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Update:
Had a local shop install the new upgrade clutch slave cylinder, huge improvement. No more janky pickup issues, or toughness getting in first gear at lights.
I also had them install a new (AI One) fuel sending unit, and input voltages in the Haltech. No improvement unfortunately. The level consistently drops as you drive, and doesn't recover. I went from 66% to 14% on a 20 minute drive home. Not sure what really to try now. Paging @R-R-Rx7 for any insight.
Update:
Had a local shop install the new upgrade clutch slave cylinder, huge improvement. No more janky pickup issues, or toughness getting in first gear at lights.
I also had them install a new (AI One) fuel sending unit, and input voltages in the Haltech. No improvement unfortunately. The level consistently drops as you drive, and doesn't recover. I went from 66% to 14% on a 20 minute drive home. Not sure what really to try now. Paging @R-R-Rx7 for any insight.
Pete, I've also had challenges integrating my fuel level input in the AIM Dash. The biggest improvement was making sure all of the grounding points at the pump assembly had super-clean grounding contacts. That got me from a "C" accuracy to maybe a "B". Also wondering if the stock systems have a time filter built in to smooth out the output.
My setup is probably different altogether since the voltage (using the iron canyon Motorsports fuel level conditioner) goes directly as an input into the pdm. It works perfectly. @Carlos Iglesias what signal conditioner are you using? The ICM was highly recommended from AIM as the one with the most consistent results.
even though we discussed this issue on messenger
i do suspect that your floating sending unit is somehow stuck in the tank. It might get unstuck during a fill up but you might have the same issue once the level drops
thankfully i get consistent results every time i fill up and this has allowed me to build a very good scale.
it seems that iron canyon Motorsport may have shut down for good which it is unfortunate
I would try bench testing it. Remove the fuel pump fuse, take assembly out of the tank, and then move the level sender while watching the gauge. That will tell you whether it's a mechanica/getting stuck issue or electronic.
I would try bench testing it. Remove the fuel pump fuse, take assembly out of the tank, and then move the level sender while watching the gauge. That will tell you whether it's a mechanica/getting stuck issue or electronic.
They actually did that when they installed the new one. Normally I'd say 100% its getting stuck, but this is somewhat the problem i was having with Haltech/IC7 in the first place... level would be different with key on vs. started (about 10%), and level would drop more than is logical while driving, only to return upon shutoff (sometimes, sometimes not).
Hope I didnt miss it, but please tell us more about the upgraded slave cylinder. The struggle getting into first gear from a stop has been a long time complaint of mine. I always attributed it to an underperforming pilot bearing.
Spring is around the corner, hoping to see some more videos of your car soon.
Last edited by ArmenMAxx; Feb 22, 2023 at 12:35 PM.
I have an ICM that I bought for the RX8 that I’m not anticipating needing now. I’d need to verify your full tank signal ohms requirement to determine if it’s compatible.
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Two updates. The bad one first. I had the car out to a Cars & Coffee, and as I'm pulling in, and going through the first row looking for parking, following a RHD MR2. There was nothing in the row, so we got to the end and stopped to wait to turn down to the next one, and the dude inexplicably puts it in reverse and backs into me like I'm not there! Busted the signal, cracked one of my custom oil cooler ducts, and flexed the urathane bumper enough to spider web the paint. His insurance will cover it, but it'll be a bit till I can get it painted right. ******* lame. What an absolute ding dong. But, in the end it'll be better for it.
Second update, I finally got around to installing the A.I. One dash enclosure, to get rid of the poor-fitting 94-textured one I had. This thing isn't factory perfect fit wise, but it's very close, and injection molded so it'll stay nice. It came in "93 finish" but it's more satin like the original OE panels. The new replacements I have from Mazda are all very matte. I have paint that matches it, and thought about painting it, but I couldn't do it. It's so nice, the finish seems durable, and I'm not a great painter. If it really bothers me it was actually pretty easy to pull and do again. I also got a 3D-printed blank for the cruise control button, and installed a threaded insert for a 1/4-20 post, for RAM mounts, camera mounts, etc. so I can mount my AIM Solo, iPhone, GoPro, or whatever do it. Super tidy.
While I was at it I also made a DIY shorty passenger floor mat, by measuring and trimming the mat, and then singing the edge with a lighter so it won't fray. Now it shows off the Sakebomb foot rest. The interior is coming along nicely, just a few more details here and there, and it'll be done. It has a nice, understated all-business look with a few nice carbon and alcantara details.
Hi Peter, perhaps I missed it, but would you happen to have any information on what you used and how to seal the holes left by the remote damper reservoir in the vehicle?
I also made a Kydex backing plate to keep the hose centered, as the rubber alone isn't enough. Check @Carlos Iglesias thread as he borrowed the setup, and I'm pretty sure did a nice writeup. However, if I had to do it again I'd have plumped for the Staubli quick disconnects, and cut a much smaller hole.
I was looking at these for hydraulic clutch throwout bearing lines; Ti and rated for 5100 psi. They offer an aluminum version too, but not seeing a rating for them. For $14 difference I’ll go with the Ti. Note that the price is for a complete assembly; both ends.
