When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
^^ Yeah, if you pull too hard/fast on the Ikeya formula it just skips a tooth on the drum/windlass latch mechanism.
That protects a synchro trans to some extent where smooth, deliberate shifts are required or you will break a synchro.
You may be able to strengthen the latching spring pressure so it doesn't skip over the top of the drum/windlass teeth. You may be able to remove some shift fork detent pressure as well as is shown in the Sequenshifter manual. There is a LOT of adjustments that have to be fine tuned to get the Sequenshifter working smoothly.
You can find the manual online if you don't have a copy and with these tips the adjustments start to make sense-
Thank you for the tips. Off hand, it would seem to me that the dog box would make it easier to shift/smoother/less effort, since you won't have any resistance from synchro going into gear, but I could be wrong, I've never driven one, maybe they do take more pressure
I'll try my best to get it working before selling it
You might have issues with the Ikeya shifter, one of the guys in Australia couldn't get enough leverage to shift a Albins dog gear set.
Off hand, it would seem to me that the dog box would make it easier to shift/smoother/less effort, since you won't have any resistance from synchro going into gear, but I could be wrong, I've never driven one, maybe they do take more pressure
Right, I think "leverage" is a misconception on somebody's part.
It is a quirk of the Ikeya shifter that when you try to shift it very hard/fast the latch can skate over the top of the windlass/drum teeth instead of grabbing one. I think it is because Ikeya used a single gear on the drum for up and down shifts instead of a separate gear for up and another for down with a back-cut tooth profile to pull the latch into meshing with the gear.
When the latch doesn't skate over the top of the windlass/drum on a hard/fast shift on the stock synchro transmission plenty of owners have found there is enough leverage with the Ikeya shifter to totally **** your transmission.
If you just play with the Ikeya shifter when you get it you will come to understand how it works.
People have gotten the Ikeya shifter to work with a dog gear set in a stock gearbox. Here is the S15 6 speed which uses a VERY similar design as the FD Ikeya shifter. The Evo Ikeya shifter looks to be a different design, but it appears to be quite common to use that one with with dog gear internals.
Thank you for the tips. Off hand, it would seem to me that the dog box would make it easier to shift/smoother/less effort, since you won't have any resistance from synchro going into gear, but I could be wrong, I've never driven one, maybe they do take more pressure
I'll try my best to get it working before selling it
Basically, dog boxes require that you SHIFT WITH A PURPOSE. No limp-wristed shifts like you might make with a synchromesh.
OTOH, you don't need to use the clutch.
Honestly I wouldn't bother with a jury-rigged piece of hardware like the Ikeya Formula shifter. If Aryton Senna could work an H-pattern shifter, you can too.
I got it for less than half the retail price, its just a matter of seeing if there can be a $6k dollar sequential transmission, for damn near the cost of the t56 and third the cost of the HGT, just for fun. If it doesn't work it doesn't work lol. Maybe someone on forums would like it for their FD. It would be nice in stock transmission to make sure you don't miss gear, if you're drag racing
^^ Exactly. That is what has me dreaming of trying the Ikeya + Liberty faceplate. That is a combined $3000 sequential trans where you just have to dip the clutch between fast, clean shifts.
Previously I was pondering the "slick shift" mod on stock trans which is free, but a lot of work and maintenance.
Ikeya shifter has garnered a ton of hate online because people expect it to make a stock transmission a clutchless sequential racing gearbox. Well, no.
It is just meant as a racer aid like a race seat or harness to make life a little easier to make you faster.
You won't miss 3rd and grab 5th, you won't downshift two gears too far, you don't have to remember or feel for what gear you are in as you reach for the shifter when your tires are spinning so rpm doesn't correspond to vehicle speed (you either downshift or upshift) and it puts the shifter closer to the steering wheel.
Let me be first in line for the Ikeya shifter if you sell it. Might need spares!
Thanks BLUETII I hope you can find one! Will definitely keep you updated on it!
So just waiting on the shop to work my car in to fab up a bracket for the coils and relocate the catch can. Hopefully done in the next week or so, and I'll drive the rx7 up to the transmission shop and swap it out on his lift, and hopefully drive it home!
12psi springs are on the way for the gates, and moving to a 3 port boost controller. Also found the 1.32AR housing, going to slap it on to see if we can spool a little snappier and not lose top end power.
