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Yes sir haha. Definitely thinking to do 5 inch downpipe to 4 inch full exhaust. Then off the side of the downpipe. Y pipe it off to a 4inch cut out and exit through the fender like you said! Would be best to do 5inch cut out but damn I dont think theres room for that and have a downpipe/full exhaust
Be careful of running such a high base fuel pressure, not all fuel injectors can handle opening against that much pressure. I know someone who tunes a few fast Honda drag cars and he has encountered misfires when trying high base fuel pressure, those were solved by turning the base pressure back down to what they usually ran.
Are you planning to have a fan on the rear mounted charge cooler? NACA ducts are a good way to get airflow without paying huge drag penalties, but a fan will really help the heat exchanger work well. As for duct size, it's been years but I think the engineering texts said the duct opening should be 60-70% the area of the heat exchanger. About 30% of the heat exchanger surface is fins.
thank you. Yes 1 fan and 1 Naca duct directly ducted onto the core. Then a 2nd naca duct without an air hose, just to allow air into the hatch
yea just going to stick to 80-85psi base, the injector manufacture ratings allow for 110psi
+1
I only have experience with the Waterman pumps and e85 (engine dyno application) but they need to be rebuilt after 10s of hours. Hard to imagine they would be appropriate for a vehicle.
hmm that's interesting. Waterman engineer on phone said it sounds like a great idea for once or twice a week street use / racing use. Hes seen neglected alcohol sprint cars go for years and pumps still do fine
cut the **** out of the 99 spec bumper for a 3rd oil cooler, making a sick *** grill right now for it. We're almost finished with the tube front end. Fully removable. 10000x stronger than 99 spec rebar. I can stand on this ************ on the nose, on the abs bumper and its unbelievable sturdy. Body lines are better than they were the oem framing. Now onto cutting of the rear hatch, lexan install, firewall building, etc. Then plastidip and jdm yo stickers
So, what's your plan for the large hole where the license plate used to be that's now occupied by your third oil cooler. How about a screen cover approximately the same size as the license plate with a hydrographic of the Japanese plate printed onto the screen? Just a thought. Crazy changes to an already badass build. Can't wait to see the end result.
So, what's your plan for the large hole where the license plate used to be that's now occupied by your third oil cooler. How about a screen cover approximately the same size as the license plate with a hydrographic of the Japanese plate printed onto the screen? Just a thought. Crazy changes to an already badass build. Can't wait to see the end result.
**** yes bro thats a killer idea. Going to try that! !!!!!!!! How bout like a honeycomb or perforated round staggered mesh, nice and tight profile like 1/8" holes, painted black and riv-nut into place at 4 corners with finishing washers and maybe some weatherstripping around it as a border. Then paint the mesh black, and the stencil / white paint for RX-7 like the commonly used plates!?
Oil temps are fine when moving on highway speeds. But if you rev really hard and keep it in high rpm for a while, the temps creep up over 215F. I figured we could maximize the license plate area and help take out some heat on the oil system
Rear cooler is the water-to-air charge cooler. The new radiator is thick, and moved all the way up to the bumper to make room for the larger turbo, so there's very little room for a front mounted heat exchanger
Trying to decide now if should leave it flush, or pitch the rear down a few inches, and build ducting downwards to meet the cooler to create more of a vaccuum. I feel like overall this core wont require much airflow to function adequately as compared to a radiator/oil cooler. The water will not be super hot, there's 2 other cores behind the seats helping the situation, and there will be a fan on one side of the core, and 2 naca ducts feeding the other side of the core, pulling air from the top of the lexan / roof line. Flush mounting looks awesome, and will look killer with the metal grate and weather stripping painted gloss black, but is it effective enough vs pitching the rear and building a duct to meet the recessed core
Planning to switch to e85 so this should help intake temp concerns as well
That headlight flush-i-ness is beautiful work. Really this whole thing in general is beautiful work. Keep it up, it makes me not want to cut corners on my build! Also I'm not sure if your Formula(7) is the same but I like your previous statements about the idea of not building the car to anything specific. If your not building a specific race car for a specific series then just build it, rip, and have fun. It seems a lot of people forget that when it come to building cars sometimes.
That headlight flush-i-ness is beautiful work. Really this whole thing in general is beautiful work. Keep it up, it makes me not want to cut corners on my build! Also I'm not sure if your Formula(7) is the same but I like your previous statements about the idea of not building the car to anything specific. If your not building a specific race car for a specific series then just build it, rip, and have fun. It seems a lot of people forget that when it come to building cars sometimes.
thank you, i really appreciate the words,
Yea man, many times we are paralyzed by fear of ruining the value or wanting to hold onto previous rare pieces like door panel etc. I've always wanted to do things like cut out the rear hatch, try new ideas, cut the front bumper etc. Its great to get past that fear and have fun finally
Big ******* regulator, this thing is ridiculous, trying to figure out where to put it.
Decided to sump the OEM fuel tank with a 12an feed line to the pump so that we wont have to do a rear firewall
Apex seals are in, and new wicked oil pan with trap doors / baffling to replace the PPRE trash
haha can't wait
chassis work is almost finished up, in a few days the front end tubing will be sent off for powdercoating. The paint has a few scratches and imperfections from the last paint job, and my buddy has a booth here. Went ahead and ordered some PPG DBC9700 and 1.5 gallons of clear. Why not repaint it, just to be ridiculous. So ill repaint it around June 1. Then we'll drop the motor and send it over to Walker Morgan for the new manifold
Very cool you can and are taking this project so far. So few people ever find themselves in a position where they even could, let alone actually do it. Good for you, enjoying what you love.
So in jest and recognition of what must have been and continue to be an astronomical expense - I'll say that if it were possible to use gif files on license plates, this is what I envision for your car lol
Very cool you can and are taking this project so far. So few people ever find themselves in a position where they even could, let alone actually do it. Good for you, enjoying what you love.
So in jest and recognition of what must have been and continue to be an astronomical expense - I'll say that if it were possible to use gif files on license plates, this is what I envision for your car lol
hahahahahaha
thanks alot sir
yes I'm basically going to be buried in this car at this point. I crossed the point of economical responsibility a long time ago. It reaches a point where you either sell it all or you go double to nothing to recover your loss by burning yourself out of the money pit lol.
thanks for keeping up. Hopefully some more updates coming soon!
All 3 oil coolers finally mounted, tow hook mounted, and lights mounted. Now we will weld the splitter rods onto the bash bar and remove the bash bar to clean up the edges, gusset, etc. Then off to powdercoating
04-29-18, 12:41 PM
