/2 drive wrench with a little force

Paulieboy72

To the community...during our rebbuild should we delete the OMP. Pretty sure it works but I don't mind premix done it for years on orher toys. What is the drawback of no OMP? If yes how do I block off the port?

VA RX7

I like to keep the OMP, and premix. That way I am getting lubrication regardless the amount of premix in my tank. But if you're sure that you can keep up on premixing all the time you can delete it no problem.

Here is an OMP block off plate from Atkins Rotary: 79-85 12A Rx7 Oil Metering Pump Block Off Plate (3997-10-602) (atkinsrotary.com)

If you decide to keep the OMP here is the Atkins rebuild kit, I rebuilt mine recently, it is very easy: 79-88 Rx7 Oil Metering Pump Rebuild Kit (ARE600) (atkinsrotary.com)

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

i like to keep the metering pump too, that way if i don't have premix, or don't feel like it, its fine

Paulieboy72

I have looked in the Factory Service Manual and my Haynes repair manual....I cant seem to find out what the wires on the manual trans are for and what wires they connect to on the engine harness that is on the drivers side fender. I know what wires go to the starter, alternator, dizzy however there are some that don't match colors with the ones on the transmission. I cant remember what color they are right now. also, the wires I need for the coolant level sensor and temp sensor are those in my emissions harness on the passenger side? what wires do I need to keep from the emissions harness as I have done the emissions/rats nest delete. looks like some of the wires connect to the front harness but I don't know for what. Any help would be appreciated.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

The very last page of the factory wire diagram (page 50:37) shows connector X-09 (page 50:29) that connects between the front harness and transmission harness. Connector X-10 (page 50:19) also goes to the trans.

I wouldn't be in a hurry to remove any wiring at this stage. Get it running first. Removing the emissions wiring once it's running isn't very hard.

Paulieboy72

ok thanks

Paulieboy72

Missing the mabifold nuts fir our motor. Anyone know what the two sizes are? Also missing the exhaust manifold nuts. Book doesn't tell me

Paulieboy72

Also where does the business end of the speedo cable go? Comes out of firewall, then where to?

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Use a flat washer, then a lock washer, then the nut on all of these. I also like to use a little anti-seize.

Intake: 8mm x 1.25 for studs nuts and bolts
Exhaust: 10mm x 1.5

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

On the outside, tt goes down the firewall to the trans. Inside the car it goes to the back of the speedo.

Paulieboy72

Thank you

Paulieboy72

Where on the trans does it plug in?

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

It screws in. The tip has a keyed part that fits into the slot on the trans gear. The outer portion of the cable has a metal sleave and it then screws onto the trans. This connection toward the rear of the trans just aft of the trans crossmember.

Paulieboy72

Ok great thank you

Paulieboy72

getting ready to drop in the motor/trans worried that it wont fire. timing is set carb is on and modified....this is where the worry comes in, it is rebuilt with a quality kit cleaned and floats reset per the FSM. all emmisions are removed. AP rebuilt. new plugs and wires, oil in the block and rotated 20 times by hand for lubrication. going to see if it will fire after i squirt fuel in the carb from a pop bottle. any thoughts?

Paulieboy72

So today I installed the original starter on the trans. Hooked up a fully charged battery, jumped the ignition terminal and it turned the flywheel very slowly. Absolutley not enough to start anything. Battery not new, just full charge. Any ideas? Motor too tight? With all the external things on it I can turn it over with a socket with a little effort, also tried my pnumatic impact gun to turn it over with no luck. Any ideas? Impact has 450 lbs of torque supposedly and it wouldn't budge the eshaft.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Something is in a bind. You should be able to turn it with a socket or with the flywheel by hand without much effort.

Paulieboy72

How tight shoukd the motor be with the front cover, oil pump, all exterior accesories. Ie alternator waterpump, belt ect. I can turn it over with a socket wrench with sone effort. Surely more than 15 ftlbs do I need to tear it back down and start over? I'm not sure the condition of the original starter. It spins free on the bench, installed not so much. Full charge battery, not new however, and old jumper cables. I know a lot of factors. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Paulieboy72

Kansas city, I can turn it over with a socket with some effort. Someone said should be no more than 15 lbs of torque with everything installed. I can also turn it by the flywheel with a little effort. Maybe the starter is on its deathbed?

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

That's good news that you can turn it over and it doesn't get stuck. Wonder if the starter bendix is bad? Did you bench test the starter?

Paulieboy72

Yes it spins good on the bench. It turns the flywheel installed on trans bit very slowly the cables get hot

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Are the battery cables new? I'd make sure the ground is really good and goes to the long starter bolt. The original cables can go bad but look OK.

Paulieboy72

My jumper cables are pretty old just wondering if the starter is too weak even though it spun on the bench I don't reallybwant to tearbthe motor down again.