Thanks to my friend Cameron who works at speedsouth now for building this bracket. Cody Guldstrand harness. 10.5mm Taylor Pro wires. Tight trying to fit 8 of these in an rx7 engine bay, while looking sleek. But accessibility is on point, to sparkplugs and to the coil wires on both primary and secondary sides.
Big upgrade from the LS coils. 100amp relay to the harness, 4ga power wire off the starter/alternator. Firing up soon.
Why 100 amp relay? The wires on each coil don €™t take that much. Is it because the coils are drawing power in overlap as they charge?
YesI feel like its way overkill but at high dwell time, and in case of power being drawn in overlap, I wanted to be sure there would be more than enough supply. The relay allows 4 ga power in/out, to minimize voltage drop. We also forced 12 gauge wires into the clips for the power and grounds upsized from the 14ga hole/pins. The designer, Pantera EFI recommended 40amp relay/fuse for every 4 coils
The designer, Pantera EFI recommended 40amp relay/fuse for every 4 coils
Curious to see what dwell you are using, the below is what was agreed upon as safe by LMS in another thread. I also believe a 20 amp relay/fuse is the standard/told to use for 4 coils, big departure, I've heard you can lean harder on the coils, and is your use of 100Amps relay/fuse because of this?.
Curious to see what dwell you are using, the below is what was agreed upon as safe by LMS in another thread. I also believe a 20 amp relay/fuse is the standard/told to use for 4 coils, big departure, I've heard you can lean harder on the coils, and is your use of 100Amps relay/fuse because of this?.
My old thread!
I've since changed my theory on dwell settings and run something completely different than these. While these tables will keep you near the max dwell you can always be running, it isn't necessary and you shorten your high duty cycle duration since the coils are sitting there cranking out 6ms of dwell at cruise when not needed
I haven't decided what to run on the dwell times yet. The car is putting out 17 volts to these coils, so dwell will not have to be ran quite as high to get the same spark output per millisecond.
I will likely setup a chart in the Haltech here shortly and run 3.5ms below 0psi, and 5ms in boost, rather than having the dwell RPM dependent. This will give the coils a break on decel, cruise, etc at higher rpms, and only lean on the coils during load
Real News shifter has arrived. The problem is its slanted towards RHD. Going to take it down to Walker Morgan to have the handle plate sliced and welded the other direction
It does look different than most of the FD3S models. I'm 99% certain its an earlier model, pre 2007. Bolted right up today on the stock transmission and performed flawlessly, no adjustments. In fact, I don't see the adjustment screws it refers to in that manual link. You have to use a good bit of force, but it pops right through reverse, 1, 2, 3, no grinds no jumping out etc. I didn't have a chance to get up to 4th and 5th and pulled it back out to take it to have the shifter modified to move it towards LHD. Going to remove the entire plate and have it cut and rewelded the opposite direction. I have a feeling it will work great on the dog box, with much less effort
Dropped the shifter off yesterday at fabricator. Really easy to disassemble the handle. It will be cut, and welded towards the LHD driver. Tomorrow I plan to install the gearbox. Car runs and drives so much snappier on the new coils. Revs so clean and idles so much harder / choppy. The best way I can explain it is its more responsive to the throttle and pulls more vaccuum
Thanks for all of those that follow this thead. Quickly approaching 200k views in under 2 years. Good to see activity on forums, as the social media stuff has taken alot away from these type of sites. Will continue to update.
Water injection parts are nearly here. Going to run a 200psi AEM pump, with a 2 gallon tank, and 1600cc into compressor outlet with WWF. 12lb gate springs have arrived, 3 port controller for experimentation, and 1.32 ar hot side
A lot to do, but hopefully we are getting closer to the end of the tunnel. Start to feel confident about the setup now especially with the transmission being ready. This will make it alot less scary during tuning/driving under high load. At some point I need to get around to doing axle half shafts and front brakes and maybe stiffer springs better struts
Hoping to see full boost now around 1k rpm earlier and snappier, and with the water injection safely run 14-15psi on the street with safeguard and maybe try to max the turbo out at 15-20+psi for fun on the dyno
When you're doing something that involves much time, risk, and effort, never listen to the naysayers. Can't count how many times this car has been criticized for videos only revving or light throttle. Slow and steady always wins in the end. One step at a time, never rushing into it.
