The Monsterbox 4 Rotor
12-07-17, 09:19 AM
#1376
Updates on car:
14psi springs arrived. Swapping out to the 14's this weekend. Moving the third fuel pump to its own DPO so we can stage it as needed, as it appears it won't ever be needed again unless we run e85 lol. Stepping up the methanol injector from the 14 gallon/per hour 880cc/min to the 25GPH 2,000cc/min nozzle. Swapping in the 7420-10's gapped down to 0.018. Adding a ground wire from where coils ground to the starter, and routing it back to the battery directly. The car's also putting out over 17 volts now with the fuel issue resolved, need to readjust the regulator, too much juice
Then it's time to give it a go in 4th gear. Going to throw in some 116 octane, turn off the water meth, and dial it in around 14-16psi. Then add back in the water meth, but use the new VE fuel correction table, triggered by the fuel pressure sensor input on methanol line. Get this little thing working so it pulls fuel only while meth is spraying. Then we'll watch the EGT's in response to pulling fuel/adding methanol, and find the sweet spot whether thats 11.0, 11.5 AFR etc. As long as EGT's aren't climbing above where they are currently, and car cleans up in ignition, then we go back to 93 octane and all is primo. If not, then its time for the M&W big boy box, and at that point we might as well go e85
Picked up some serious camera equipment which is on the way for the youtube channel. From here, you're going to have 4k 60fps videos, external fed filtered microphone, and realnews.
14psi springs arrived. Swapping out to the 14's this weekend. Moving the third fuel pump to its own DPO so we can stage it as needed, as it appears it won't ever be needed again unless we run e85 lol. Stepping up the methanol injector from the 14 gallon/per hour 880cc/min to the 25GPH 2,000cc/min nozzle. Swapping in the 7420-10's gapped down to 0.018. Adding a ground wire from where coils ground to the starter, and routing it back to the battery directly. The car's also putting out over 17 volts now with the fuel issue resolved, need to readjust the regulator, too much juice
Then it's time to give it a go in 4th gear. Going to throw in some 116 octane, turn off the water meth, and dial it in around 14-16psi. Then add back in the water meth, but use the new VE fuel correction table, triggered by the fuel pressure sensor input on methanol line. Get this little thing working so it pulls fuel only while meth is spraying. Then we'll watch the EGT's in response to pulling fuel/adding methanol, and find the sweet spot whether thats 11.0, 11.5 AFR etc. As long as EGT's aren't climbing above where they are currently, and car cleans up in ignition, then we go back to 93 octane and all is primo. If not, then its time for the M&W big boy box, and at that point we might as well go e85
Picked up some serious camera equipment which is on the way for the youtube channel. From here, you're going to have 4k 60fps videos, external fed filtered microphone, and realnews.
Last edited by Monsterbox; 12-07-17 at 09:23 AM.
12-07-17, 02:57 PM
#1378
And now with no further ado, bringing you real rotary news in this world of dakness, shining through the suffocating fake atmosphere of social insecurities and nonrunning cars is nobody other than the boost ragin' rotatin' feelin hurtin' v8 draggin' sequential 17V no limit intercontinental ballistic sriracha walrus fouRE rotor take no prisoner master of real news, David Monsterbox Mazzei. He's on that storage unit grind and he's coming in hot so you better batten down the hatches, sinch up your skinnies and prepare for blastoff. If you are fake news, full of it, easily offended or lame...you might not make it.
12-10-17, 02:46 AM
#1381
And now with no further ado, bringing you real rotary news in this world of dakness, shining through the suffocating fake atmosphere of social insecurities and nonrunning cars is nobody other than the boost ragin' rotatin' feelin hurtin' v8 draggin' sequential 17V no limit intercontinental ballistic sriracha walrus fouRE rotor take no prisoner master of real news, David Monsterbox Mazzei. He's on that storage unit grind and he's coming in hot so you better batten down the hatches, sinch up your skinnies and prepare for blastoff. If you are fake news, full of it, easily offended or lame...you might not make it.
