Kilo Racing 3 Rotor FD Conversion
07-16-09, 12:36 PM
#3001
I've heard some nightmares about CFT but as long as jesus is the one tunning the car and he is just there for their dyno then no worries. let me know when you heading down to pick it up i would love to check it out and maybe go for a spin.
warning signs, have you driven the car? i saw it at jesus and the car looks very nice, except for the way the swap was done. the engine sits like 3-4 inches back and it looks kinda weird.. other than that the car looks very clean.
warning signs, have you driven the car? i saw it at jesus and the car looks very nice, except for the way the swap was done. the engine sits like 3-4 inches back and it looks kinda weird.. other than that the car looks very clean.
07-16-09, 02:36 PM
#3002
bewtew... There are several ways of doing the swap. After the original problems with the first FD conversions were understood, a few cars were converted with the engine moved back as you say 3-4 or even 6 inches to clear the rack and allow the motor to sit much lower. Chris Carlisi's car, Phil Hamlin's, and a few Pettit cars were done this way. It was done to eliminate bumpsteer, lower the CG, clear the steering rack, and move the weight closer to the cockpit/center of the car. It meant the fabbing of a custom subframe, cutting the driveshaft and rebalancing, and dealing with the shifter moving back.
However, the result, when done well, is probably the "best" way to accomplish the conversion. Handling stays very close to stock or stock. Logan's solutions seem to address many of the same issues in a much, much less complex and costly manner and only give up a tad, if any, of the handling characteristics.
Point being, the car with the motor back and down is the right way to do it, if not the most common and if the most expensive...
Gordon
However, the result, when done well, is probably the "best" way to accomplish the conversion. Handling stays very close to stock or stock. Logan's solutions seem to address many of the same issues in a much, much less complex and costly manner and only give up a tad, if any, of the handling characteristics.
Point being, the car with the motor back and down is the right way to do it, if not the most common and if the most expensive...
Gordon
With the one at Kilo's it is going to need a bump steer correction kit at least as I understand it. Jesus was speaking to me about that while I was there on Tuesday. Isn't the someone on the forum that makes a bump steer kit now that doesn't require rewelding? I think I saw this at Gotham but I can't remember. It's a nice car though and pulls nice and hard under throttle, especially with the twins installed. Nice low end torque.
Mini Update: Success! The car now holds 14 PSI at low boost and 18 PSI at high. The car is street tuned now for both but unfortunately the dyno at CFT got taken out by a lightening strike yesterday so no dynoing for now. The two other dynos near Kilo are shut down for the rest of the week because the owners are driving to NJ for racing which is where Jesus is headed tomorrow night.
So, I am going to pick up the car tomorrow at 10 am-ish! Jesus has to replace the coolant sensor and he's taking apart the TPS to inspect because it is acting up periodically. He still has an alternator issue but we'll figure that out tomorrow. If he can't source one, I'm getting an upgraded one from Ihor. I'll go back next week to take it to the dyno.
07-16-09, 03:56 PM
#3003
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I've heard some nightmares about CFT but as long as jesus is the one tunning the car and he is just there for their dyno then no worries. let me know when you heading down to pick it up i would love to check it out and maybe go for a spin.
warning signs, have you driven the car? i saw it at jesus and the car looks very nice, except for the way the swap was done. the engine sits like 3-4 inches back and it looks kinda weird.. other than that the car looks very clean.
warning signs, have you driven the car? i saw it at jesus and the car looks very nice, except for the way the swap was done. the engine sits like 3-4 inches back and it looks kinda weird.. other than that the car looks very clean.
I did not drive the car, but was taken for a ride in it by Mark. Didn't want to spoil his fun after seeing/driving his car for the first time in a while. Everything seems to be in check with it, and yes I was told about the engine sitting back a few inches. Swap was done by Autotech in California as far as I know, and this is the way they prefer it over there. It's supposed to make the front/rear weight ratio more like stock. I haven't been able to verify it, but it shouldn't be a problem either way. I'll have plenty of time to drive it on the way back to my house. It's around 3 to 3 1/2 hours of driving south, turnpike the entire way. I will probably update with my own thread once I get it back here.
