father/sons restoration
#52
Paulieboy72
Thread Starter
Great that's better anyhow. I hated drum brakes on my old rx. Now I have to see if the factory radio works after the PO removed it, I am sad however that I won't be able to use Cruise control PS I found a used wiper motor close to me so thank you.
#53
Revotee
iTrader: (3)
So we have been researching our 84 GS...according to the VIN. Also according to the VIN the GS had manual windows, manual mirrors, drum brakes in the rear and an open diff. I have been checking out our project, so far I have discovered it has PW, PMirrors, 4 wheel disc brakes, LSD, and lug nits instead of bolts....what gives? Accorsing to the VIN it shoukdnt have any of those things...any ideas?
Or even better, try contacting j9fd3s. He may still be able/willing to look up your VIN in the Mazda database and give you more info as he has done for me.
Last edited by XLNDRVR; 10-28-23 at 08:56 PM.
The following users liked this post:
j9fd3s (10-30-23)
#56
Paulieboy72
Thread Starter
Update
Updates: 1984 RX7 GSL. First found out our project car is a GSL....bonus. this means rear discs, LSD PW, PM and the such. We have got the wipers working, horn, headlights go up and down and turn on. Started rwmoving the rear calipers. Found the slide pins seized but have since got them out. We will work on cleaning them up next up is checking the pistons.
we have built the rotors with all seals and clearancea within tolerance. Covered them in vaseline as tonot rust
painted plates and housings, cleaned up some parts and the tank
we have built the rotors with all seals and clearancea within tolerance. Covered them in vaseline as tonot rust
painted plates and housings, cleaned up some parts and the tank
The following users liked this post:
VA RX7 (11-30-23)
#58
Paulieboy72
Thread Starter
got the fuel tank cleaned, put in a new used fuel sending unit and reinstalled the fuel pick up tubes. just dont know which nipple goes to the fuel pump. rear caliper pistons are siezed but i scored a used set of calipers for 170 in working order. still looking into having my old ones rebuilt by cardone industries. if anyone needs a pair that need a rebuild....PM me
Last edited by Paulieboy72; 12-07-23 at 10:07 AM.
#59
Rotary Enthusiast
Here's what I did on my 83. The rear upper and lower control arms want to be the OEM rubber as they need the compliance to move somewhat side to side rather than just up and down. The deal with OEM though is that you need to buy replacement control arms rather than removing the old rubber and pressing in new rubber yourself, that is, you can't get just the rubber bushings for the control arms AFAIK. The Watts link, stabilizer bar and stabilizer bar end links can all be replaced (melt the rubber and push it out, clean the metal ID with a wire wheel) with urethane parts from Energy Suspension.
I've marked the spot in these diagrams (old Black Dragon catalog drawings, now out of business), blue = rubber and red could be urethane. If cost is no problem, maybe you could get all OEM rubber in new stock parts? I've not researched that though.
I've marked the spot in these diagrams (old Black Dragon catalog drawings, now out of business), blue = rubber and red could be urethane. If cost is no problem, maybe you could get all OEM rubber in new stock parts? I've not researched that though.
#62
Senior Member
iTrader: (1)
neither do I.. the theory is the same with the tendency to snap steer when you add poly bushing in rear it adds to the problems with this setup..
im running about 500whp in mine and dont run one.. good self made coilover setup and it handles like its on rails on the street..
im running about 500whp in mine and dont run one.. good self made coilover setup and it handles like its on rails on the street..
#64
Paulieboy72
Thread Starter
Update
Me and the youngest boy, today stacked ths motor....progressinv through the steps too fast and had to diassemble part way through due to forgetting to install apex seals and dowel rod oil rings. Back together now. We will have a complete short block 2marrow....question? The FSMand my haynes manual both count 18 torsion bolts however our 12a only has 17 holes and 17 bolts....? ODD? Anyone have an idea?
#65
Out In the Barn
iTrader: (9)
Me and the youngest boy, today stacked ths motor....progressinv through the steps too fast and had to diassemble part way through due to forgetting to install apex seals and dowel rod oil rings. Back together now. We will have a complete short block 2marrow....question? The FSMand my haynes manual both count 18 torsion bolts however our 12a only has 17 holes and 17 bolts....? ODD? Anyone have an idea?
#69
Paulieboy72
Thread Starter
Update
Worked on the 12A today. All internals are complete, frint cover is on just need to tighten the flywheel nut. Also anyone know what this part goes to? Not in my manual.
#73
Paulieboy72
Thread Starter
tightness
so we got the motor back together and all the parts put on...my question is....is it normal for the engine to be tight once the oilpump, front cover, flywheel and such are on. when all this was off it turned over quite easily now its a little harder takes a little bit of force maybe 20 lbs of force?
#74
Out In the Barn
iTrader: (9)
so we got the motor back together and all the parts put on...my question is....is it normal for the engine to be tight once the oilpump, front cover, flywheel and such are on. when all this was off it turned over quite easily now its a little harder takes a little bit of force maybe 20 lbs of force?
#75
Paulieboy72
Thread Starter
yes endplay is in spec. motor turned easily with nothing on it. once oilpump and drive and front cover and all that it turns harder. how easy should it turn with all that installed?