So, I’ve replaced every plastic insert panel in my interior with the new OE replacements, but the drivers door was the only one not available, so I needed to refinish it.. just eating to dry and go back on. Here’s the stuff I used to strip and recoat. The match is really good with the new OE panels.

 

Here’s the passenger side with new insert panel, sakebomb metal handle covered in charcoal alcantera, and metal door cup.

 

Is it a whole new world on the passenger side?

 

Yeah, it’s really nice. Feels solid, and I love the alcantera. I’m not sure metal door cups are idea from a feel perspective... they’ll get hot and cold with ambient temperature, but they do give a stiffer, more hefty feel you couldn’t get with any plastic.

 

Though I’d share some details on my interior:

Charcoal alcantera center tunnel cover, headliner, a-pillars, shift and e-brake boot and passenger handle. I felt charcoal looked better than black, because the nap sucks up so much light, it’s darker than everything else. The boots have Silver accent stitching.

Joyfast Miata polished stainless shift **** and metal e-brake button. Both thread on like OEM.

Custom boost gauge. It’s a PFS with the outer lip shaved off, polished, and covered with the bezel from an auto meter gauge to replicate a factory look. Genuine RE Amemiya pod.

Berber floor mats with silver rotor embroidery.

Custom carbon fiber commander mount.

 

Also, sharp eyes may notice the use of an OE rubber radiator mount as the shift boot finisher.

 

Where did you pick up the door sills in CF?

 

Those are Ronin Speedworks versions.

 

Interior looks awesome. Love how clean everything is!

 

YEP!

Pete's car is really close to what a singer FD would be. Add in some comfy seats, AC and a nice stereo and it's the perfect street/track car. Maybe a quieter muffler too LOL

 

Thanks guys!

I tried to keep it fairly simple. Do a few tasteful things, and do them well. You can really go down a rabbit hole (as Gordon knows!) on the interior, and end up with a ton of work and cost.

If I go much further and start taking out the dash, carpet, or bins, it gets expensive, complicated, and potentially a lot of down time unless I’ve got doubles of everything.

Only thing I’d really like to get rid of is the commander. A double din touchscreen stereo or tablet with gauge app would be perfect.

 

In keeping with this weeks theme, I got my metal dead pedal yesterday. I went with the raw, unblasted finish since it looks cool and my pedals are polished from use anyway.

 

A little glitter in the foot well. NICE!

 

They are great—only reason I didn't get a gas pedal is because I love the Widefoot setup (and its practically a collectot's item), and we couldn't be assured that the stock-style drivers would definitely fit it, while the "wide" drivers pedal disn't seem wide enough.

 

Very nice. Who did the Alcantara work and how long did the have it?

 

Thanks! The shift and e-brake boots are from Redline, and the headliner, tunnel, a-pillars, and passenger door handle were done by ESH Upholstery.

 

Here's a sneak preview of a new product I'l be trying out. A urathane replica Auto EXE lip. I've always wanted to try a more aggressive lip along with my lip spacer, but anything fiberglass or CF, while they look nice, will almost certainly die quickly on a street car.

 

Very interesting. Are these readily available? Any word on the weight of that thing vs a more traditional lip?

 

Bringing this topic related to the OMP back up with a question:

Have you (or anyone reading) ever heard of or contemplated the idea of modifying the OMP system to only operate during off-throttle(de-cell)? I don't know how complex that modification would be or how viable of a concept it is. But at 30kft, one could leave pre-mix to handle on-throttle and the OMP handle off-throttle..?

 

Yes, they are available (along with '99 bumpers and OE style lips) at KBD Bodykits.

I'll post more once I get it ho,me and mess with it. It's definitely heavier, but its also very robust feeling... I was actually worried it would be soft and floppy (that's what she said). It also may have a slightly different profile on the flat mounting surface, so I may need to tweak the lip spacer shape. I've been trying to convince the guy at KBD to make a version that basically has the lip spacer built in as a seamless unit. Maybe if enough people were interested, we could convince him.

P

 

I am going to try the modified oil squirters (a few posts back) first, before I think about McGuyvering the OMP function. I THINK that, even with the check valve broken, the motor should be sucking in oil under vacuum (decel) right now.

P

 

Hey Peter. Looking good! A side question - what front bumper are you running? How do you like it? I ask because a lady backed into my car over last weekend and cracked my Pettit 99 spec bumper and it's no longer made so I am looking for another, best solution. I know you are picky with your components. Thanks!

 

interested in seeing how this fits.

 

Hey David, thanks! Yup... fiberglass bumpers on a street car are a loser. I don't know how people do it with aftermarket ones that hang lower and are not protected by a flexible lip like the OEM style.

I got my urathane bumper in the original Rotary Extreme group buy years ago... that mold floated around a long time, I'm not sure who has it. It fits decently with some work, but certainly not OEM like. A couple options for you:

These guys make a fiberglass or CF version, plateless or non, and they also make versions with a larger than stock mouth opening for more cooling with front mount intercoolers. Not everything is on the web site, so sending their Instagram... might be good for you and the 20B:

https://www.instagram.com/rusogarage/

The guys I got my new lip from also make urathane 99 bumpers, and the guy said its their own mold. You could try it:

KBD Urethane Body Kits | Polyurethane Auto Parts & Accessories

 

It might be a bit until I can mess with it... I'm likely going to have to take it to a body shop to put in a heated paint booth for a bit to straighten it back out... then I'll see how closely my lip spacer fits the contours.