07-16-09, 03:59 PM
#3004
I did not drive the car, but was taken for a ride in it by Mark. Didn't want to spoil his fun after seeing/driving his car for the first time in a while. Everything seems to be in check with it, and yes I was told about the engine sitting back a few inches. Swap was done by Autotech in California as far as I know, and this is the way they prefer it over there. It's supposed to make the front/rear weight ratio more like stock. I haven't been able to verify it, but it shouldn't be a problem either way. I'll have plenty of time to drive it on the way back to my house. It's around 3 to 3 1/2 hours of driving south, turnpike the entire way. I will probably update with my own thread once I get it back here.
It is a 20B man, enjoy!
07-16-09, 04:42 PM
#3005
RAWR!!!!!!!!
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what next
So my question is David, once you get it, and it's like you want it (I won't say done so I don't jinx you) have any other plans for it, other than driving it?
07-16-09, 06:47 PM
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Hey, I'm Mark with the Red RX7 that warningsigns is about to buy, David you are correct in the fact that the engine position makes it a "little" more difficult to remove the UIM but other than that there seems to be no other issues. Got to say that the car runs a heck of a lot better since Jesus tuned it and fixed a couple vacuum leaks, it is a totally different car now.
07-16-09, 09:03 PM
#3008
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What ECU are you running?
Hey, I'm Mark with the Red RX7 that warningsigns is about to buy, David you are correct in the fact that the engine position makes it a "little" more difficult to remove the UIM but other than that there seems to be no other issues. Got to say that the car runs a heck of a lot better since Jesus tuned it and fixed a couple vacuum leaks, it is a totally different car now.
07-17-09, 05:13 AM
#3009
Hey, I'm Mark with the Red RX7 that warningsigns is about to buy, David you are correct in the fact that the engine position makes it a "little" more difficult to remove the UIM but other than that there seems to be no other issues. Got to say that the car runs a heck of a lot better since Jesus tuned it and fixed a couple vacuum leaks, it is a totally different car now.
07-17-09, 11:28 AM
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I don't think Jesus would work with anything less. I have a 13B 3rd gen with an AEM in it and Jesus has been telling me to change to Microtech on that one as well. :-) , maybe I'll bite the bullet and do it soon :-)
07-18-09, 05:07 PM
#3017
I am glad you got everything worked out with the 20B, David. Wish I could have seen it last weekend but I ended up getting that job in Atlanta so I am up here until the end of August. Then I am relocating to West Palm Beach! Hopefully my 20B swap will be done in 3-4 years.........
07-20-09, 01:48 AM
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Hello guys!
I own an FD with a full 20B conversion and a single turbonetics GTK 850 with microtech LTX-12. I have no one to Share the joy as well as any tech questions about the swap. I am a junior in this rx world so I have much to learn. I only wanted to verify the temp at which the car should be running at. Presently when it gets to 94C (degrees celsius) the fans kick in and stop until temp goes down to 88C.
Thank you guys for your help!!
Andrew Kanho
I own an FD with a full 20B conversion and a single turbonetics GTK 850 with microtech LTX-12. I have no one to Share the joy as well as any tech questions about the swap. I am a junior in this rx world so I have much to learn. I only wanted to verify the temp at which the car should be running at. Presently when it gets to 94C (degrees celsius) the fans kick in and stop until temp goes down to 88C.
Thank you guys for your help!!
Andrew Kanho
07-20-09, 05:46 AM
#3019
Hello guys!
I own an FD with a full 20B conversion and a single turbonetics GTK 850 with microtech LTX-12. I have no one to Share the joy as well as any tech questions about the swap. I am a junior in this rx world so I have much to learn. I only wanted to verify the temp at which the car should be running at. Presently when it gets to 94C (degrees celsius) the fans kick in and stop until temp goes down to 88C.
