Going to watch and maybe sneak out for a lap at the end of the track day if they let us

 

cool. if you get on track you better take video. you don't want to be crucified by rx7club.

 

I remembered that one big building at the start of the clip.

I only get home to the states once a year and I'm actually from lower alabama, so probably not. It's actually been about eight years since the last time I was there.

 

Do you tell everyone that you are from L.A.? Then break it to them it stands for Lower Alabama?

 

I know people who do that, but I have yet to do so. Haha.

 

holy sh*t lmao

 

Now its just getting silly lol

 

3 fuel pumps is ridiculous

how many and what size injectors are you running? couldnt find any info in the thread

also what kinda base fuel pressure are you running?

thanks

 

Geez this thing is out of this world. Following this bad boy.

 

Thanks guys!

2000cc secondaries 4x, and 1000cc primaries 4x

Gordon, I just never think to get any quality videos just driving, been so busy getting it set-up. But soon will get some good stuff. Need to throw the go-pro on soon. Thanks!

 

 

Yes sir, we do have a slight drop over 5k rpm under boost from voltage,but its not to severe. Still though, the car needs a larger alternator. Been looking at the 200amp excessive amperage unit now for a good while. Might be time to upgrade soon

 

Good! It's amazing how much load those electrical fans put on the system. 3 fuel pumps as well.

 

once you have vehicle speed input to the ECU, you can disable the radiator fans above 50mph. I haven't had heating issues with this. my fans pull 46amp each, so it had to be done.

 

thats a great idea. i've actually them setup through the water pump controller, which also triggers the relay for fans. Buts really not a bad idea, to make sure they're off during a pull. Or hell, maybe could setup the DPO condition to disarm fans IF aux fuel pump DPO is active.

Btw, I just hooked up the abs speed sensor up front. Just need to the calibration to MPH. I've got it assigned in the traction control. Can't wait to see how it does. I hope it works out like your experience. I can't imagine WOT 1st gear and putting it all down.

This haltech is so kickass man. Staging the pumps so easily. I'm glad its working out for you too. The three pumps definitely draw a ton of amperage though.

 

The answer for more electrical power...

 

You are suggesting this?

 

you'll absolutely love it man. you don't need yaw or lateral g sensor for most of what you want for now. you can always add them later. I love my TCS so much that I just permanently grounded the tcs switch to the chassis. I personally see no need to turn it off unless you want to drift or do burn-outs. hell, I could even do short burn outs because I configured mine to activate only when the rear wheels are reading higher than 25mph. For me, more so than making the car faster, much more importantly, it makes the car safer. I have been learning that ignition mediated traction control does mess with your closed loop o2 control when it's kicking in alot. there isn't way to deactivate closed loop temporarily with ignition retard/cut, so I'm trying to set up closed loop boost control to minimize tcs activation so my afr stays solid. unfortunately I'm having some trouble with closed loop boost control with my 4 port. i think my 10 psi spring is too heavy for 13psi target boost w/ 4 port. the duty cycle is too low for the 4 port even @ 10-15 hz and I think I have to drop the spring rate to apply respectable duty cycle for decent boost control. what springs are you running on your wg's?

i think you'll be OK with the 3rd fuel pump voltage/current wise. the 2nd and 3rd stage pumps will probably be on for a few seconds at the most anyway. just draw the relay power wire straight from the battery and i think they will be fine.

yea speed-switch for radiator fans works quite well. just remember to turn the option off during the dyno or if you plan on drifting sideway alot lol. i wouldn't worry about it if you don't have voltage issues though. especially if it's already wired into your beautiful harness that way, I can't think of a nice way to re-configure it. if the voltage drop is significant enough to cause any issues, you may just have to just lay a couple new dpo or stepper wires on top of your existing harness from the ecu to the relays for radiator fan control. deactivating them helps to keep the voltage steady at 13v or whatever your alternator output is.

having been a huge fan of microtech over the years and a loud verbal supporter of it on this forum I am ashamed to say after having owned haltech elite for a year, microtech is just a pure piece of garbage that sucks donkey dick. i feel I should count my lucky stars that I didn't blow my engine with no logging or engine protection. it's amazing how many lean AFR conditions I encounter with normal spirited driving looking at the log.

 

Thanks to Cade Garrett for shooting this car for the upcoming feature and to Bryan Longshot Leonard with Speedsouth for allowing us full access to Barber Motorsports. Hopefully we can share the real photos soon

 

https://www.facebook.com/theCarPorn/videos/1118339981605664/
A lady Porsche driver asked if we could rev the car for her friend, then we found this later haha. Still trying to figure out where these pages come up with their horsepower figures. Hopefully some more vids coming up soon cruising and on the track


Third pump install is complete. Works great, no longer dropping fuel pressure, but the voltage draw is pretty intense. Although its not too worrisome as the pumps are staged, I think it still may be time for a 200amp alternator upgrade. Really have been thinking about moving up to a 14v battery with a 16v regulated alternator, any thoughts? Ordering the AEM smart coils this week and then off to build a harness w/ direct power. Plan is to get back on the dyno at the end of this month see if we can finish her out at 15psi on pump gas!

 

I guess using a smaller alternator pulley wouldn't solve any problems?

Seems like you have plenty of horsepower to go around, so you wouldn't miss any losses from spinning the alternator a little faster.

 

I'm sitting here wondering why don't you just go with the Aeromotive belt driven pump? I use it on my 2 rotor knowing I'll never need more flow than it provides. Way more reliable than running multiple electric pumps and would prevent you needing to upgrade your electrical system too. Just a thought.. Love the car!

 

I'm sure I'll wind up there at some point ! Would need to find a way to mount it to the engine. There's such limited space it would require redoing charge piping/alternator position oil pump etc. Lesson learned I should have planned for it to begin with, but For now this is working great!!!!!

Thank you!

 

Engine is already idling very high, so alternator is spinning mighty fast, especially at 9k rpm. Its just an OEM output alternator. I was told it was "beefed up" by the supplier but from the looks of it, it doesn't seem to have been opened and came in a sealed OE box. So it may just be a little underwhelming amperage output for the amount of electronics on this thing. Voltage drops down to low 13's with all the accessories on, not terrible, but would love to see it above 14v for most of the time if possible! Excessive amperage makes a nice 200amp unit !

 

Two Alternators coming for the FD soon. One offered by SakeBomb Garage with 180A DC Power Engineering for around $600, and MINE a 270A variant with better internals and less AC ripple. Both are direct from DC Power Engineering (the best alternators on the planet).

That 3rd fuel pump is taxing the hell out of the rest of the car. Darn these money pits!