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wideband has been calibrated and reads 22.4 as it should without a running car.
tackled the oil system. followed instructions about pouring some oil down the oil pedestal in order to start filling up the oil cooler and lubing the bearings and have confirmed the car can build oil pressure! no leaks coming from any of the hoses. will check the oil pan for the next few days and hope there are no leaks from there (drain pug is not leaking either...lol).
forgot to mention that i also have spark on the trailing plugs (did not check leading plugs)...but this leads me to believe the wiring for the TII CAS as well as the modified TII igniters/coils are good. ordered new NGK plugs today and will put those in when they get in. going with NGK BUR9EQP all the way around.
i can also hear the fuel pump. man, is the bosch 044 loud. need to fill up the tank and run the pump to check for fuel leaks next.
noticed my PFC commander did not turn on when i turned on the ignition. had to pull the passenger side carpeting again and recheck the wiring. i first tested it by plugging the commander directly to the PFC, bypassing the Datalogit. commander came alive so at least i knew it was working. plugged in the Datalogit again and all is good now. luckily wasn't sold a dud PFC/commander (was a bit worried here cause i bought it years ago in preparation for this swap).
and my list again:
-fill gas and test for leaks
-fill coolant and check for leaks
-figure something out as a coolant tank
-bleed clutch
-bleed brakes
-install front seat
-tune PFC
my 4 NGK BUR9EQP spark plugs arrived last week so installed them this weekend. i also installed the driver seat while i was in the garage.
attempted to follow instructions on setting the throttle body but not much i could do since the throttle body i have pretty much has all things disconnected. i did set the tps to make sure it was reading correct voltage. this took a bit longer than expected cause i could not get it to read within spec. thought it was due to bad tps so swapped it out for another i had. that also wasn't reading within spec so thought it may be due to throttle body so swapped that out as well. come to find out, it was due to the throttle cable. it was ever so slight a little too tight so finally got that sorted out and now within correct specs.
last night i also filled my 5 gallon gas can up with 2 stroke and 87 octane.
and my list again:
-fill gas and test for leaks
-fill coolant and check for leaks
-figure something out as a coolant tank
-bleed clutch
-bleed brakes
-tune PFC
yeah but i keep finding things that aren't on the list!
put fuel in the tank and ran the pump. haven't climbed under the car to check there but i know i have a small leak on the feed to the secondary rail. will need to take that apart and replace the 2 copper washers (hopefully the hardware store has the right size). also noticed that my fuel pressure gauge shows no pressure (needle doesn't move). not sure if it's a bad gauge or fpr or how to go about testing them. these are new parts so not sure why one would fail. i would assume the gauge would fail before the fpr as fpr's are pretty bullet proof from what i've read.
i think i figured out the issue with the FPR and gauge. i was trying to use the adjustment screw on the FPR to see if i could increase pressure but noticed that it did absolutely nothing. the adjustment screw simply rotated freely, without any give or resistance. took the screw out and noticed something funny. the screw wasn't long enough to reach the internals of the FPR. here u can see i put a mini screwdriver down the adjustment hole:
here's the adjustment screw next to the mini screwdriver, top lined up to top of FPR:
i also confirmed i could build pressure by pushing down on the mini screwdriver. seems like the FPR i got missed product inspection. time to drop by the hardware store and see if i can find a similar longer screw. else, need to contact FueLab and see if they'll sell me the hardware.
on a similar note, i was able to check under the car for fuel leaks and found one at the outlet side of the fuel pump. tightened that up and done. for the leak i found earlier by the secondary rail, i simply removed the copper washers, heated them up on our gas stove, and put it back in. we are now leak free! so another thing off my list.
and my list again:
-fill coolant and check for leaks
-figure something out as a coolant tank
-bleed clutch
-bleed brakes
-tune PFC
Getting close my friend... hope to see her at DGRR.
Im in the same boat as you trying to juggle work and family... there's only so many hours in a day. You got it bro!
hoping to make it but still not sure. tuning is going to be my problem in terms of getting there this year.
so i called fuelab and it seems i'm missing a piece on my FPR. there is some sort of billet piece with a ball that should sit on top of the spring inside the FPR. if this piece was in place, i would not be able to stick a screwdriver down into it but instead see a ball from that hole up top. they are shipping me this piece so once i get it, hopefully that will be the end of the fuel system.
Got the little bullet piece from Fuelab, as well as at-shirt! Here's what I was missing. Once installed, I was able to set fuel pressure where I wanted. I still have a leak from the pressure side of the fuel pump. I can't get to the fitting with the pump installed so will need to remove the fuel
pump to get to it.
I also wanted to confirm my pulley timing mark was correct. What I did was take a known FC pulley, install it on my extra REW motor with the timing set at 20* ATDC and noted where the pointer was on the FC pulley. Then transferred that to my FD pulley. The difference between the FD pointer and the 12A pointer on each of the front covers is 20*. I could not find this information any where. I should probably make a post about it for other people. That way, they can simply mark their pulley that way if they don't have an extra REW laying around.
verified my fuel pump wiring is correct but the fuel pump was not running while the key was in the START position. finally traced the problem to 1C on the PFC. On the X-07 connector, there are 2 wires that are BR, one thin and one thicker wire. i had initially used the thin BR wire but it was not providing +12v on START. i confirmed the thicker BR wire does provide +12v on START and so used that for 1C. fuel pump now works as it should. fixed the fuel leaks from the fuel pump as well as from the fuel filter so now i can truly say fuel system is done!
next is cooling system. i noticed some coolant leaks after filling it up. currently am using the exposed type worm clamps but have ordered the lined version for silicone hoses so waiting on that.
clutch has been bled so that's off the list as well.
and my list again:
-fill coolant and check for leaks
-figure something out as a coolant tank
-bleed brakes
-tune PFC
i'm unhappy to say that i'm 99% sure i am not going to make DGRR this year. although the car is almost ready to fire, there is still tuning which i won't get to before DGRR. and work now has me busy and can't take the days off to even come up to attend w/o a rotary powered vehicle (project is on a pretty tight schedule and will require me full time).
i'm unhappy to say that i'm 99% sure i am not going to make DGRR this year. although the car is almost ready to fire, there is still tuning which i won't get to before DGRR. and work now has me busy and can't take the days off to even come up to attend w/o a rotary powered vehicle (project is on a pretty tight schedule and will require me full time).
Got a new battery for the car. A 51R, so it's much smaller and lighter than the stock one. Made a tray out of scrap aluminum I had as well as tie downs for it. Bought the battery from Walmart for a little over $100 and has a 5 year warranty, first 3 years is free replacement. I'll probably get a Ctek charger as well to maintain it since I won't be driving it often.
you could get some black plastisol and dip those brackets and they'll look almost stockish. Plastisol is a rubber type compound too so they'd also be non-conductive.
and she lives!!! need to play around with the idle a bit more and take out fuel as it's idling around 11 according to my wideband. initial fireup was easy...it cranked right over and ran with my foot on the pedal. kept dieing with foot off. adjusted the AAS and it helped a bit but adjusting the TAS is what kept it from dieing. but she runs.
need to swap out the coolant cap assembly to a 2nd gen version as the one i have doesn't seem to allow coolant to go to the overflow. but easy fix...i just need to dig through my parts.
first time uploading a video so let's see if this works:
alright, after a few weeks fighting w/ a tranny problem (would not come out of gear due to faulty pressure plate), i finally resolved it by getting a new Exedy Stage 1 HD clutch kit. now to put things back together and hopefully get it moving under its own power.
04-04-17, 11:26 AM
Big thumbs-up!