hahaha youre crazy as hell. I gotta come out to texas so we can go mexico racing
12-21-17, 09:38 AM
#1385
60-110mph, 1.7 seconds 3rd gear
80-150mph, 4.304 seconds 4th gear
13.5 psi boost trailing to 13psi at 8k-8800rpm
To give you an idea of how retarded this is, a hellcat cuts a 60-130mph in 7.6 seconds
According to vehicle simulation mode on the mustang dyno, which increases eddy current resistance according to wheel speed to account for estimated wind resistance
Next week, moving back to the 1.58AR or possibly ordering a 1.45AR housing, and rerouting the 3 port controller so that the vent port becomes the feed line to the bottom of the gates. This will allow the 3 port to modulate the airflow to the bottom of the gate to the top hat of the gate, thereby removing the signal as it increases top hat pressure. Should be able to gain a bunch of duty cycle on the controller so we can hit 18-20psi and see if we can push it over 1000hp on this small turbo. Then, ultimately, turn it back down to around 14.5-15.5 psi, but hold it to 9100rpm giving a top speed in 3rd gear of 132mph on 26.5in tires. The 1.32AR lights up this 80mm turbo at 4k rpm, almost immediately, so I'd like to leave it. Would be off-the-chain to get the hit at 4k in 3rd with blistering boost all the way to 9100. Fat power band for the win. Though the EBP is pretty high over 8k causing boost to trail, and a hell of a ramp being needed by the controller. The 1.58 moves it out to 6k spool up. But either way, will just have to play with this thing a little. From here we just need to set up the traction control, and potentially step up for the larger 25 GPH nozzle for additional safety, then tune the boost curve on the street for 2nd, 3rd, and 4th individually. While we are getting close to maxing out the turbine, there is still tons of timing left in it. Running 13-14* at peak torque with 10 degree split. Would like to play with an additional 2-3 degree's at 1bar while watching EGT when we get more dyno time. Could be another 50-100hp just in timing. After this, I'll install a strain gauge to the remaining AVI input so that 3 to 4 can be done w/ foot on the accelerator and no clutch. Then its time to meet up with Nelson Siverio in Houston for some texas 2k action *****! Need to get this animal to cut sub 3 second 70-130mph and do it all in 1 gear. I feel like it MIGHT be doable, but we need gps tracking to measure, so that it's not based on wheel speed in logs. Should put the car on par with the 1200hp lambos
Notes from dyno on the setup:
-Never needed more than 2 fuel pumps, 3rd just sat there as a reserve. Even set the base pressure at 50psi for ***** n giggle, and it held to 64psi, with less than a 1/4psi margin of error
-Not a single hint of ignition break-up after it crossed 11.1 AFR
-Once it crossed 11.1AFR and cleaned up the ignition, the bouncy AFR wideband logs turned into absolutely wicked smooth curve, which matches that target within 0.1 AFR point
HALTECH FOR THE WIN.
80-150mph, 4.304 seconds 4th gear
13.5 psi boost trailing to 13psi at 8k-8800rpm
To give you an idea of how retarded this is, a hellcat cuts a 60-130mph in 7.6 seconds
According to vehicle simulation mode on the mustang dyno, which increases eddy current resistance according to wheel speed to account for estimated wind resistance
Next week, moving back to the 1.58AR or possibly ordering a 1.45AR housing, and rerouting the 3 port controller so that the vent port becomes the feed line to the bottom of the gates. This will allow the 3 port to modulate the airflow to the bottom of the gate to the top hat of the gate, thereby removing the signal as it increases top hat pressure. Should be able to gain a bunch of duty cycle on the controller so we can hit 18-20psi and see if we can push it over 1000hp on this small turbo. Then, ultimately, turn it back down to around 14.5-15.5 psi, but hold it to 9100rpm giving a top speed in 3rd gear of 132mph on 26.5in tires. The 1.32AR lights up this 80mm turbo at 4k rpm, almost immediately, so I'd like to leave it. Would be off-the-chain to get the hit at 4k in 3rd with blistering boost all the way to 9100. Fat power band for the win. Though the EBP is pretty high over 8k causing boost to trail, and a hell of a ramp being needed by the controller. The 1.58 moves it out to 6k spool up. But either way, will just have to play with this thing a little. From here we just need to set up the traction control, and potentially step up for the larger 25 GPH nozzle for additional safety, then tune the boost curve on the street for 2nd, 3rd, and 4th individually. While we are getting close to maxing out the turbine, there is still tons of timing left in it. Running 13-14* at peak torque with 10 degree split. Would like to play with an additional 2-3 degree's at 1bar while watching EGT when we get more dyno time. Could be another 50-100hp just in timing. After this, I'll install a strain gauge to the remaining AVI input so that 3 to 4 can be done w/ foot on the accelerator and no clutch. Then its time to meet up with Nelson Siverio in Houston for some texas 2k action *****! Need to get this animal to cut sub 3 second 70-130mph and do it all in 1 gear. I feel like it MIGHT be doable, but we need gps tracking to measure, so that it's not based on wheel speed in logs. Should put the car on par with the 1200hp lambos
Notes from dyno on the setup:
-Never needed more than 2 fuel pumps, 3rd just sat there as a reserve. Even set the base pressure at 50psi for ***** n giggle, and it held to 64psi, with less than a 1/4psi margin of error
-Not a single hint of ignition break-up after it crossed 11.1 AFR
-Once it crossed 11.1AFR and cleaned up the ignition, the bouncy AFR wideband logs turned into absolutely wicked smooth curve, which matches that target within 0.1 AFR point
HALTECH FOR THE WIN.
