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They all crack eventually. These have been on for a few seasons. I have a full spare set plus spare rear calipers. I just didn't feel like swapping them in the heat for one last session. I've gotta get on that diff/trans cooling though.
You may want to try a cryo treated rotor. Of course Fritz probably thinks they are crap tho
YEP!!!!
Cryo treating anything is another JOKE!!!
What's not a joke. Big fat rotors but they a weigh a ton and require 18 inch wheels. I think my rotors are 13 inches which is fine (i have the brembo GT kit which is also my favorite) I buy the expensive high heat rotors from coleman racing and that's about the best you are going to do for the money.
If money wasn't an object I'd buy a super cool PFC brake kit
I got one from Banzai and was planning to install it when I swapped from the 3.90 to the 4.30 rear. Is there any way to get the cover to seal or do I have another paperweight?
As Pete mentioned it will seal fine until the fluid breaks down/gets really hot. Most track guys are not going to get the diff fluid that hot. You probably need about 5 years of intensive track time to over work the stock diff. It leaks from the drain bolt. Just couldn't get the bolt to seal on either cover and tried everything.
Of all the FDs I know of that have circled VIR very few crack 2.10 much less 2.05. Pete is one of a handful that are truly hauling ***.
For some perspective. I don't think a bone stock GT4 with a pro driver in the seat can keep up with Pete in his FD at this time.
Here's a pro driver in a GT4 running a 2.08 with DCS upgraded suspension and it was probably cooler out LOL
ptrhahn
If you aren't tracking it, you probably won't have leakage, but then again if you aren't tracking it you don't need it in the first place.
I suspect it's just a cheaper, more porous casting.
If you suspect the leaking problem with the Greddy diff cover is porosity in the casting it would be easy to apply a coating to the inside before use like oil shedding Glyptal paint.
It does look cool.
The $120 RX-8 stock diff cover with the Aluminum heat exchanger extension on the side looks even cooler though in my opinion. It won't work with the HPP diff brace though.
If you suspect the leaking problem with the Greddy diff cover is porosity in the casting it would be easy to apply a coating to the inside before use like oil shedding Glyptal paint.
It does look cool.
The $120 RX-8 stock diff cover with the Aluminum heat exchanger extension on the side looks even cooler though in my opinion. It won't work with the HPP diff brace though.
It leaks from the drain bolt.
I was smelling a little diff fluid while flowing Pete at the last event and I suspect his drain bolt on the stock cover is seeping just bit.
I'll repeat the fluid breaks down and becomes extremely thin and leaks out of the drain bolt.
If it leaks out the drain bolt when it is super thin/hot I wonder if you could substitute a wider shouldered drain bolt and then use a crush washer with slightly thicker o-ring in the middle like you would on a fuel fitting. Seal-o-stat style.
If it leaks out the drain bolt when it is super thin/hot I wonder if you could substitute a wider shouldered drain bolt and then use a crush washer with slightly thicker o-ring in the middle like you would on a fuel fitting. Seal-o-stat style.
Like this without the washer-
and this-
Never tried it but that may work.
However a little extra fluid isn't going to help you need cooler.
Fritz... Do the fins on the Greddy cover help at all?
If the fluid is overheating to the point of breaking down and leaking out of the drain bolt I'd say NO!
A diff cooler is a must IMO if you are running consistent 2.10 laps or lower at VIR or 1.22 or lower at Summit.
Here I'm driving a mostly stock FD on stock wheels with hankook c51s (245 45 16s) and ruined the diff in a weekend. Car was running 2.10 to 2.14 laps all weekend (3 days).
Now imagine an FD with another 100 HP and 275 40 17 tires or worse 285 30 18s. You are really overheating the diff, trans etc....
Again that said most people tracking this car are not going to run 2.10 laps in even a heavily modded FD. See vid and the 1st lap is a 2.10.
Yup... nothing short of a cooler/pump setup is going to help. A summer project. I think I know how I'll set it up. I'm also working on taking apart the oil nozzles and installing higher quality check valves. Parts on the way, stay tuned :-)
While the glue is drying it was time for a little street to go with the track. Finally installed my charcoal alcantera headliner from Austin.
Definitely need to get him to do the visors too, but In addition to looking great with the alcantera pillars and center tunnel, im hoping it'll help with sound a bit.
fyi - Shpnout's Pettit built race car has diff and trans coolers iirc
It's funny, I know people have them but there's very little info or pictures. I'm surprised how many installs I see (other cars) inside the interior in the spare tire well. I could do it but I have an issue with that and all the fuel surge tanks I see in the trunk. To me that's a no go unless you've got some sort of rear firewall, which is not really feasible in a street car.
So here's the test fit. I was hoping they would sit closer to the center by the diff, but the subframe to chassis brace gets in the way. It's less in the way the further left you go.
This is about as high as it'll mount, which would make it about as low as the lowest point on the subframe, or the plastic fuel like cover louvers. I don't want to run over anything and rip them out. I may have to split them apart and mount in two different places.
06-01-17, 04:17 PM