Thank you guys for your help!!
Andrew Kanho
I own an FD with a full 20B conversion and a single turbonetics GTK 850 with microtech LTX-12. I have no one to Share the joy as well as any tech questions about the swap. I am a junior in this rx world so I have much to learn. I only wanted to verify the temp at which the car should be running at. Presently when it gets to 94C (degrees celsius) the fans kick in and stop until temp goes down to 88C.
Thank you guys for your help!!
Andrew Kanho
07-20-09, 10:53 AM
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Thank you!! And yes it is the microtech that turns on the fans at 94C. I can even turn them on manually. By the way any of you gentlemen going to the Carlisi memorial??
07-20-09, 10:54 AM
#3021
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Hello guys!
I own an FD with a full 20B conversion and a single turbonetics GTK 850 with microtech LTX-12. I have no one to Share the joy as well as any tech questions about the swap. I am a junior in this rx world so I have much to learn. I only wanted to verify the temp at which the car should be running at. Presently when it gets to 94C (degrees celsius) the fans kick in and stop until temp goes down to 88C.
Thank you guys for your help!!
Andrew Kanho
I own an FD with a full 20B conversion and a single turbonetics GTK 850 with microtech LTX-12. I have no one to Share the joy as well as any tech questions about the swap. I am a junior in this rx world so I have much to learn. I only wanted to verify the temp at which the car should be running at. Presently when it gets to 94C (degrees celsius) the fans kick in and stop until temp goes down to 88C.
Thank you guys for your help!!
Andrew Kanho
07-20-09, 12:47 PM
#3022
As others have pointed out, I would set the fans to come on at 90c or so. Where I am having them come on at 85 would have them on all the time. Regarding the Carlisi event, maybe if it all works out. I'm trying to arrange for a trailer for the FD and I have a few appointments to reschedule so we'll see.
07-20-09, 02:28 PM
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As others have pointed out, I would set the fans to come on at 90c or so. Where I am having them come on at 85 would have them on all the time. Regarding the Carlisi event, maybe if it all works out. I'm trying to arrange for a trailer for the FD and I have a few appointments to reschedule so we'll see.
On another note, I wanted to know what is the best coolant that can be used for our engine and heat loads. I read on some posts something called Eduards if I'm not mistaken. Is there any thing special with the 20B to consider when bleading the coolant system? How many litters or gallons should I expect to consume? I plan to have 40/60 (antifreeze/distilled water) with a 3inch thick Koyo rad. Also, my set-up has the intercooler sitting in front then I have the rad behind it but sitting on a 45 degree angle with two 12 inch fans stuck to it. I have the plastic from the front bumper that runs all along the bottom of the engine bay all the way to the oil pan. I was thinking to add some vents on the platic at the bottom of the front end of the car right under the rad to force the air flow through it as I drive? Something small not to create some sort of lift of the hood. Is it a bad idea? I believe the best senario is V-Mount, but would my solution still be reliable?
Thanks guys!
07-20-09, 04:09 PM
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David,
Where are you hiding the control boxes for the PLX sensors? I currently have a DM-200 with only AFR displayed. Plan on adding egt's but was looking for a good idea on mounting and hiding the control boxes. Thanks
Brian
Where are you hiding the control boxes for the PLX sensors? I currently have a DM-200 with only AFR displayed. Plan on adding egt's but was looking for a good idea on mounting and hiding the control boxes. Thanks
Brian
07-20-09, 04:17 PM
#3025
Mine are located under the driver's side carpet. We cut out some of the foam under the carpet to install them so they all lie flat and they don't create a hump. At the time of the install, I had numerous other electrical devices in the bins so the bins were not available. The under the carpet location is fine just don't think it would be my first choice of a location.