Last edited by Monsterbox; 12-21-17 at 09:54 AM.
12-21-17, 05:03 PM
#1387
Buddy of mine is literally begging Par-Engineering to take his order for a gearset, but they keep dragging their feet on their end. Just curious if you went through the same thing? Might be a holiday thing, but they never mentioned anything and know an order is pending. Some companies don’t often seem to get why they aren’t operating to potential. Being in sales myself a purchasing customer is king.
01-02-18, 02:14 PM
#1389
New Year and time for more crazy sh*t
1. 4" inch cut-out on way. Time for 5 inch downpipe and cutout. Decision is either fender exit, hood exit, or dump it under the subframe. Would like to dump it down under, next to trans/subframe but afraid of the fire hazard. Going to talk to more people and decide soon enough.
2. finally got the detent springs in, and shifting w/ out clutch. Just pull on the shifter like you're trying to break it off, soon as you let off the throttle wham, the motherf*cker shifts faster than the brain can keep up. Should have done this earlier than later lol. Now it's a matter of not losing traction when going back on the throttle. Assuming this hold's up, definitely worth every penney and huge savings over a "real" racing transmission
3. waiting on cold temps to warm up a little outside, then we're gonna throw the 4 port controller back on, with the 5 inch downpipe and turn up to 16psi. Would like to see if EGT come down 100-200F before turning up. I'd like to see high 1600's before turning up on pump gas + meth. I think we've effectively eliminated the flutter, by running a higher spring pressure. 4 port won't be acting as much, just overcome the backpressure a tad bit on top end without having to run larger exhaust housing. Goal is to murder sh*t by keeping it spooling at 4.5k rpm and pull to 9500. This should allow 60-70mph speed limit hits on interstate, with 130mph top end all in 3rd gear, with boost the entire time. The only chance at jumping on lambos who will have to shift. I've noticed the high rpm coupled with long gearing seem's to be the big effect that gives that popular MR2 the killer advantage on the roll races
4. Get back out on the street and start datalogging and tuning for the load changes on the road. Use the 4 port to bring boost up or down in lower gears depending on wheel slip. Then finally turn on the traction control. Its like 12F here. Can't do anything.
5. order some full racing slick pirelli track tires for the rear
6. texas
1. 4" inch cut-out on way. Time for 5 inch downpipe and cutout. Decision is either fender exit, hood exit, or dump it under the subframe. Would like to dump it down under, next to trans/subframe but afraid of the fire hazard. Going to talk to more people and decide soon enough.
2. finally got the detent springs in, and shifting w/ out clutch. Just pull on the shifter like you're trying to break it off, soon as you let off the throttle wham, the motherf*cker shifts faster than the brain can keep up. Should have done this earlier than later lol. Now it's a matter of not losing traction when going back on the throttle. Assuming this hold's up, definitely worth every penney and huge savings over a "real" racing transmission
3. waiting on cold temps to warm up a little outside, then we're gonna throw the 4 port controller back on, with the 5 inch downpipe and turn up to 16psi. Would like to see if EGT come down 100-200F before turning up. I'd like to see high 1600's before turning up on pump gas + meth. I think we've effectively eliminated the flutter, by running a higher spring pressure. 4 port won't be acting as much, just overcome the backpressure a tad bit on top end without having to run larger exhaust housing. Goal is to murder sh*t by keeping it spooling at 4.5k rpm and pull to 9500. This should allow 60-70mph speed limit hits on interstate, with 130mph top end all in 3rd gear, with boost the entire time. The only chance at jumping on lambos who will have to shift. I've noticed the high rpm coupled with long gearing seem's to be the big effect that gives that popular MR2 the killer advantage on the roll races
4. Get back out on the street and start datalogging and tuning for the load changes on the road. Use the 4 port to bring boost up or down in lower gears depending on wheel slip. Then finally turn on the traction control. Its like 12F here. Can't do anything.
5. order some full racing slick pirelli track tires for the rear
6. texas
Last edited by Monsterbox; 01-02-18 at 02:27 PM.
