Ptrhahn's Silver 93 Track/Street Build
Thanks for the info Peter. Those are good leads. Follow up question - did you install the rebar for the urethane bumper? Heard they sag over time if there is no rebar. Thanks as always.
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From: Arlington, VA
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From: FL-->NJ/NYC again!
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The lip is proving to be a pain because the instructions to reshape it are to "have your bodyshop place it in a heated paint booth at 110 degrees for 15-20 minutes". Which would be easy for a body part you were having painted, but it's not so easy to find a shop to just toss a random part in for you for nothing or a nominal charge if you aren't having other work done there. A flat ship option would be a good idea.
Thankfully, my guy at D&V Autobody who did my sunroof shave agreed to hook me up.
Thankfully, my guy at D&V Autobody who did my sunroof shave agreed to hook me up.
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Looks like the guys at D&V were able to straighten it out, so I'm going to try and test for with the lip spacer this weekend to see if I need to cut a new one specifically for this lip.
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Update:
Unfortunately, the upper mounting surface of the AutoEXE lip isn't exactly the same as the OE '99, so I'll need to design and cut a new lip spacer for it.
You can also see that, while the brake duct inlets are smaller, the lip overall is deeper and taller, and flat on the bottom meaning it should create more downforce and allow easy clean mounting of a splitter or flat-bottom panel in the future.
Unfortunately, the upper mounting surface of the AutoEXE lip isn't exactly the same as the OE '99, so I'll need to design and cut a new lip spacer for it.
You can also see that, while the brake duct inlets are smaller, the lip overall is deeper and taller, and flat on the bottom meaning it should create more downforce and allow easy clean mounting of a splitter or flat-bottom panel in the future.
Subscribed.
You know, I had a nice post with questions and compliments and suggestions for your desire to replace the Power FC’s ugly commander. But, alas my post disappeared some how.
In short, your car is almost exactly what I envision my car to be one day and I am enjoying your build. Read every post.
Reach out to Mr. Revit, he’s been developing a slick looking gauge/data interface for his FD’s PFC. I met him at a local meet and he’s a nice guy who just wants to make something for the community, last I spoke to him he isn’t even trying to monetize it.
Check out this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/interior-ext...ystem-1082332/
Keep up the good work dude!
Nick
You know, I had a nice post with questions and compliments and suggestions for your desire to replace the Power FC’s ugly commander. But, alas my post disappeared some how.
In short, your car is almost exactly what I envision my car to be one day and I am enjoying your build. Read every post.
Reach out to Mr. Revit, he’s been developing a slick looking gauge/data interface for his FD’s PFC. I met him at a local meet and he’s a nice guy who just wants to make something for the community, last I spoke to him he isn’t even trying to monetize it.
Check out this thread: https://www.rx7club.com/interior-ext...ystem-1082332/
Keep up the good work dude!
Nick
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Thanks man... I appreciate it! I've got some really interesting stuff in the works right now.
I checked out that thread, and that's what I'm looking for, the guy could take my money now if it were a kit. The same is true of the Raspexi Viewer stuff. I'm just too stupid to set that up for myself, I'd need it all set up so I could almost literally just install and plug it in.
I checked out that thread, and that's what I'm looking for, the guy could take my money now if it were a kit. The same is true of the Raspexi Viewer stuff. I'm just too stupid to set that up for myself, I'd need it all set up so I could almost literally just install and plug it in.
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So, bringing my thread up to date I went in to install the new homebrewed oil nozzles, and decided to pull the rubber spacer out of the rear rotor to look for blockages. I wished I'd come up with my test idea first, as once I dug the rubber spacer out of there, I could see all sorts of black rubber crud in the "screwdriver slot" on the brass jet, and once I dug THAT out could see it was definitely in the hole. No idea if I did it, or it was already done, but I figured out a way to test it with a blown nozzle, as bolt spacer, and a mityvac. I could build over 25 psi of vacuum, where as the front rotor would just pull air.
I needed to devise a tool to burrow the crud out of there, which turned out to be a hex shank drill bit, with a finger-turn attachment. All clear now, so I just need to wait for the new o-ring/spacer top come in.
