Thanks,ill empty it

 

freaking $25 little filter (air filter for MAP sensor)!

 

MAP sensor vacuum hose installed along with it's air filter
tranny o-ring replaced

updated list (adding and removing items as i complete or think of other things)

-run vacuum lines to boost controller
-install hood and check for clearance against intercooler piping
-run hose for catch can
-fill tranny/check for leaks
-buy spark plug wires
-install front seat
-WIRING <-this is the scary one (PFC, alternator, fans, fuel pump, MAP sensor, etc)
-tune PFC
-fabricate intake box/panel (optional)
-fabricate brake master cylinder brace (optional)
-install boost gauge (optional)

 

I'm curious about this one.

 

I see this done on the FC and FD side mainly which supposedly gives better braking feel by reducing flex from the firewall. Probably not something I will do at this time though.

 

Looking good Craaaazzy! Gotta love when the "to do" list gets shorter and shorter.

 

yep, slowly but surely...

 

So today I was able to make my spark plug wires. Used the MSD Street Fire universal kit (part #5551 as it had straight spark plug boots with 90* boots on the coil side). First time making it and pretty easy to do. I did have to redo the first one thought as I had forgotten to put the boot on prior to crimping the connector, but the kit has plenty of different boots and connectors as I still have enough for a second set in the future (v8 kit).

Also received my custom length 4ga cables which I used to wire up my battery and alternator. So now I have 4ga for all my big items:
-battery to fuse box (power)
-fuse box to alternator (power)
-battery to starter (power)
-starter to strut tower (ground)
-alternator bracket to strut tower (ground)
-battery to strut tower (ground)

And lastly, I hooked up the vacuum lines to the boost controller (thanks Erick for the vacuum hose!)

I have pics but not worth posting...just some black and red wires running on the driver's side of the engine bay.

updated list (adding and removing items as i complete or think of other things)

-install hood and check for clearance against intercooler piping
-run hose for catch can
-fill tranny/check for leaks
-install front seat
-WIRING <-this is the scary one (PFC, alternator, fans, fuel pump, MAP sensor, etc)
-tune PFC
-fabricate intake box/panel (optional)
-fabricate brake master cylinder brace (optional)
-install boost gauge (optional)

 

Nice progress. But doesn't 4 awg seem far too small? All wirteups I've seen use 2/0 or 70mm2 aye. I'm currently doing the same thing and have 70mm2 cable coming

 

4ga should be fine in my opinion. I'm using a TII starter which is the same kw as the GSL-SE so stock 4ga cable should be fine. have only added 2 gauges to the interior (wideband needs to be added) but did upgrade the stock wire from the battery to the fuse box (stock looked small...maybe 12 ga) so going to 4ga there is already an upgrade. In terms of the cable to the alternator...im not drawing huge power from the battery like the guys running large sound systems (I don't even have a stereo system as the sound of the rotary is good enough for me) so recharge wire doesnt need to be huge. I hope I made the right decision though...

 

Wow! You've been busy. Looking good. Should be dang fast.

 

Thanks ^^^

So started working on some wiring...specifically for the wideband which will be located where the clock used to be. Also took the opportunity to redo the wiring I had for the water temp and oil pressure gauges. I'm not good with wiring so I think this came out pretty good.

Back:


Front:


Still need to run a power wire from the fuse box and install it on the car.

updated list:
-install hood and check for clearance against intercooler piping
-run hose for catch can
-fill tranny/check for leaks
-bleed clutch
-bleed brakes
-install front seat
-WIRING <-this is the scary one (PFC, alternator, fans, fuel pump, MAP sensor, etc)
-tune PFC
-fabricate intake box/panel (optional)
-fabricate brake master cylinder brace (optional)
-boost gauge (optional)

 

Center console done and back in the car. You can see a green wire on the passenger footwell, that's the wideband wire to connect to the datalogit when I get to it.



Next will be completing the wiring of the alternator.

 

here's the inside of the hood. I'm sure the scoop adds some rigidity to the hood.

 

Thanks...the vents I'm looking at are fairly small so I don't think I will have any issues but I am pretty sure I will need to cut away some of the bracing...that will come much later though

 

+1. The FD and other modern cars use 2 or 0. I personally wouldn't use 4 for the battery main power and ground.

 

I never got a response from the fd forum on what the stock size was. But I did do lots of research and based on what I read, 4 gauge should be fine. I will upgrade to 2 if I relocate the battery to the rear bin.

 

Got a little done today and that was to compete the wiring of the alternator as well as fill the tranny with 1/2 quart of oil (I didn't want to fill it completely prior to confirming there were no leaks).

Here's the little harness I built for the alternator in order to connnect to existing gsl-se plug and REW alternator:

 

Forgot to mention, when digging through the existing gsl-se alternator wiring, I found this. It's a grounding wire to the intake. Not sure if this is how it came from the factory or if someone tried to make a repair or something but I ended up having to fix this as well. Before and after shots (heat shrink applied afterwords):

 

Checked tranny and no leaks so filled her up with the 2 bottles of fluid I had. Need to buy one more bottle at another store as the one I went to only had 2.

Also modified a little bracket in order to use it as a ground for the rear of the engine. Not pretty but hopefully works.





And since the positive wire on the alternator did not have a boot, I took one of the extra boots from plug wire kit and used that. Not great but better than nothing.

 

Nice! Really good progress, you're almost there!

 

Isn't that w/r wire the standard positive alternator cable? Or am I somewhere completely different hahahah. Nice updates

 

Thanks. Slow progress as family and other obligations come first...but it will get done

When I removed the stock engine, I had labeled all the wires and that one was marked as ground to the intake. Will have to take a look at the wiring diagram later on now.

And today I was able to push the engine harness past the firewall. Man, was that a pain. I had to remove parts of the hvac to accomplish this. Also removed the passenger side seat to make it a bit easier.

 

Well, I just checked and your right! Thanks for catching that. So that wr was the stock B+ wire.

 

I think I know how I confused myself. Here's a pic of the stock engine. You can see here that there is this sort of "block" on the intake. Not knowing alternator wiring, this WR wire was attached to it and then another wire connected it to the alternator B+. So it wasn't a ground but a positive wire.