The Monsterbox 4 Rotor
#1577
#1578
considering removing the hi beam sleek light and drilling a duct through the lexan cover, to feed air directly towards the turbine/downpipe
#1580
The Ancient
Right now you may still have the undertray on? In any case, there is some real high pressure under the car. You could design some ducting to get air from under the motor up cooling the turbo. I think you have enough venting in the hood to exhaust the air?
#1582
Eats, Sleeps, Dreams Rotary
iTrader: (10)
So David, is the plan to have your WG dump pipes exit the hood just in front of your compressor housing (i.e., approximately over the letters "ett" in the word GARRETT)? Is that what the hole drawn on the blue painters tape is for? You've gone this far with the "ultimate" build, you should really consider spending a few more shillings for Inconel heat shielding for your Turbine housing, manifold, DP and WG dump tubes. Got mine at the link shown below. Their alloy racing covers are incredible. Great customer service!
Advanced Thermal Products
Advanced Thermal Products
#1583
So David, is the plan to have your WG dump pipes exit the hood just in front of your compressor housing (i.e., approximately over the letters "ett" in the word GARRETT)? Is that what the hole drawn on the blue painters tape is for? You've gone this far with the "ultimate" build, you should really consider spending a few more shillings for Inconel heat shielding for your Turbine housing, manifold, DP and WG dump tubes. Got mine at the link shown below. Their alloy racing covers are incredible. Great customer service!
Advanced Thermal Products
Advanced Thermal Products
yea same idea with the tubes,
they do not get hot, you'd think they get really hot, they really dont. You can do a pull on the dyno and still be able to touch them directly after, lightly. Would have to be some really hard load to seriously heat soak the dump tubes,
Planning to build a heatshield between the intake manifold and the downpipe out of stainless sheet metal, with insulation on either side, and phenolic spacers between the shield and the fuel rail. Downpipe will be wrapped, and blanket will go on the turbine. I just can't justify the funds for the inconel stuff at this time, until after the car is tuned and running hard and great then we come back and revisit.
Thank you !
#1585
The Ancient
Keeps on being awesome, Zach. Do you have any worries at all about heat? That turbo sticking out of the hood reminds me of some girls I've known who busted out of their bras.
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RGHTBrainDesign (08-11-18)
#1593
The best thing about the 4 rotor is it's sound. Nothing sounds better or louder than an uncorked, full tilt, rotary engine. One thing I'm often criticized for is my frequent amount of free-revving of this engine. There's one local who's even gone so far as to post all of social media that the engine blew up from too much free-revving. So I want to extend me gratitude for his attention and care, and dedicate this **** off blast pipe to all of those who hate the free rev. We welcome the free rev 2018
Can't wait to get this thing running. The countdown begins!
Last edited by Monsterbox; 08-16-18 at 12:15 PM.
#1594
The best thing about the 4 rotor is it's sound. Nothing sounds better or louder than an uncorked, full tilt, rotary engine. One thing I'm often criticized for is my frequent amount of free-revving of this engine. There's one local who's even gone so far as to post all of social media that the engine blew up from too much free-revving. So I want to extend me gratitude for his attention and care, and dedicate this **** off blast pipe to all of those who hate the free rev. We welcome the free rev 2018
Can't wait to get this thing running. The countdown begins!
#1595
There's no way to run a 5inch full exhaust, and the amount of energy developed by this engine and turbo, especially with the overlap, really needs free flowing exhaust. If you can't run a full 5inch the only way is a cut-out. Going through the fender was an easy choice.
I'm making a stainless or titanium sheet metal heatshield between the intake runners and the downpipe/manifold. And I may swain-coat the downpipe.
I'm opposed to wrapping these days, as I find it an unnecessary risk, any fuel or oil leak would soak onto the wrap and pose fire hazard.
Additionally its running e85, has a much larger condensor for intake, and larger radiator. So we'll have to see how she does! I'm amped about it!
#1598
Built Not Bought
iTrader: (14)
Yeah. I don't think it's a big deal. You have several heat exchangers and lots of vents. It'll be fine. It's not like they are big cast components. A little shielding will help too.
I can't remember where I saw it, but I think there are machines aluminum fuel rails that have fins machines into them to act as heat sinks. Might be something to consider.
I can't remember where I saw it, but I think there are machines aluminum fuel rails that have fins machines into them to act as heat sinks. Might be something to consider.
#1599
Yeah. I don't think it's a big deal. You have several heat exchangers and lots of vents. It'll be fine. It's not like they are big cast components. A little shielding will help too.
I can't remember where I saw it, but I think there are machines aluminum fuel rails that have fins machines into them to act as heat sinks. Might be something to consider.
I can't remember where I saw it, but I think there are machines aluminum fuel rails that have fins machines into them to act as heat sinks. Might be something to consider.
It would be cool to take a 5.5 inch diameter pipe, cut it in half, and orient it between the intake and the downpipe, and weld it to where its stands off of the downpipe by 1/4inch or something, but beyond that its kind of hard to fit much else in there besides as you suggested a little shielding like maybe an aluminum plate.
Thats a good idea on the rails, they do get cookin'! Hopefully mechanical fuel pump will drop electrical heat from the return flow, and going to use phenolic spacers between rails and intake which hopefully will help a little.