When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
So far so good on the seals. And yes, pump gas and washer fluid with the WI... it's set up such that, at lower boost the WI is only triggered by EGT's, and then it's triggered full time at boost levels above the pump gas threshold.
Working on some aesthetics and details over the holiday, recovering my Sparcos and adding a fixed fire extinguisher mount and JP3 mount.
My Sparco seats, an EVO and an EVO II for the passenger, were ANCIENT, and the driver’s side was ripped and work out from getting in and out. I snagged the last two matching replacement covers from the last generation before they went QRT and reprofiled the shells. These things are BIATCH to fit, stretch on, and cut holes for the belt guides. I love the new styling though.
My seats are fixed, and I recall telling the fabricator to just put the passenger one as far back as it would go. Mistake. The rear floor bolts are almost completely covered and invisible, only loosened or tightened in tiny turns mostly be hand, and a pain to get started back in again.
Thank goodness I got the JP3 RAM mount on, it barely fit, and I wouldn’t have wanted to take that seat out a 2nd time.
With the extinguisher, I didn’t want a huge bottle or a spot that might be tough to get to quickly in an emergency or with an unconscious passenger, so I went with a quick-release roll bar mount, on the cross bar behind and between the seats. This one’s from Axia Alloys, and you can size the hoops for whatever bar/bottle combo you have (Mine’s a 1.4 lb halon unit).
I also splurged on a Formaworx black titanium key. Frivolous, but it looks and feels completely badass and I'm a sucker for great design. Rich (GoodfellaFD3S) also hooked me up with a new OEM hamdle to replace mine which finally broke.
Nice updates. I’m curious on how those seals work out as well. I’m running the RX parts seals and track occasionally.
However right now I’m curious how you like your trans with the liberty main shaft? Is it stock otherwise? I blew my trans at Buttonwillow this weekend so I’m planning for the future.
Nice updates. I’m curious on how those seals work out as well. I’m running the RX parts seals and track occasionally.
However right now I’m curious how you like your trans with the liberty main shaft? Is it stock otherwise? I blew my trans at Buttonwillow this weekend so I’m planning for the future.
thanks and keep it up!
liberty mainshaft is a must ! never blew another transmission after that where before i would constantly blow transmissions
I hope that's the case, or it's next stop: 370Z trans. It drives like any other trans. I do have an exedy twin plate that is touchy and hoping a big slave cylinder smooths that out. Install shortly.
I had the car up in the air yesterday to do some measuring for an upcoming suspension upgrade (stay tuned!), and got a chance to snap some pics of some of the upgrades, and fine @IRPerformance installation work. I'll be detailing it all as I work through. You'll see the B2A diff and trans pans, and Haltech connected trans temp hookup, new starter, relocated fuel filer (look at all the nice silicone fire sheathing wrapping on the lines, new stainless hardware everywhere that are the mark of a great shop like IRP), @SakeBomb Garage WI pump mount, and @JP3 Motorsports brake booster line and shorty throttle cable, and you can make out the dual EGTs. One thing I added since I've had it back, is a new center muffler. My old one was a skinny little thing PFS welded up at some point, and especially with the new rowdy port, it was absolutely obnoxious. Or, I've gotten old. I'm certain its the former.
In any case, I had a local shop weld in a new Magnaflow the size of Guam. This is the same muffler profile used in RX7 store, Banzai, and other off-the-shelf mid-pipes, only its 18" long, not 14". It's much quieter, especially at startup/idle, but I still wouldn't call it quiet. But I don't feel the need to slink out of my neighborhood immediately when I fire it up.
If you ever, for some crazy reason, bring your car to TX for a track event please let me know. So want to see this thing in action some day. Yours is in my top 3 for favorite cars on the forum.
Merry Christmas! I'm always creeping, but rarely post anymore. Once I'm back in the states, I'll pick my normal track time back up. That'll be a few more years though.
Using the new @JP3 Motorsports mount, I got a RAM C-to-B adapter, so I can quickly swap from a laptop mount, to a AIM solo mount. I may get an extension to push it a little higher into my field of view, but this will serve to eliminate the stealth mount I build into the dash bin, and let me use the bin again. It also goes on/off quickly, and I'm always looking for ways to shorten my track prep and how long it takes to install/uninstall everything.
I had one of those too. Great tool but I need it in my immediate field of vision so I can see the predictive delta. Easier to do in a race car than a street-ish car where one cares about aesthetics.
I moved on to the full AIM system plus smartycam last year
Are you still running the stop tech BBK? Issues with pad knock-back?
I have pretty severe knock back even with anti knockback springs and true floating hardware.
Considering to install 2psi residual valves up front.
Yes, I do get knockback. I'm not sure it's specific to StopTech really, I think it's an FD symptom. I've never tried springs or valves, but brand new wheel bearings/hubs helped at one point. It's now part of my technique before any hard braking zone to just "tap-up" the pedal with my clutch foot towards the end of the straight.
Side Note: what's needed I think are billet drop-spindle uprights that utilize the RX8-style hubs, and someone to figure out an ABS signal conversion (since the sensor is built in to the hub. I think those new designs flex less.
My car was originally configured with a GM 3-Bar map sensor I already had. This failed spectacularly at WGI, shutting the car off at 145mph on the straight. and killing the rest of the event. Fun. I was, with the help of John Renna, able to route a vac hose to the Haltech internal map sensor, and reconfig the software to use it and drive it around the rest of my trip. However, I've read that using the internal sensor may not be a great idea with water injection, as moisture contamination could happen. Enter, the Haltech motorsports grade 3-bar sensor.
The only sucky part was, it uses a Deutch connector instead of the GM plug. I entertained making a jumper or buying one, but ultimately decided I needed to sack up and re-pin it properly. I don't own a crimper, so it would need to be soldered. On the car. Without a lot of slack. After using a floor mat and my yet-uninstalled @sakebombgarage foot rest to make a makeshift solder station, I cut the old plug and went to it. Turned out pretty clean, but it's stressful to do. Imagine just dropping one of those tiny pins.
To finish it off, I noticed the Haltech sensor would fit the Sakebomb bracket, but it would point the plug and boost line straight out. Enter the Raceonly bracket made specifically for this sensor. Little booger took about a month to get here from Australia.
"...but ultimately decided I needed to sack up and re-pin it properly". Bravo and welcome to the wiring dark side... the electrical world is yours to seize sir!!
a crimp tool for the DTM pins is around 30-40$. Its not the HDT-48 quality or the DMC AF8/AFM8 equivalent but for something you to use in a non-commercial environment you will be fine.
a quick search showed this. I have seen them for around that much and there are plenty out there. i have not used any of these
I do however recommend the HDT-48 (or a DMC equivalent crimp tool) instead of this. the DT/DTM connectors are a breeze to crimp and useful pretty much everywhere so having the right tool makes things very easy
you can also get the stamped pins instead of the solid pins and the tool selection is pretty broad and cheap