01-02-18, 02:18 PM
#1390
Buddy of mine is literally begging Par-Engineering to take his order for a gearset, but they keep dragging their feet on their end. Just curious if you went through the same thing? Might be a holiday thing, but they never mentioned anything and know an order is pending. Some companies don’t often seem to get why they aren’t operating to potential. Being in sales myself a purchasing customer is king.
02-05-18, 11:37 PM
#1395
Time for an update.
So the engine was running mint. Fired right up. Tons of power, finally running top notch. However, it kept bothering me that the logs always showed egt #3 and #4 were 200f less than 1 and 2 at low load. I decided it would be a wise idea to compression check the engine. So out comes the rotary tester. Turns out that rotors 3 and 4 were down on compression as compared to 1 and 2. However all 4 were under 100psi. While numbers were low, every face was perfectly even. In effort to understand what could have gone wrong, I decided it would be wise to pull the motor and have it torn down by my good friend Zachariah Richardson. He initially pressure tested the coolant system and found that all 4 pports were leaking externally. Then after pulling apart the block, we found that all the apex seals were very slightly warped, with the back being worse then the front. Housings, bearings, irons, and all seals and e shaft look brand new. Surprisingly, the side seals were not clearanced for high rpm and check out to oem tolerance, and the crank had no end play, but luckily no damage. After much research and discussion, the conclusion is that the engine may have been too lean under cruising a high rpm which allowed egt to become excessive over time and warp the seals, and or, the back pressure from the turbine was allowing the hot exhaust to revert back through the intake under boost while high duty cycles were used to hold the gates shut. Either way, there really is no conclusive evidence. All we know is that the seals became to hot. I can' find any events of knock in logs and engine has always ran the same, so it' hard to say when or where it occurred. It may very well have been on the old manifold when the boost was spiking. Or I could have damaged the seals in break in on base map from running too lean at high rpm. It' also possible that coolant delta t was too low by time coolant reached rear plugs, and allowed housings to deform.
Anyhow, I'm very pleased with the fact that engine looks great internally and thankful for all the people that have helped. This is just a big project and when you try new things you go through trial and error. A minor error for a big trial.
So, to fix it, were going to throw everything at her.
1. Fresh rebuild, new seals
2. External water feeds to the rear housing spark plugs areas.
3. Larger radiator
4. Massive planet sized turbocharger to reduce back pressure to nearly 1:1
5. Increase oil pressure another 10psi, and delete internal pump
6. Use opportunity to tighty up the engine bay again.
7. Have pports remachined by Chip Ursu with his amazing cnc no leak design
and on plus side, this explains why the car would misfire in the 10.5s are. If rear rotors were down on compression the entire time, and air fuel ratio is an average of all 4, then it's highly probable that rotors 3 and 4 were seeing below a 10.0 while 1 and 2 were in the 11s.
More stoked then ever to learn from this and get back to running and shoot for that 4 digit horsepower!
as always thanks for following!
today the New Gen2 GTX5533R 94mm arrived!
So the engine was running mint. Fired right up. Tons of power, finally running top notch. However, it kept bothering me that the logs always showed egt #3 and #4 were 200f less than 1 and 2 at low load. I decided it would be a wise idea to compression check the engine. So out comes the rotary tester. Turns out that rotors 3 and 4 were down on compression as compared to 1 and 2. However all 4 were under 100psi. While numbers were low, every face was perfectly even. In effort to understand what could have gone wrong, I decided it would be wise to pull the motor and have it torn down by my good friend Zachariah Richardson. He initially pressure tested the coolant system and found that all 4 pports were leaking externally. Then after pulling apart the block, we found that all the apex seals were very slightly warped, with the back being worse then the front. Housings, bearings, irons, and all seals and e shaft look brand new. Surprisingly, the side seals were not clearanced for high rpm and check out to oem tolerance, and the crank had no end play, but luckily no damage. After much research and discussion, the conclusion is that the engine may have been too lean under cruising a high rpm which allowed egt to become excessive over time and warp the seals, and or, the back pressure from the turbine was allowing the hot exhaust to revert back through the intake under boost while high duty cycles were used to hold the gates shut. Either way, there really is no conclusive evidence. All we know is that the seals became to hot. I can' find any events of knock in logs and engine has always ran the same, so it' hard to say when or where it occurred. It may very well have been on the old manifold when the boost was spiking. Or I could have damaged the seals in break in on base map from running too lean at high rpm. It' also possible that coolant delta t was too low by time coolant reached rear plugs, and allowed housings to deform.