Car runs and drives so much snappier on the new coils. Revs so clean and idles so much harder / choppy. The best way I can explain it is its more responsive to the throttle and pulls more vaccuum
I am curious why the car need such a beefy ignition system? Was it because of the peripheral ports? Or because you have double the rotors?
Would a two-rotor car on stock ports benefit for something like this?
When you're doing something that involves much time, risk, and effort, never listen to the naysayers. Can't count how many times this car has been criticized for videos only revving or light throttle. Slow and steady always wins in the end. One step at a time, never rushing into it.
Now thats real.
People get all worked up over the base assembly process and specific this and that parts spec list they completely miss that 2/3+ of any HIGH performance BIG power build comes after the car runs. Anyone can buy parts and put them in a car, all it takes is money and jiffy lube level mechanical skills
but
really building, sorting, fixing, troubleshooting, designing and out engineering the complexities of a high power uniquely picky one of one performance machine that's known for self destruction...that's real drive
Car is badass man and its kickass to see real rotor soldiers out there pushing the limit
(as opposed to the car, or choking on cheeseburgerz)
I am curious why the car need such a beefy ignition system? Was it because of the peripheral ports? Or because you have double the rotors?
Would a two-rotor car on stock ports benefit for something like this?
The OEM rx7 ignition is pretty killer. Even though its wasted spark, I think it does a fine job of kicking ***. I ran one up to 550rwhp with water injection on stock ignition using just the HKS twin-power amplifier.
For the 4 rotor, can't use the OEM rx7 ignition coils easily. And running wasted spark on any aftermarket coil would probably be no better. So, direct fire is used on coils with built-in igniter. The D581, D585, D514a are all pretty beefy GM coils that can run in direct fire and seem to usually do the job well. But I think on the 4 rotor, with the high rpm, and the volume of additional fuel being wasted by the pport, spark energy is super important. The GM coils do a great job, and have a nice output, but that output cannot be sustained as the rpm's go beyond usual recharge range. This is why we begin to break up over 7.5k rpm. No matter what you do with the plugs, or the dwell, the coil just can't recharge fast enough as such an output, even in direct fire.
So, i'm hoping the IGN1a coils are up for the task. They produce considerably more output per MS of dwell time, and do not reach maximum duty cycle and overheat as early in dwell/rpm. However, only way to really find out is the dyno. It may eventually require CDI, though I would think the ign1a should be able to handle thetask
People get all worked up over the base assembly process and specific this and that parts spec list they completely miss that 2/3+ of any HIGH performance BIG power build comes after the car runs. Anyone can buy parts and put them in a car, all it takes is money and jiffy lube level mechanical skills
but
really building, sorting, fixing, troubleshooting, designing and out engineering the complexities of a high power uniquely picky one of one performance machine that's known for self destruction...that's real drive
Car is badass man and its kickass to see real rotor soldiers out there pushing the limit
(as opposed to the car, or choking on cheeseburgerz)
-Skeese
Thanks Skeese! Always appreciate input. Very excited to have seen your build come a long way and I know you'll be ripping on it shortly!
I guess they did away with embedded videos. Was going to upload one of the box finished and driving for break in.
Drives amazing. Insanely loud on throttle, quiet when cruising. I pull on the shifter, and soon as i let off the gas it hits the next gear before my brain even realizes it. Going to try the ikeya shifter next week.
Only issue is company scewed up the 5th gear ratio. Its the same as 4th. So need to get another 5th thats taller, and drop it rebuild it at some point. But right now who cares, you dont need 5th when you have 10k rpm
I guess they did away with embedded videos. Was going to upload one of the box finished and driving for break in.
Drives amazing. Insanely loud on throttle, quiet when cruising. I pull on the shifter, and soon as i let off the gas it hits the next gear before my brain even realizes it. Going to try the ikeya shifter next week.
Only issue is company scewed up the 5th gear ratio. Its the same as 4th. So need to get another 5th thats taller, and drop it rebuild it at some point. But right now who cares, you dont need 5th when you have 10k rpm
With a properly-ratioed fifth gear and 10K redline this car will probably go faster than it would be safe to go without a bit more development of the aerodynamics, tires/wheels, and body work.
10-02-17, 10:26 AM