I needed to devise a tool to burrow the crud out of there, which turned out to be a hex shank drill bit, with a finger-turn attachment. All clear now, so I just need to wait for the new o-ring/spacer top come in.
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Well, the little booger showed up last night, so I can try and put this car back together. If you ever wanted to see one, here it is in all it's glory.
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Update for posterity: The new OE spacer/donut disintigrated on install, and reclogged the passageway. Even though I oiled it before installing, and was super careful, as soon as I installed the nozzle, air would not flow through it... and the last few turns of the nozzle were tighter than I've noticed previously.Once I pulled the nozzle back out, I could seen shreds of rubber in the threads, and after several attempts and cleaning it up and reseating it, it was destroyed on removal, and I had to unclog both the brass fitting and the nozzle.
Pretty ridiculous. The only thing I can determine is that these are super delicate and prone to falling apart, and it takes very little to clog it all up. Basically, if you use a mityvac on a good nozzle, you should be able to push air into the chamber without building up any pressure... if you see pressure on the gauge, or hear the "pop" when you pull off the line, it's not flowing. Same for vaccum with a broken nozzle (check valve)... if it builds up vacuum, you've got more wrong than the check valve itself.
I'm going to just try the new nozzles with the rear housing having no donut in it. I can't imagine it makes a huge difference, since I don't believe the housings these cars came with originally had them.
Pretty ridiculous. The only thing I can determine is that these are super delicate and prone to falling apart, and it takes very little to clog it all up. Basically, if you use a mityvac on a good nozzle, you should be able to push air into the chamber without building up any pressure... if you see pressure on the gauge, or hear the "pop" when you pull off the line, it's not flowing. Same for vaccum with a broken nozzle (check valve)... if it builds up vacuum, you've got more wrong than the check valve itself.
I'm going to just try the new nozzles with the rear housing having no donut in it. I can't imagine it makes a huge difference, since I don't believe the housings these cars came with originally had them.
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From: Arlington, VA
Got the car back on the ground and running again, with the custom oil nozzles. I also got some 2mm clear silicon tubing for the air intake lines so I can easily see if they are puking any oil without it getting all over everything. They are plumbed to the filler neck with a y fitting to a 1/4" line.
Got the car back on the ground and running again, with the custom oil nozzles. I also got some 2mm clear silicon tubing for the air intake lines so I can easily see if they are puking any oil without it getting all over everything. They are plumbed to the filler neck with a y fitting to a 1/4" line.
Very interested to find out if you're issue is finally solved. I hope so..
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My filler neck was made out of a metal cosmo filler neck... my old builder cut it up and welded a -10 fitting on the front, and it had a leftover 1/4" outlet on the side that I just had capped off for years. Lucky me, it finally has a use. So far so good on the street, but I won't really know till i can get some prolonged boost pulls on the track.
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First track day of the year. Porsche Club at VIR. Didn't get the whole weekend in due to rain, but got to hang with track homies Fritz and Ramon, though neither had an RX7.
I held the fort down ok. Everything held together fine, besides a small crack in a rear brake rotor. I started out running consistent 2:04s, and then whittled it down to a 2:02.29, and running 3s in traffic.
The only new parts on the car where the homemade/upgraded oil injectors, which seemed to have survived the weekend. I may produce these for the community.
I held the fort down ok. Everything held together fine, besides a small crack in a rear brake rotor. I started out running consistent 2:04s, and then whittled it down to a 2:02.29, and running 3s in traffic.
The only new parts on the car where the homemade/upgraded oil injectors, which seemed to have survived the weekend. I may produce these for the community.
Last edited by ptrhahn; May 27, 2018 at 10:43 PM.
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Here's the best video I got. Didn't capture the 2:02, or any 2:03s, but here are two 2:04s, book-ending some traffic laps. the first one is a 2:04.3 chasing down a 991 GT3 on Hoosiers.
I think you’re more optimistic of my skills than me! I was thinking my goal would be 2:04s for the first time at VIR but I guess I better re-up my IRacing subscription and start practicing!