Anyhow, I'm very pleased with the fact that engine looks great internally and thankful for all the people that have helped. This is just a big project and when you try new things you go through trial and error. A minor error for a big trial.
So, to fix it, were going to throw everything at her.
1. Fresh rebuild, new seals
2. External water feeds to the rear housing spark plugs areas.
3. Larger radiator
4. Massive planet sized turbocharger to reduce back pressure to nearly 1:1
5. Increase oil pressure another 10psi, and delete internal pump
6. Use opportunity to tighty up the engine bay again.
7. Have pports remachined by Chip Ursu with his amazing cnc no leak design
and on plus side, this explains why the car would misfire in the 10.5s are. If rear rotors were down on compression the entire time, and air fuel ratio is an average of all 4, then it's highly probable that rotors 3 and 4 were seeing below a 10.0 while 1 and 2 were in the 11s.
More stoked then ever to learn from this and get back to running and shoot for that 4 digit horsepower!
as always thanks for following!
today the New Gen2 GTX5533R 94mm arrived!
Last edited by Monsterbox; 02-05-18 at 11:40 PM.
02-06-18, 10:02 PM
#1397
Rotary Enthusiast
bro, check the 2nd line on the text wall he posted above lol.
Kinda sucks about compression issues. However, this falls perfectly in line with the rest of your build. Aka pay good money for **** that should be done right/ work right out of the box but doesn’t. So now you get to fix it.
Kinda sucks about compression issues. However, this falls perfectly in line with the rest of your build. Aka pay good money for **** that should be done right/ work right out of the box but doesn’t. So now you get to fix it.
02-06-18, 10:44 PM
#1398
Soooo sick. About time someone figured out an alternative to epoxy.
Oh, and if you don't subscriber to Chips Motorsports on YouTube, it's a nice rabbit hole to fall down:
https://www.youtube.com/c/chipsmotorsportsllc
Last edited by MattGold; 02-06-18 at 10:47 PM.
02-07-18, 06:11 AM
#1399
Yes, sadly the engine was built poorly. Today after cleaning the parts, Zachariah was able to see that the rotors were lightly rubbing the plates. Turns out none of the rotors were clearanced or lightened. A good friend of mine now in New Zealand, Mad-Max (not mad mike), He called the top shop in NZ to inquire if they balanced this engine, and new nothing about it. So now we're skeptical if it has been balanced. I' having the rotors shipped to Chip so that he can clearance, balance, and lighten the rotors. I'm also having the lobe angles of the eccentric shaft checked and the run out.
Either way, whether it was tuning or not that lowered the compression, this engine would have toasted itself from leaking pports and the rotor clearance. I'm thankful this happened now and we had a reason to tear it down!
I can' really get anything warrantied. The guy who worked there when I bought the package quit. At this point I just wanna stay positive, don't have the effort to fight over it.
Zachariah Richardson is a great guy and close attention to detail. I'v been fortunate enough to have suggestions/help from Abel Ibbrah and Carlos Lopez. Going to take all that has been discovered and new info I've learned and do this the way it should have been done.
thanks guys!
Either way, whether it was tuning or not that lowered the compression, this engine would have toasted itself from leaking pports and the rotor clearance. I'm thankful this happened now and we had a reason to tear it down!
I can' really get anything warrantied. The guy who worked there when I bought the package quit. At this point I just wanna stay positive, don't have the effort to fight over it.
Zachariah Richardson is a great guy and close attention to detail. I'v been fortunate enough to have suggestions/help from Abel Ibbrah and Carlos Lopez. Going to take all that has been discovered and new info I've learned and do this the way it should have been done.
thanks guys!
02-07-18, 06:43 AM
#1400
Should have stayed 3-rotor 
you cant get parts warrantied because a former worker quit? What was he an independent contractor?
Talk to an attorney, but thinking back to when you ranted before about things (one of your several deleted posts after the fact)...do you have proof you sent money for an engine? Like anything that indicates you spent 35k for an engine to be built? Or is it just a wire transfer to a shady *** company that uses a former employee as a scapegoat?
Just my thoughts...
-Nick
you cant get parts warrantied because a former worker quit? What was he an independent contractor?
Talk to an attorney, but thinking back to when you ranted before about things (one of your several deleted posts after the fact)...do you have proof you sent money for an engine? Like anything that indicates you spent 35k for an engine to be built? Or is it just a wire transfer to a shady *** company that uses a former employee as a scapegoat?
Just my thoughts...
-Nick
Last edited by Broke_A_Baller; 02-07-18 at 07:17 AM.